altoncustomtech

Well, nearly a month after I got it to the mechanic and I have the Jimmy back!!!! New engine, new transmission, the starter noise is fixed, rear U joint is replaced (didn't even know it was bad) and she's running like a top! The stereo as it sounds right now is pretty damn impressive so I'm going to put the permanent installation of the full ranges and the 8" midbasses off until I get the build work in the wife's Traverse done before I take on the finishing of the build in the Jimmy. Damn it feels good to be driving it again!

Dunno what Quentin's using, but the best tool I've found for cutting panels like that is an AIR SAW with a shallow cut tight turn blade. Works wonders if you have a steady hand. Kind of like using a hacksaw blade by hand only not near as hard to manipulate and much faster.

Finally got started on this! Took the opportunity yesterday to start installing the Kenwood and Maestro. I would have finished it yesterday except a storm came through and made it a little tough to be working outside, lol. After getting it finished up this morning I gotta say I'm a little disappointed in the Maestro. It basically works as it should but the factory mic wouldn't work through it and pressing the voice/call button doesn't do anything. No voice prompt, no SIRI (if I turn it on), no other indication that it works except when someone calls it does answer a call when someone calls in. Aside from that it seems to work just fine. The HU isn't too shabby but besides the touch screen and bluetooth has the same functionality as the KDC-X492 I originally had in the Jimmy. Tearing into the truck to do the HU was very insightful though and I'm beginning to get a good lay of the land (so to speak) on where and how wires are going to need to be ran and things of that nature. I did find out that getting new speaker wires into the doors is going to be an absolute nightmare. Well, onto some pictures. Soldering and heatshrinking the stereo harness to the GM05+ T-harness for the Maestro unit. Got the dash apart and started getting things hooked up. At this point it really is as simple as plug 'n play. The end result. Also the pair of Soundstream Harmony's arrived today while I was outside finishing up the HU install. I know it really seems to be a waste to Sean, but I didn't feel it was a bad deal and I think it will be a fair stepping stone going up to the mDSP or similar.

Those connectors are really cool. I will have to do a bit more research on them. Curious to know how much pore they can handle. They're rated for 40A contiuous current (like DC) and 50A of Audio signal. Depending on the amplifier design that could be 2,500 watts and more. It could also be less it just depends on the amplifier, it's design, and whether or not it's ran at those levels for long periods of time. What kind of terminal do they use? I currently use banana plugs to make my box easily removeable, but I like how these can't short out the amp. Good looking build osiris. Box turned out nice! It's hard to explain, it's a proprietary connector. Here's a picture to help with what it looks like.

I'm using a pair of the 8" model IB in the rear deck of the Olds. Last time I crawled in the trunk to look at them everything seemed just fine. Do pretty damn decent for their modest price as well.

I was wondering the same thing...

Too bad you're not willing to ship. I'd pick them up for the hell of it.

I just picked up a pair of the Soundstream Harmony DSP's. The PPI DSP-88R is the same thing as well. They've got the majority of the power of the miniDSP, 31 band EQ's, up to 48dB crossovers in LP, BP & HP, individual channel gain, time alignment, etc. They lack the parametric EQ though the graphic does have adjustable Q for each band. I guess that makes it a quasi-parametric or something of the sort. They're also good for up to a 5V input voltage level too. Anyway, when OCS gets them back in stock they can get picked up for $209 from them or for around $250 at other locations. I got one for the Traverse and the other for the Jimmy. As far as the highs and midbass, it's hard to beat the FR88 and SLS 8 combo.

