altoncustomtech

Technically speaking yes, and yes it does. Build the enclosure I posted up and try them out on the one amp for now, you never know they may very well surprise you.

Yes, by wiring them together and using the one channel. It's basic electrical knowledge taught in classes world wide. I could link you 100 sites that have information on that very subject. 1200 watts would be applied to the circuit as a whole (i.e. both subs) but each one would only see half of it.

The amp maybe 1200 @ 1 ohm but it cannot give BOTH subs 1200 watts each. In any given circuit the power is distributed through all loads in the circuit and when the resistance of those loads is the same the power in the circuit will be divided evenly by the number of loads. 1200w / 2 = 600w per driver. No amount of wiring changes can negate this.

If you can fit these dimensions SSA has a pre-designed enclosure for the sub HERE. If those dimensions won't fit then we can help you with a custom box to fit your vehicle.

As I mentioned before, here are the pictures of basically what it could look like when you have it all done.

Alright, here's a bunch of dimensions on the bracing plus some exploded views of the basic way its assembled in the enclosure and such. Also, be sure to give me your email address and I can send the sketchup drawings themselves to you. With them you can spin it around, dissect sections and things like that to get a better understanding of how the assembly goes. Here's the dimensions on the frame brace. The long one goes the width of the subwoofer box part of the enclosure. The two shorter pieces are centered up along it's length on each side. You'll need to cut out two of the long parts and four of the short ones. Here's the dimensions on the window brace. All of the parts of the brace are 1" wide and as mentioned before if the hole in the center isn't large enough to fit the magnet then you can make it larger without any problems. You'll need to cut out two of these, just flip one over for the other side. Here are the dimensions for the double baffle supports. They simply stand up lined up with the supports for the circle cutout in the center of the window brace up against the walls of the enclosure. You'll need to cut out eight of these, four for each side. Here are some exploded views of how the bracing is assembled with dimensions. Let me know if you need any more detailed information on the bracing.

I thought I'd share the design I threw together for Antoine's pair of 15" Orion HCCA's. So, it's almost completely done. I have a little more work to do on the cut out information for the bracing and to finish the drawing. Which, BTW, what were your intentions for finishing the enclosure? Carpet, paint, bed liner? What colors? I can make the final drawing make a great representation of the final product if you would like me to. The design should land the tuning right in the 30hz neighborhood with a little over 4 cu.ft. NET volume per sub measuring 48" W x 30" D x 20" H. Orion's manual and information for the sub is a little light so there's not a lot of good information to go on from their documentation. I made the hole in the window brace for the magnet on the sub 12" in diameter. If that's not large enough there's more than enough space there to open that hole up. The frame bracing underneath the window brace is also sized the same way so it would have to be modified to match the hole in the window brace. Same with the depth of the sub. Most of the numbers I could find on the sub showed it having just under 12" of depth. There should be PLENTY of space between the sub and the frame braces under the sub/window brace to clear but again, if there's not then just adjust it accordingly. That's the one real problem with not having the sub's I'm designing for in my hands, I can't verify for myself what all the dimensions/measurements are. Here's all the captures of the build of the enclosure including a cutsheet (minus the upcoming bracing of course). As soon as I know if you want to see it completely finished as you're intending to do so I'll get those and the bracing cuts to you asap. I can email you the sketchup models as well so you can pull them apart to see the design and how all the parts go together as well. Just let me know what your email addy is. Onto the good stuff!! Just let me know if there's any part of the design I need to go deeper into or explain.

I would have picked it up the very second I saw the thread if I had a use for a sub that size. It's just physically too large for anything I have. FREE BUMP... lol

Your answer here...???

^^^ Exactly. Impedance and "reactive" resistance is basically the same thing. Regular resistance, like a resistor in a circuit, doesn't change with a given frequency, voltage, current, etc. Any coil wound resistor/resistance has an impedance that changes with the AC frequency that goes through it. DC current sees a constant resistance value though and is typically lower than AC impedance. As Julian mentioned the impedance value that is listed is basically like an average for a given range of frequencies. 1.4 ohms would be about 2 ohms nominal impedance. You are measuring that resistance with the subs disconnected from the amp, correct? Three dual 2 ohm subs could be wired to .33 ohms (all parallel), 1.33 ohms (series coils/parallel subs), 3 ohms (parallel coils/series subs), and 12 ohms (all series). Can be viewed here.

Damn, that's the problem with doing something in a hurry. In the pictures it shows the first port wall dimension as 17 3/4" long, the cut sheet shows 18 1/2". The cut sheet is correct. When I was grabbing the lines with the dimension tool I didn't get all the way to the end of the port wall. Keep that in mind when you go to cut everything out.

So, here's the enclosure. It's 4.25 cu.ft. NET tuned to 30hz with a simple "L" shaped slot port. I'm using a nearly identical design (different dimensions obviously) in my van with a pair of Fi Q 12's and have been for about four years with no issues at all. PM me your email address and I can send you the Sketchup file for the enclosure for you to play with, reverse engineer from, etc. to get acquainted with the design and how it all fits together. Here's the cutsheet. This is what it could look like completely finished.

