altoncustomtech

Looks like a very nice enclosure! Should do that BL very well when you get it.

I would imagine they'll take care of this real quick. You can tell from the pictures the coil is sitting in the right place and the spiders are flat and level, same as the good one on the right, however there's a lot more space between the cone and the spiders and the tinsel's are tight. Almost like someone who had no idea or business putting it together came in and glued the cone onto the top of the coil and pulled the tinsels tight and attached them. I can't imagine how this one made it through the quality control checks at all. Very rare.

The sub has to be assembled first. Once the slug is magnetized there's no way to build the motor. As far as the basket and soft parts are concerned, if there's room for the motor to fit in the machine with those parts attached I can't imagine how it would make a difference with them being attached. Seems like I remember Nick saying they're completely built when they get magnetized because if they magnetized them at any point before they're built they'd have major issues with metal shavings and such getting all over them.

Yes, the most likely culprit is not having the SSF set properly. You can't compare this experience to one you had with a completely different setup, you just can't. There are too many variables, too many differences that play a part in what may or may not happen with one setup over another.

mine will not paste here period.It will up top in the browser but not in the reply box That's just weird.

I just went through every setting on my photobucket account to try to find a reason for the difference and I couldn't find anything.

I have NO idea. It used to work with no problems, then sometime last year it choked. If I don't remove the ~original from the code the forum comes back and tells me the picture format is not allowed, go figure.

It's not mattered what I use, but I primarily use my laptop.

Beautiful glass work! Yeah Aaron, I'm a big fan of the rotary engines. Don't own an RX tho... This is one of my favorite rotary engine videos tho..... 1664 HP 4 rotor engine Sorry to threadjack brother....

I've found for me on this forum, and this is the only one, that when I post the /IMG code from photobucket that it adds this "~original" part to the code that screws it up, If it get rid of that it works just fine. Examples below. (URL=http_://s889.photobucket.com/user/altoncustomtech/media/C2DA4304-7C55-4DE1-B4DA-0FFEF1AF07DD-4541-0000033E3EAA12E0_zps047c8745.jpg.html)(IMG]http_://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac98/altoncustomtech/C2DA4304-7C55-4DE1-B4DA-0FFEF1AF07DD-4541-0000033E3EAA12E0_zps047c8745.jpg~original(/IMG)(/URL) When I delete it like so. (URL=http_://s889.photobucket.com/user/altoncustomtech/media/C2DA4304-7C55-4DE1-B4DA-0FFEF1AF07DD-4541-0000033E3EAA12E0_zps047c8745.jpg.html)(IMG]http_://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac98/altoncustomtech/C2DA4304-7C55-4DE1-B4DA-0FFEF1AF07DD-4541-0000033E3EAA12E0_zps047c8745.jpg(/IMG)(/URL) It works. I've been having to do that for quite some time on every picture I've posted up from photobucket and it doesn't matter where I get the /img code link from they all have it.

I have a lot different tastes than most and much different reasons and things to show off but here's several of my favorites to show off with: Skrillex - Rock 'n Roll -- Fun to listen to with fun bass lines and a great midbass beat. The Black Keys - Gold on the Ceiling -- Awesome midbass, catchy tune, another fun song to show off with. Eric Heatherly - Flowers on the Wall -- Strong and addictive drum beat for a county song. Shiny Toy Guns - le Disko -- Another song with a killer midbass drum beat and catchy and sexy rhythm. Excision - 8 bit Superhero -- Unreal bass lines from LOW to midbass crushing, ultimate show off song.

good question, wonder why you dont see it done more often. maybe pr's are limited to subbass frequencies? PR's basically work like any ported enclosure and that idea has actually crossed my mind with all the space limitations I have in the Jimmy being that I'm using them with the XCON for sub bass duty. The problem I ran across is that PR's are only really useful if the cone area is larger than that of the active driver. That means either multiples of the same size (two 10" PR's with one 10" active sub like I did for example) or one larger such as a 12" PR with a 10" active driver. The problem with using that idea with dedicated midbass drivers in a door is all the real estate that takes up for all those drivers. If you wanted to use a 6.5" midbass you'd need two 6.5" PR's or a single 8" PR and by the time you do enough custom work to fit all that on the door along with the enclosure to hold it you could have pretty well just went with the ported enclosure. Add in the fact it's more expensive because you have to buy the PR's along with the active drivers and it really spells out the reasons why you rarely ever see any PR builds in car audio at all let alone dedicated midbass builds for car doors. Believe me, I've toyed with the idea of a 10" PR to go with the SLS 8's in the Jimmy doors but it would be less work and cost to simply build sealed or ported enclosures for them. Although the cool factor and the matching factor with the XCON's would be awesome but it's just not practical.

