altoncustomtech

^^^ I definitely agree that you need to look more into the front stage and the midbass setup than at the sub. The majority of everything that you hear from a drum set rests in the midbass region. Sure, there's plenty of bass there but it lies mostly in the harmonics and the deeper bass notes overlap the bass and midbass regions. The subwoofers can and should help with this but the entire duty shouldn't rest solely on them.

It's been awhile since I've been to a good competition or show. Been to a few small ones in recent years but they're generally kinda lame. I never go to compete, only to have a good time and enjoy the setups, vehicles and stuff. Every time in the last few years that Slamology got close something came up with work and I couldn't go, so I exactly what kind of boat you're in there, lol.

smart guy forsure he has helped me a ton over the past year Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.

Awesome. I'm definitely going to try real hard to make it to Slamology this year. Hopefully if I can finally make it I'll see you guys there.

I'd love to check it out, but I'm a lot farther away than you realize. I'm practically on the Indiana/Illinois border. There's a good chance the sub being in such close proximity played a part in it. But you're right, everyone has their own preferences and listening habits. I stand by the thinking that if it sounds good to you then that's what counts. So if it doesn't do what it takes to get it sounding good and that's what it sounds like you're doing to me. Thanks for explaining it all though, it helps with understanding the thought process behind your decision and comments.

I have the same amp and in the book it shows where .2v is which is all the way to the right, that with telling him to back off a bit i'm sure he will be safe, plus I have called maxxsonics on this very issue a couple times : )I'm not trying to get into any great debate, but what you are recommending would cause more than one problem. If his head unit was rated for 2.5v where does the .2v setting come from? Not that head unit ratings are great to go by anyway. I see what you mean I recommend that the OP call Maxxsonics and get their advice on where he should begin setting the gain as did I to begin with. Even they can't tell him exactly where it should be set. There's too many variables to the process.

I wouldn't suggest having him set his gain knob to any one position. Honestly there's no way to know exactly where the gain knob needs set without being there working on his specific setup. Personally I set all my gains by ear, the OP should probably at least look at using the DMM method as I am sure he probably doesn't have the ear (just yet) to notice when the subs start to distort or show signs of stress. I hate suggesting that method as it's not the most accurate either, but it's nowhere near as inaccurate as suggesting a single position on the knob.

Ideally you would model the driver in your desired enclosure before purchasing one to verify the response meets your needs.However when initially looking for drivers to select a good staring point is to calculate the driver's Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP). EBP = Fs/Qes If the EBP is 50 or less it is best suited for a sealed enclosure. Between 50 to 90 or 100 the driver will work reasonably well in either ported or sealed. Above 90 to 100 the driver would work best ported. So as you can see it isn't ONLY about Qts, you have to take Q in relation to Fs to determine what type of enclosure the driver is most suited towards. Beat me to it, lol.

No problem man, I'm glad to help. So is everyone else, we're a fairly tight family on here, even the guys who don't see eye to eye. Just remember to calm down, take your time and have patience. Another thing to consider, and this has been the case for most all of us, is to forget almost everything you THINK you know about car audio. As I found out as well, what most of us are taught and learn over the years has not been accurate information. As long as you're willing to be open to understanding that and listen there's more accurate information on this forum and it's members than anywhere else on the web.

Four hours???!!!???!!! You're in Indianapolis for Christ's sake. There's quite a few members on here that live in and around Indianapolis that I'm sure would be MORE than willing to help you with cutting and building an enclosure. Hell, for that matter, I'm half that far away (roughly 2-2.5 hrs) and would be glad to help with this kind of stuff. As for whether or not it's what you want or not you'd need to hear what the two different kinds of setups sound like. That I'm afraid makes me about the only person that can help you with that unless there's someone else you know who's got a PR setup. I was thinking doing a C pillar wall with all those 18's would look pretty bad ass and fool the hell out of people like my 10's are doing. They think they're all real subs until they look through the plexi windows, then the look on their face is priceless, lol.

It's not that you CAN'T use it at all, it's that it gets misused by 99% of the people out there so it's just easier to tell people NOT to use it. If the bass isn't loud enough it's because of a limitation in the installation. Either it wasn't done right, wasn't done big enough in the first place to give the output the person is looking for, or it's a combination of both. Bass Boost is nothing more than an old marketing gimmick to make a quick fix for people that had anemic bass response. It's also, as a result, helped companies sell tons more equipment because of it's misuse and subsequent destruction of the equipment it was being used on.

ok first off tbe price doesnt match the quality.. the n3 slammed on burps but nothing else.. but thats what it was designed for so no complaints from it really... the team fi... supposed to be some kind of god send.. not so much.. it was loud but sounded like shit while doing so.. reminded me so much of a orion hcca I bout puked.. im sure fi isna decent product but im just not buyin it I've only used the lower tier's of subs (X, SSD, Q) but none of them disappointed in the least. It's hard to believe the Team sub would inherently sound bad. I don't see any company that would want to remain in business do that on purpose. It just makes me curious about the installation and setup.

Absolutely. The BIGGEST reason I did it in the Jimmy, with only 10's mind you, was because I like doing things that are different, I had never tried that type of setup before, and let's face it having the bragging rights of using the first and so far only XCON PR's is kinda kewl. LOL In all seriousness I couldn't even imagine trying to do it with 18's in a vehicle. The 10" PR's that match the XCON's perfectly cost me $90 each. If I hadn't had the extra money and worked hard to learn to fully understood the pros and cons of using such a setup I wouldn't have even thought about it.

to the forum Jamie!

Your BTL is an 18, correct? For the best performance you'll need with a PR larger than it or a pair of 18" PR's. A PR setup won't save a tremendous amount of space over a standard ported enclosure. It does make it a little smaller though and has a few other advantages such as the easy to change tuning and better transient response. It's not exactly the same but it's kinda like the best if both worlds between sealed and ported.

Yes. To expect the same response (or even similar) to that of a standard ported enclosure the size needs to be the same. What are you looking at doing that's going to use PR's?

Yep, still got all the associated files on my laptop too.

It only has a single 1/0 input for the power inputs so I'm a little skeptical on it's ability to produce a true 10kw. On the note of making some cash on a bargain I see prices on them in the $1k range so that's how I would weigh the decision if I were you.

Of course it's going to be power hungry, it's a 10kw amp and you have to supply the power to output the power. Even if we're generous and say it's 85% efficient at 1 ohm and can really and truly output 10kw it's still going to require about a thousand amps of current to make that power output, lol. Price on it seems fair, other than that I have no experience with it either. For that matter I've barely got any experience with anything large than the 2K's I own/have owned.

Happy Birthday to you, Happy Birthday to you, You look like a monkey, And you smell like one too! J/K brother, hope you have a good one!

I'm glad the enclosure is working out so well for you!! It's one that I wonder out often because of the love I have for the DCON's! I'll make it easier to see the pics too.

LMAO, it's coming. Lost my interwebz service in the storm that's going through, gave up on it and switched to my cell now. lol

PM Sent.

It's for whether or not you need a basket or not. Say you were reconing it to a 12", you'd need a basket too as it's got the 18" basket on it. If you're reconing it as an 18" again you don't need a basket so chose "no".

They're dual 4 ohm subs, no way to get a single sub to a 1 ohm load on the amp.