Just hold on, I'm throwing together something quick and simple. Nothing elaborate, nothing fancy, a simple slot port enclosure that will be 4.25 cu.ft. NET tuned to 30hz. Keeping it simple will keep it easy to cut out, easy to build, and will be plenty good for a first timer.

While I do agree that using Torres will help you play with the numbers a little, it could still be a little overwhelming if you've never designed/built an enclosure before. Why is it that you're specifically looking for 5.2 cu.ft. NET? Are you sure you mean NET and not GROSS? While that amount of space per sub for a twelve isn't outlandish or even outside of manufacturer specs it's going to make for quite a large enclosure once the port and it's volume is added to it and you sure can't use the entire 30" of depth as the port has to have room to breathe between the enclosure and the tailgate.

Whoa buddy, take it easy. There's plenty of people here who can help but we need more information. For starters the maximum dimensions you're planning/willing to give up for the enclosure would be nice. I have a two door '01 Jimmy myself but I'm pretty sure the four doors have a little less space in the rear than my two door does.

It's old school. Back in the day that's how most amps were. Awesome, that must really be old school. I've had a few older amps over the years, probably very early 90's to late 80's at the oldest and had never seen it. As Brendan asked though, what the hell do you do when you bridge the channels? Match the voltage on them stereo so you know they're equal when bridged? That's the only solution I could think of. Zapco hasn't responded back to the email I sent them yet.

I responded to your PM.

No idea actually. The book is pretty well devoid of any very useful information. I'm going to email Zapco on that very subject and a few questions on the switches for the crossovers.

If nobody else will I can, but it sounded to me like Enrique (Bassink) is on the case.

Got the Zapco and holy crap is it a monster. Shipping weight said it was 22lbs but I swear it feels more like 30lbs, lol. Again, I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it but it was too good a deal to pass up. I found one other store still selling it online and they had it priced for $600 so the $270 I paid shipped is a steal IMO. Here's just a few pics for the fun of it. One VERY interesting thing I found out about the amp is that all 7 channels have their own separate gain knob. Is that not odd, or at least different from the norm?

There's nothing wrong with using more than rated power on any driver BUT it takes more attention to everything and a good ear to keep from destroying them. Extra power is good for headroom plain and simple. The headroom gets you more power to the driver with less chance of clipping and distortion. Nothing but a good thing as long as you don't overdo it on the volume knob. I understand what you are saying....but this is exactly why i tend to set up my systems where they are very unlikely to get overdriven. I just don't see the need unless you are competing. Admittedly i am just getting into this level of output, but I have always ran subs that had a bit more rating than the power I am feeding them, and have yet to blow an amp- or cook a woofer(except for the IA I just had reconed...and I was over powering it). But it seems self evident when you are feeding a 600w sub almost 1000w and it starts coming apart what the problem is.LOL It doesn't have to have anything to do with competing, actually almost completely the opposite. I edited in a link to that post that Brad wrote up on the subject. It details a great explanation on why headroom is a very good thing to help things sound so much better than they can when running rated or below rated power on a speaker.

I haven't done any math at all, but just from previous experience and a little guessing there's no way the enclosure you posted is tuned to 33hz. I would also question if the port would act properly being farther from the rear of the enclosure than it's width but not enough to not completely rule out it's interaction. It's equivalent to having a 4" wide port on the side of an enclosure instead of the center that ended 5" from the back wall. The port will still try to act as though that bend at the back corner was part of the length but it wouldn't be the exact same as being added to the port length because it's wider where it opens into the enclosure. Even if the questionable port length didn't cause an issue I'd be very surprised if the tuning is even close to 33hz AND even if it is I agree with the others on building one custom to your application. You're in good hands with it and seemed to have provided the right information I just wanted to provide you with better details as why not to bother using the design you found.

There's nothing wrong with using more than rated power on any driver BUT it takes more attention to everything and a good ear to keep from destroying them. Extra power is good for headroom plain and simple. The headroom gets you more power to the driver with less chance of clipping and distortion. Nothing but a good thing as long as you don't overdo it on the volume knob. EDIT: This link "Amplifier Headroom" is a terrific write up on the subject, what it really means and what it can do for you.

to the forum!

^^^This exactly. Give us some history on the setups you've had in the past. For all we know "loud" to you is a pair of 12" Pyle Red Labels in a cheap prefab bandpass enclosure in which case we would know that you have no idea what "loud" is. Or perhaps your last setup consisted of four Sundown SA-15's in a wall with 3500 watts on tap in which case you should definitely have an idea of what "loud" really is. That and everyone has a personal preference as well. While I enjoy listening and playing with big hair moving setups I find the two 12" Q's in my van to be more than adequately loud for me and we rarely have the remote level control above 1/3 of the way up. Your preference may be more like the hair moving, vision skewing, teeth rattling, breath inhibiting type of loud or at least that may be your goal. Clear definitions of what you want and what your trying to do would be most helpful. As was mentioned by stephen if you REALLY want to go as high as 5500 watts $1100 will hardly even cover a new 5500 watt amp let alone all the electrical upgrades that are required to make it operate without shutdown and output issues from voltage drop at best, going up in smoke at worst. Systems this large and powerful take a great deal of planning and support over just buying a bunch of equipment and throwing it in together.