I pulled the trigger on one. I figure that if it does nothing but sit in the closet for a few years I can turn around and resell it easily enough.

location is not the problem I have it up front it that I'd like to have more band to adjust the sound. I take it that your not a fan of the kq30. No, what he's saying is that with the digital processors that are available that can be adjusted from the seat you'll be listening to it in at real time then what would be the point in buying something so archaic. If you can't listen to the adjustments you make in real time it's much harder to hear AND know exactly what that adjustment did for you. Given the prices those are going for a DSP just makes that much more sense and with most of the DSP's on the market you have 30 or more bands of EQ for each individual channel and so much more that it can do.

to the forum!

lol, no one wants failed equipment, ever. Don't get me wrong either I'm still training my ears for everything associated from stress in the drivers to what ill effects the installation itself or the settings I've set in the signal chain are doing to what I hear so it could still very well happen to me. My point was really that it's not black and white, running more than rated power isn't necessarily be the direct cause for the drivers failure. I discovered completely on accident many years ago the benefits from running more than rated power to a speaker. Right out of high school I ran a cheap pair of Audiovox 6x9 3 ways rated for 40wrms on a Profile California A600XL which was rated 150wrms x 2 because at the time I wasn't aware of the insignificance of MAX power ratings. The power ratings matched up and I thought it was good to go and in fact that little setup impressed a lot of people at how clear and distortion free it was for what it was and it wasn't until years later I discovered what I had done. I ran them in that setup for several years without ever having any issues and when I would hear a little distortion, or something not sound right I would just turn it back down a notch or two until it sounded right again and went on. That was why they worked so good for so long and really all it takes to use speakers in a similarly overpowered way.

Why not? Depending on the person controlling the volume knob it could last longer. I've been running the 3" full range drivers in my Jimmy on about 4x their rated power with no issues. The 4x6's I just put in my Olds are on more than 3x their rated power and I expect them to last plenty of time. Hell, Brad (Impious) ran/is running his Bravox CS603CF's on around 4x their rated power and they have done great. The point is that if you know how to listen for stress from the drivers and setup crossovers and EQ's correctly there's not a single good reason that running more than rated power would cause a problem. On that note there's all kinds of good reasons that running 2x or more rated power and the headroom it gives you can be a VERY good thing.

No you don't, otherwise your driver selection and everything would be way different. As with everything passenger/driver is completely install dependent. Your choices state completely otherwise as you are more than willing to compromise.As for the question at hand, the install makes the difference. For me a two seat setup is ridiculous. I always maximize for myself. When listening to music critically I am almost always alone. Side cause of course is also that everyone I've ever put in my passenger seat is in awe at how good it sounds. I just smile though when I realize how much better it is in the drivers seat. That makes the most sense to me. I mean, who the hell am I spending all this money, putting in all this time, blood and sweat for anyway? Myself or the passengers riding with me who don't spend nearly as much time in it as I do? Me of course and because of that I maximize the potential of the system to MY listening position which is the driver's seat. Now, when I want to really show it off to someone I let them have the honor of sitting in that seat while demoing the vehicle to them but as Sean stated they typically tell me how great it is from elsewhere and I just laugh inside thinking the exact same thing. Hell, even if traveling a lot I'm still the one driving and I would want it to sound the best to me the whole time I'm behind the wheel.

It is. Although this vision is fairly minimal in comparison to the build in the Jimmy it's always good to see it come to life. Yes, yes, yes! Though I have to appologize, I've somehow lost the pictures of the actual mounting of the 4x6's but I have a few to share. I do have a small rattle behind the 4x6 on the driver's side that I think is the factory speaker wire rattling on the plastic vapor barrier, or it's just the vapor barrier. Anyway, when I pull the panel back off to look into that issue I'll get some pics of all the behind the scenes part of the mounting, fit, etc. at that point. I grabbed a picture of the door panel back on the car to show it still looks factory and of the finished amp install in the trunk. As you can see, it looks almost the same as it did when I took it off. Here's a few of the amp mounted in the trunk and all the wiring completed. It's nice to open the trunk and not even be able to tell any of it is in there. I've gotten a little bit of time driving and listening to it and I can honestly say those Dayton's are some of the smoothing sounding woofers I've had the pleasure to play with. It's probably got a lot to do with the fact they're being ran IB so there's no ill effects to be caused by an enclosure but they really are wonderful to listen to. Detail and impact without being overbearing or muddy. The 4x6's continue to leave something to be desired but I think there's an ill effect from the installation itself that's lending to the problem. It reminds me of the issues was having with the Bravox components in the Jimmy. The sound is a little dull and lifeless, like they're playing inside a closed cardboard box BUT the tweeters seem to shine fine and the stage/image is actually spot on. Doesn't make a great deal of sense but that's what I hear. Overall it's a fantastic improvement over the factory speakers which almost sounded like a big set of overear headphones mounted to the doors.

