altoncustomtech

sounds more like a bearing problem...... i guess it could be the differential but anytime i've heard a differential causing noise like that just changing the fluid wasn't going to do anything to fix it.... both of my van's front wheel bearings went out at almost the exact same time and my Jimmy had one bad when I bought it (the dealer graciously replaced it for me)...... so that would be my guess.... jack it up and grab the front wheel at the top and bottom and try rocking it in and out, if it moves enough to notice it ur wheel bearing is shot.....

These guys are right.... the only way to do any good is by filling the spaces and adding sound deadener of some kind be it dynamat, raaammat, SDS (Sound deadener showdown) or second skin.... The problem is any good solution will weigh the lid down.... you could always add those assist cylinders if it's a real problem...

unfortunately there's no way to get a 2 ohm load with 2 4 ohm DVC subwoofers.... all you can get is 16, 4, and 1 ohm loads.... sorry

Sound Quality is awfully subjective, biased so heavily by personal opinion from one person to the next, quality of installation, attention to detail, etc.... the best thing to do is start by giving your goals for the system, budget, etc.....

I'm expecting to have the same thing happen to me when I get my box done and my Q's installed.... They'll be a drastic change in sound to the Hifonics subs they're replacing and it will take awhile to get used to the difference...but VERY worth while!!!

Nah.... I'd say it just took your brain wahile to adjust..... it just takes while to get used to a drastic change.... The subwoofer is dumb.... it doesn't know anything and will play whatever frequency at whatever amplitude the amplifier gives it... while it is possible the suspension wasn't completely broken in when in the first box is plausible I'd still most likely say it just took you a little while to get used to the changes in the sound....

so... just out of idle curiosity..... is that an SSD motor?? diameter of slugs and bottom plate don't look big enough for the Q motor....

Parts express has an online calculator that will tell you what value of a capacitor you need for a given frequency.... try using that and buying a standard NON-POLARIZED cap, its the same thing as a bass blocker but even cheaper without the name on it.... plus you may be able to get the exact cutoff frequency you're wanting...

What kind of subwoofer is it? There's very few mainstream subs that don't give that information in either the model # or on the rear of the sub.... alot of the times the model # will have it included such as SWR-1222 (12" dual 2 ohm)..... otherwise subs like my Fi Q's have it written on the coil and it can be read through the vents above the magnet top plate....

Glad you decided to join, there's A LOT of great information available and plenty of knowledgable people around to help with the questions you'll have. Don't be affraid to ask either, just follow the forum rules and have a good time!

That's got to be one of the most original designs I've seen in awhile, but I like it.... For your first attempt it looks pretty decent actually, it wouldn't take much to finish it out to look as good as it seems to be working if ur getting 149 on a TL...... if that was on an AC it's still not shabby...... Everything is a trade off, best thing you can do is experiment and see what helps and what hurts but definitely you'll need to increase port or box size, the single 15 is a good idea as well, could help point you in the direction you need to go....

You could try this out..... It runs in Excel, fairly accurate, I built my box by it, 4.2 cu ft. after displacements, tuned to 32hz... initial tests show it works good, the box is sounding great and the cut sheets were right on.... Excel based Box Calculator

My guess is 896

To the best of my knowledge..... none. But then again getting a **.682" cut on a piece of mdf is impossible with any tools most people will have at home... whether you download the standard version or the version with the fractions already figured for you the measurements have to be rounded a few thousandths of an inch one way or the other to get to a usable fraction to measure and cut by...... any differences in the measurements will be negligible by most all respects..... the only difference will be any bracing you want to add and that you can add yourself to the subwoofer displacement if you can accurately figure what you'll be putting in although I plan on figuring out a way to standardize the bracing figures and have the ability to add it in as well.....