Got the HU today! I'm going to take the harnesses for the HU and the Maestro to work tomorrow to solder and heat shrink up nice and clean. The only thing I'm waiting on now is the install kit for the 4 channel amp, SDS deadening products, and the Soundstream Harmony DSP. I ordered the Soundstream instead of the PPI because the PPI was out of stock at OCS and if I was going to have to pay the same prices I figured I would get the one that was a little more pleasing to look at. Otherwise they're the exact same unit. Again, I KNOW it's a little bit of a waste but it's only wasting the active capabilities of the DSP. The EQ, time alignment, independent channel gain adjustments, and crossovers are still worlds ahead of the controls built into the Kenwood so it's not a complete and total waste. I got one for the Jimmy too which will be VERY nice for it with the full ranges and dedicated midbasses in it. Plans as of now are to use the Bravox set. She decided she's okay with a little bit of work showing so I'll be installing the Bravox 3-ways the only way I could figure out. It appears the sail panel is removable from the door panel so I'll be fabricating a new sail panel to house the midrange, the tweeters will go in the factory location on the A-Pillars and the woofers into the factory locations in the doors. DEFINITELY not optimal but I'm hoping to get lucky like I did with the components in the van. Even though the tweeters and mids were separated so far from each other it worked VERY well. If it sucks, well, it's just going to have to be subpar until she either gets over me doing the custom work to it or she wants me to do something different. I just have to be happy with it until she isn't, no biggie, I got the Jimmy for the SQ listening anyway!

Believe me man, I KNOW what you're saying and as always I appreciate your help and insight. The problem is that I also KNOW my wife and doing anything more than what I've got her talked into so far is just not going to happen anytime soon. While I may be worried about exactly how it's going to sound first and what it's going to look like second those aren't her priorities. Since she's the one driving it most often and feels like it's HER vehicle I'm at her mercy on it. Besides that I subscribe to that good 'ol saying, "A happy wife makes for a happy life." So as long as she's happy I'm happy enough and in a few years when the new wears off and/or she detonates the components I can go the route of making it exactly as I want it. Sure, it's a bit of a waste of time and money but at this point I just look at it as an opportunity to gain more experience with the different equipment and installations.

Certainly. I picked them up from a place called Exquisite Collectables. The website and place looks pretty generic but they're straight up legit. Not only did they have the lowest prices I've found on the web for the amps (only $30 cheaper average tho) but at the time they were running a 20% off special that applied to the amps so I got them for $640 and shipping was only $5. They also shipped the amps the same day, I ordered them Monday and got them Thursday. Pretty tough to beat IMO, just do a search on their website for Zapco. EDIT: I think the collectibles site is just another part of their business. When I looked closer all the car audio stuff is on a site called Creative Car Audio that had all the same info, pics, and prices at the collectibles site. Oh, and the 20% off is still going on. Why buy the PPI when you can buy the source. Just a pair of miniDSP's in a box. My concern is if PPI limited the software...If you do that though, buying a comp set would be dumb as well as there is PLENTY of processing to do everything active. Then even some mediocre drivers and you can outperform the Bravox you wanted to put in originally. From what I've read the PPI DEQ.8/Soundstream Synthesis are the MiniDSP built units. The software screenshots even have the MiniDSP logo on the software. The new PPI DSP-88R/Soundstream Harmony are their own units that utilize a different processor and have different software. They lack a few of the MiniDSP attributes such as the Parametric EQ and input assignment but are simpler to operate and setup and they can handle a higher input voltage than the MiniDSP/DEQ.8/Synthesis units. I could easily be wrong, but that's what I've found while reading up on them. Trust me, I know that having a DSP would make messing with components pretty asinine but the way I look at it is like this: 1. My wife doesn't know shit about this equipment but she does understand cutting holes in the panels, lol. 2. Having the DSP now gives me a much better eq and such to use on components which gives an advantage over the horribly limited controls in the HU. 3. I'll have it already installed for the future when she blows the components and we've had it long enough she no longer cares about what I cut up and modify to fit speakers in so a great active setup will be exactly what is done. I'm at this as more of a help for now, need for the future kind of purchase. That makes $400 and up kinda hard to justify but $209 is doable.

I'm thinking hard about taking a leap of faith. Apparently new for 2014 PPI and Soundstream have released new DSP's that are just about as powerful as previous models but with an easier interface and much lower price points. I found the new PPI DSP-88R at OnlineCarStereo.com for $209 with free shipping and at other places for around $250. At that price point and with the same power it's hard to imagine a better deal on an 8 channel DSP. The only thing I've found so far that it's lacking is the Parametric EQ. Not sure how much of a show stopper that is but the 31 band graphic EQ, Fully 20-20khz 6db-48db high/low/bp crossovers, time alignment and gain/attenuation for each individual channel is still there. They can also handle up to 5V of input signal. So I dunno. EDIT: Nevermind, each band of the EQ has it's own Q adjustment just can't select the frequencies so Hell I really don't know now.

