altoncustomtech

Isn't CT Sounds owned by that "CTHEDINGER" guy? I remember lots of questions about the validity of the ratings on his products and I'm not talking just the amps. IMHO its hard for me to believe that the majority of the amps on the market, especially the big Multi-Kilowatt well over 1,500/2,000 watt ones, can actually produce the specified ratings without being deep into clipping/distortion. It just doesn't seem like there's enough to them to me. Of course I also remember the good 'ol days when 1K amps were the size of surfboards.

I hate to say it and I know it's harsh, but I don't care if the website says 10,000 @ 12.8. They can rate it anything they want to, that doesn't mean it's going to actually do it.

I'm going to get my jaw jacked for mentioning it, but I've been using a Soundstream Harmony for a couple months now and I love it. It's not as out and out powerful in options as the mDSP or any of the ones on the market that are based on it, but it does what I need just fine and I think it's great for ACTIVE setup beginners to learn on.

I don't think you have enough electrical backbone. That amp would probably have to have a solid 14+ volts to get anywhere near the 4k rating. Of course that's just a guess.

Don't get so hung up on the numbers. There's really no audible difference between the 1,100wrms @ 2 ohms of the SQ Q1-2200 and the 1400-1500 watts you're hoping to get from the Hifonics. More power is the LEAST efficient way to increase output. As Tirefryr mentioned, there's got to be plenty of amps that will do the power you need for the budget you've set, however, you might be able to find something really great to run it with USED for that price or less.

to the forum!!

Swift, Sencheezy, Porkchop and other associated Team IAK members are about the closest forum members. In Senchez's case I'm not sure he'd be able to make the time to come up this far or risk his equipment for a show that won't earn him any points. It's a long way to go and a small crowd just to demo for no matter who it is. If you were the only one to show up I'll be more than happy since I really am not expecting anyone to show up. I'm going to try to get another couple of shows put together for next year and hopefully the notion that an SPL meter will be available will draw some extra folks in. Then perhaps in time we can get the event(s) sanctioned with one of the organizations. The people who are interested in this stuff are around here, it's just getting them to realize there's more to it than waking the neighbors up after midnight with their systems bumping.

to the forum!

Welcome back! I still have that design too, lol. If you need another just let me know. BTW, I agree with Sean's recommendations.

Yes sir, that is the correct city and zip code. Would be great to see you there!!

To the best of my knowledge there's not one offered by Fi and none that I know of exist that would fit it from anywhere else. Sorry to see that though, those subs are so damn beautiful.

That was definitely funny and it's funny when people talk shit about things they have no idea about. For instance, a few weeks ago I took the kids to see Guardians of the Galaxy. After we watched the movie we headed to Wally World to grab a couple of things. We were in the van and having a little fun listening to some Five Finger Death Punch as we pulled into the parking spot next to where some guy and his girl were standing next to their car. When I got out of the van he goes, "Wow, hope everyone can still hear." and I told him yeah it does okay. Then he asked what was in it so I just showed him. I open the rear hatch of the van and he looks at it for a moment and goes, "Oh, yeah I had some of these." Which really got my attention and I asked him about owning Fi to which he answers, " Well no, not that exact brand. I got them from Wal-Mart and I blew them pretty quick but they were okay while they worked." I proceeded to inform the moron that Fi subs are custom built in Vegas and that you can't buy anything like them from a store let alone some bullshit store like Wally World and decided I wasn't about to give the idiot a demo. He was obviously too stupid to understand, lol.

Just keep the Hifonics amp and this is coming from someone who's not a big fan of Hifonics. The amp isn't any worse than some many of other Chinese built amps on the market and definitely better than some hundreds of others. As Justin said, they're not known for their quality. If you could afford an upgrade sometime in the future then it probably wouldn't hurt but otherwise there's not going to be any problem running the BL on it. I say run with it and be happy, but that's just my .02

It's that time of year again when our local university automotive department is putting on their annual car show. It falls on Nov. 1st this year and as always is open to anything and everything. There's a pretty good showing of cars every year (especially when the weather is decent) and wouldn't expect this year to be any different. I'm hoping to get a better showing of Car Audio related vehicles at the show this year. I'm trying to get everyone I can locally that's into the hobby to attend and I plan on having at least the Jimmy there if not both it and the van. It would be absolutely awesome to have some guys from the forum attend, especially anyone from Team IAK!