Had to change a couple of things so the links above won't work...... Click here for the one with the fractions: http://www.mediafire.com/file/y0odkgiimgo/Box Calculator - Fractions.xls And here for the standard one: http://www.mediafire.com/file/w3mymgzmhkd/Box Calculator.xls

I'm posting this up again....... THIS time heavily revised, it now has slot port calculations, and CUT SHEETS! This EXCEL based box calculator will take your enclosure size, woofer displacement, the wood thickness you plan on using and the frequency you wish to tune it to and gives you the GROSS enclosure size, dimensions (Including CUSTOM dimensions in which you input two of the OUTSIDE measurements and it gives you the last one.) PLUS gives you the cutout sizes for each panel of the enclosure you just asked for....... I'm putting it out for real world testing to be sure the math is good and the cuts are helpful......... Let me know ASAP what you think and what problems or improvements there should be...... And please remember this whole thing is in it's infancy, its ergonomic usability is a little askew at first but it doesn't take long to get used to it and once I know it's all good and working and usable for anyone I'll make an actual program out of it......... Thanks and enjoy!!! Here's the link: Box Calculator And here's the same program with fractions instead of decimals for those who hate to do that conversion, the only problem is that EXCEL will only do one type of fraction at a time so they're all in 16ths of an inch, just divide down for 8th's 4th's and halves.... Fractions Sheets

Just bumpin' the topic....

No, all the measurements are standard, it just shows the metric conversions so that the formula will work. It's the same formula that Vance Dickason uses, only his is designed for metric that's why all the conversions happen, also, it doesn't just give the port length it calculates the enclosure sizes with the port and driver displacements as well. And now it even figures for Slot ports.... =http://www.mediafire.com/file/nwj0o0mjuji/Box Calculator.xls=

Well, here we go, I've created this in an attempt to make a tool that can help take the guess work out of all the difficult to figure on a calculator values we constantly figure for box building. I think this is a decent tool and that it could work for alot of us. I'm putting it out here for all to try and give it some real world tests. Let me know if you guys find anything wrong with the sheet just let me know I'll do my best to fix it. So here ya go, we'll try this link out first just copy/paste: =http://www.mediafire.com/file/ugzuqj4mzjw/Box Calculator.xls=

I'm aware of this.... my question is related to the difference in the SQ of the subs when both are driven by the same amp at a low impedence such as 1 ohm such as the case is with my current amplifier, I'm not sure when I'll be able to purchase the new amps I was speaking about in the OP. The ohm load makes a difference in the damping of the amplifier and I'm wondering whether or not, with these subs, it's as critical as it would be with cheaper subs...... in a nutshell.

This question is directed to anyone who's willing to answer but it would be great to hear from Nick or Scott on this. I am currently powering my subwoofers with a Hifonics BXI2006D of which I'm not proud of at all. My current subwoofers consist of Hifonics Brutus BX12D2's having D2 voicecoils themselves I run them series parallel for a 2 ohm load on the amp with a supposed 1300RMS for the two which was supposed to be running them with 50wrms to spare (laughable right?). At any rate I'm ready to order my pair of 12Q's to replace the brutus subs and I"m torn between getting the D1 or D2 coils. I'm worried that powering the Q's at 1300 watts will result in less than desirable results (not as loud). I'm also worried about the same problem running this AMP at 1 ohm as well (too much distortion). I AM PLANNING on replacing the amp with two JBL GTO14001 amps running them @ 4 ohms for 1200 into each sub which should yield fantastic results. I would like to order the D2's in anticipation of this upgrade unless running amps such as the SAZ-2000D at 1 ohm has no detriment at all to SQ. I'm an SQ oriented listener who's slowly making my way to an awesome SQ setup with upgrades planned on my highs as well to ID CTX components and JBL amp for those. My worries may be unfounded but SQ is of utmost importance and I don't want to cause any more problems than I"ll already have with using the current amp for however long it takes to make the upgrade which could be a month or even a year. I thank you all in advance for your help in this matter, please no "get rid of that piece of crrap Hifonics" replys as I'm well aware of the CHEAPOSITY of the damn things, was when I upgraded to them and yes I said upgraded. (from Profile and Audiobahn)

Hello everyone, I'm new to this Forum. I've been on CA.COM for many years and am finally branching out. I live in SouthWest Indiana, have only one vehicle with a system installed as of right now. I built and installed everything in my 1998 Chevy Venture which has a Pioneer HU and Hifonics amps, Atlas components and Brutus subwoofers installed in it with the BIG 3, 250A HO alternator, RaamMat sound deadening, Optima battery and 1/0 wiring to the amp board. I'm hoping to be upgrading soon to an Eclipse HU, Morel Tempo components, FI Q subs, and Cadence TXA Amps.