Those connectors are really cool. I will have to do a bit more research on them. Curious to know how much pore they can handle. They're rated for 40A contiuous current (like DC) and 50A of Audio signal. Depending on the amplifier design that could be 2,500 watts and more. It could also be less it just depends on the amplifier, it's design, and whether or not it's ran at those levels for long periods of time.

Just got the amps and the Maestro RR unit!! I even got an upgrade! There was a note in the box that they were out of the ST-1KDM amp so they sent me the Z-1K in it's place!! Got more stuff to order for sure, but it sure is nice to see things rolling in already!

Thanks. Yeah I think it's how I'm going to go just because the down firing designs make me nervous and the forward firing design just eats up space unnecessarily compared to the side firing. Without building them all and testing there's no good way to know how it's going to affect the sound or output. I am fairly certain the side firing design will cause more rattle issues than the other designs but that's what sound deadening is for.

lol, thanks. I can draw the tubes up for you and send them to you to import as an object to use in other drawings if you like. Ever see the XCON I drew up? lol

lol, believe me I know just how you feel. Thanx man. I have LOTS of GREAT memories on that 250X. They are definitely a blast. Ain't that the truth! I bet there's some awesome places to ride down there.

Yeah, aside from being able to ride together but doing our own thing I was afraid the wife was going to seriously hurt herself with that Rancher. It's 680+ Lbs. of machine being driven wildly by a ~120lb. woman, lol. She about turned it over on herself once when she put one side off in a rut playing in the mud and found out that rut was WAY deeper than she had bargained for. Between that kinda stuff and fishtailing it at 50mph on a gravel road, ramping, and all the other kinds of insanity we all enjoy she's gonna turn the thing over on herself. Or at least that's my fear. At least if she turned over the 250EX it wouldn't crush her beneath it's weight and she'd have a good chance of getting the machine off if she was by herself. Ain't no way she's lifting almost 700lbs. of Rancher. Thanks brother!

So here's another one I drew up, which I kinda like the best out of the bunch, I think. It's 2.23 cu.ft. NET tuned to 32hz with the same 36.75 sq.in. of port area as the other one. Physical size is slightly reduced down to 38" W x 17" D since there's no recesses in it to protect the subs from striking anything during high excursion peaks. I may redesign it out to 40" wide and that would make the enclosure 2.6cuft NET but I'll have to model the subs in the two designs and see if the difference one way or the other has any advantages. I'm also probably going to mock up an enclosure out of 3/4" thick blue insulation board to verify the fitment of everything too. Mainly so I can be sure that modifying the corners on the 40" width won't hurt anything structurally. Pictures of that process will show just how aggravating the rear of this vehicle is for this hobby, lol.

Thanks, I just wish I could give it more port area. I don't see anything wrong with downfiring at all as long as there's enough room for excursion.

Frame and softparts are trash, but the motor looked good from the other pictures. Should be able to sell the motor for some cash for sure, although I can't help with what it should bring.

Here's another design I'm kicking around. This one is 2.2 cu.ft. NET tuned to 32hz with a pair of 3" Precision Ports. I was working this design originally with a pair of 4" ports however I just couldn't work out stuffing the length into the enclosure. As you can see the enclosure is quite compact and with trying to make it so that groceries, kid stuffs, etc. can be piled on top of it I can't have the subs or ports firing upward. That leaves me with forward, downward, and side firing options. The maximum dimensions I've measured are 40" wide and 18" deep with a height of 12". Depth goes down the taller the enclosure is due to the lean of the back seat and at 40" wide the corners will have to be shaved/modified because the rear quarter panels curve down and around to the back of the vehicle. It's really quite challenging and it's been awhile since I worked on something quite this difficult. Anyway, here's a few pics of the down firing, ports to the side design that I'm trying to work out.