Those doors are like the ones on my van. As its been mentioned, remove the plastic panel. You'll need to lower the window first as the window track and everything associated with it will come out with the panel. Treat the sheet metal as previously described then put the window frame back on the door. At this point you've done about all you can do. I didn't have any luck with CLD tiles sticking to the plastic frame in the van, maybe you'll have more luck than I did. As Sean mentioned it's time for CCF and MLV at this point. On a side note, I was successfully able to remove the factory baffle from the frame and bolt on an MDF baffle but it wasn't easy. Good luck with it man.

Congrats guys!

If you can work through getting the connection made you should get it back. I was able to get the factory rear camera in my Traverse to work on the HU without any issues, but the connector that was supplied only allows for it to display on the HU or the rear view mirror one at a time, not at the same time. I'm going to make an edit to some wires and fix it so both work in the future, it's not as important as the other stuff to get completed.

Now that's a graciously generous person! Three Cheers to Erik!!

You should also purchase a voltmeter to put on the amp terminals themselves to watch voltage drop at the amp. If you're only getting a little dimming I wouldn't think that you're stressing the electrical of your vehicle so bad that you're running any risk at hurting anything. It doesn't take a very large change in voltage to affect light output from standard incandescent bulbs. When my Jimmy had stock electrical just turning on the turn signals at idle would make the headlights dim just enough to be noticeable, along with seeing a "tick" in the voltage on the dash volt meter. The voltage wasn't dropping much, but it didn't need to just to see it in the headlights. I agree, do the big three, install a volt meter to monitor voltage at the amps and see what you have. If you see your voltage at the amps consistently below 13v then some sort of upgrade might be advisable. If not, and with the power you're running, a little dimming in the headlights isn't anything to worry about at all.

You're going to hear it both ways no matter what forum you're on. Of course, common sense tells us all that a fuse is a safety device and should be used in these instances. However, I agree that if the length and routing doesn't seem as though it's easy to do or wouldn't really require it then I don't see a problem not using one. Like Evan said, when the wire would run the length of the car a fuse would be a really good idea. Or, like in the instance of my Jimmy as seen in the picture below, the wire was only 14" long and is on top of everything. Putting a fuse in would be a major PITA and there's not really any danger of the wire becoming damaged and shorting out so I didn't put one in. It's best for every person to weigh the pros and cons and decide for themselves as like most of this hobby, every persons vehicle, application and tastes differs from the next. Just realized I never got a pic of the positive wire run from the alt to the battery, but you can see it's not a long distance nor is there anything in between to cause any sort of problem with the wire itself.

Well it is made of plastic. Probably kinda light. Never implied it was good for that, just can't argue that value. I don't use paperweights. Well it is made of plastic. Probably kinda light. Perhaps a wrestling prop where someone can slam it down and watch it shatter in a thousand pieces would be most useful. I bet we could measure the sound of it slapping the floor at 40hz then I have many other things that I'd rather measure with my Acoustic Camera...however, if someone donates one for the smash perhaps you could convince me differently. I would almost blow $150 on a new one just to watch a video of you doing it. I got an idea, lets take up donations from everyone who's willing to pay to see it!!

It's alright. I didn't believe you had any intention of doing it on purpose, but I kinda thought that after this long there wasn't much point in pursuing it anymore. But then I figured I'd give it one last shot for the hell of it. Thanks for following up on it.

Nah, hell with it. Been over a year at this point, I'm just gonna say screw it and write it off.

Yeah I know, some good guys aren't on much anymore. I'm looking for Rick because we have a transaction that's not yet been completed.

Just wondering if anyone knows him personally, or at least may know why he's not been on the forum since April (according to his profile)?