Just thought I'd share for the fun of it. Ever since we bought our fourwheeler (a 2009 Honda Rancher 420AT 4x4) back in August of 2011 I've always wished we had at least another good quad for us to ride so that me and the wife could do our own things when we went out to play. On that same note I've been after my uncle for years (long before I bought the Rancher) to sell me my cousins 1991 Honda 250X. Although I knew it had been through a lot (I know cuz I helped A LOT!!) it was still a VERY solid quad and it also got the engine rebuilt a few years ago due to my uncle having a brain fart about the installation of the oil filter in the engine. In the mean time of hounding him at least once a year about selling the 250X to me I learned that back in 2006 Honda started putting what's called a "Sport Clutch" in the new 250EX's. After reading up on that great little idea I really wanted to get one for the family as it would be able to teach the manual clutch handicapped lot of them how to use a clutch without being so hard on a real manual clutched machine (kills, overrevs, underrevs, clutch dumps, etc.). Alas the money was never right for one of those. So fast forward to the last few weeks. I asked my uncle, once again, about buying the 250X. It had sat for the last 3 years due to some issue with the carb and I figured that after sitting that long if I was ever going to have the chance this would be it. I couldn't believe my luck!! He finally said yes!!! So, I went and picked it up last weekend (the 21st) and brought it home. Took the carb off and found a clogged idle jet and a passage or two that were less than perfectly clean. Threw it back together and BOOM, it fired right up and ran perfect! So we spent the day Sunday playing around on the new (to us) quad and having an all around good time with a 23yo machine that runs and looks like it's only a few years old. All the fenders are in perfect shape, the seat cover is in great shape and the original, it even has the original 1991 headlight bulb (high beam only working tho) in it, lol. $750 for a machine I've loved literally since I was a kid. Then the unexpected happened. I was still hunting around for a 250EX, though I was skeptical I would find one for a price I was willing to pay for it and it still be any count. Monday (the 23rd)I logged on and checked out a few listings on CL while on lunch break at work and I ran across a 2007 250EX that was listed as being in like new shape. Owned by a woman who had ridden it only a hand full of times, got pregnant and hadn't ridden it since. It sounded too good to be true as the price on the listing was $2300 OBO. I thought, "What the hell?!?" right? and called her up. She answered the phone, we talked a little, I got the same spill as the ad stated. After talking to her about the number of people who had been looking at it I asked if I could take a look at it that evening and it was on. My wife, our best friend and I went down and when she opened the garage door up, damn. The machine very literally looked like BRAND NEW. There wasn't a spec of dirt to be found on it, the original tires still had the little rubber teets on them, there wasn't even scratches on the plastic from rubbing them against brush on a trail. I shot her an offer of $1800, she countered with $2000 and we settled on $1900!! Unbelievable! I was able to get two quads I had really been wanting at great prices in a 48hr period! Sorry for the long story guys, but the excitement has been welling up inside and I had to share it somewhere, lol. Here's a few pics of the great new toys. I gotta get a few more of the 250X, and yeah the 250EX has a few girly stickers on it, but what do you expect? It was originally owned by a woman, lol. Almost no one lives anywhere near me, but if you're ever interested in going riding someplace new come on down, up, or over!

to the forum. As previously stated, we need more information before we can give much on suggestions. Without knowing what kind of space you'll have to use all we're going to be able to give you are opinions and best guesses. Without knowing what your budget is there's no way to know if you're looking to only spend for something like an Alpine Type R or if you can get as crazy as a Critical Mass UL12 (about a hundred vs. thousands of $$$). Those are reasons why the details matter. Not sure what other audio forums you have experience with, but we're a little different around here, lol.

Very clean work! A suggestion on the disconnection for the wiring if I may. The sturdiest and best connector I've found for making a quick way to disconnect an enclosure from the vehicle for removal is the Neutrik Speakon connector. If you've never heard of them they're most commonly found on PA amps and gear so you know they're super tough. They're also a non-shorting, non-exposed conductor type connector so it could be disconnected and left to the side without worry of it ever shorting out. The connectors and sockets are available from PartsExpress and aren't very expensive either. I've used them in the build for the van and in the Jimmy with great results and no issues thus far. I will also be using them in the Traverse when that build gets going. Keep up the great work!