Hey there fellow Hoosier! Who have you talked to so far about it? I would imagine if you've talked to the likes of Mechman or DC Power and there's nothing they can do for/with the alternator then you're just SOL until which time they or someone does have something available for it. Most people who've had this dilemma add at least a second battery depending on the power they're running and rely on the banked battery reserve.

You do understand that the 7-15 days are BUSINESS days right (Your order has been in for 8 business days, 15 business days is three weeks), and why would you cancel payment? Do you realize that even if it's not done and shipped to your door in a month that the biggest part of the work on it, the machining of and building of the motor has been completed by that point. Every driver starts as blank slugs of steel, machined down and created from scratch. They're then hand assembled and have to go through a curing cycle to set all the glues and such. At that point the basket gets attached, the soft parts get gathered and someone hand assembles the voice coil, cone, spiders and such. I believe at this point, once assembly is complete, that then it has to go to a special machine to charge the magnet/motor. They can't be assembled with the magnet already charged. They are HAND BUILT subs from start to finish and it takes time for that process to happen. Factor in that it's tax refund season, with the sales going on with SSA products alone they have more orders coming in than usual. The process doesn't lend itself to speed but it does lend itself to a superior quality product. You should realize that if you cancel your order after a month that all you're doing is giving someone else who ordered the same thing as you after you placed yours their order that much faster.

Thanks man, I appreciate that. I finished the car up yesterday! I got the 4x6's mounted to the bafffles on the door panels and reattached the door panels to the car. I spent a little bit of time tuning it and I'm pretty happy with it so far. It doesn't sound like the van or the Jimmy but it's a VAST improvement over the crap it sounded like before. The Aura's aren't quite as smooth as I had hoped they would sound like but for the money I paid they could sound A LOT worse. The Dayton's however are doing extremely well. They could definitely use a little more power but they have a great punchy sound that's full and natural. I didn't have time for many pictures yesterday, I'll get some more taken today and get them posted up.

Happy Birthday!! Hope you have a good one!

thanks for this info. the next step is to build a different box. im going with a traditional sqaure sealed box just for test purpose. ill change the glue as well. i grew up using liquid nail so its second nature. i agree with all you said though. im not giving up on FI but so far its a first for me to build a box for a sub and have it sound bad. unless FI is a picky whore about enclosure and air space. Is there an air space recommended other than factory requirment you think. Personally its hard to imagine that huge sub sitting in a .75-1 cft box. Nope, I'd go with what Fi recommends. As Brendan mentioned you have to factor in the volume the sub itself to the volume of the enclosure. So say you're going to build an enclosure that is 1.5cuft NET, be sure to add the .16cuft of driver displacement for a total box volume of 1.66cuft total. For example the outside dimensions of a box that size might be 16" W x 16.75" D x 14.5" H, internal dimensions being 14.5" W x 15.25" D x 13" H. Every sub manufactured is picky about it's enclosure. The enclosure is everything to how it performs and the type of enclosure and other details can change just how picky it is. Sealed enclosures are the most forgiving and ported enclosures have to be much closer to the alignment specifications to work as designed. The more complicated the enclosure alignment (such as 4th order bandpass and 6th order bandpass) the more critical the design and build of it is but one major thing is common among all of them and will make or break their success and that's being AIR TIGHT. You said your current enclosure is 1.25cuft. How sure are you of that figure? Is that 1.25cuft including the sub displacement or not? Any chance you can post up dimensions so we can help verify the internal volume? Sorry I'm so inquisitive but the more information we have the more we can do to help you verify with as much certainty as possible where the problem truly lies.

Alright got some updates again. I got the amp mounted and wired up and the HU installed in the dash but I'll have to get pics of them taken and posted. I had too little time working on it yesterday to take the time out to take pictures. I tested the Dayton's for operation and I have to say I think they're definitely going to do the job. Good and tight response and they have good enough output for what I'm doing with them. I was able to get to the doors this morning and they're almost completely done now!! I got the baffles trimmed up to fit the door panels properly and still clear the connectors for the power window controls. I glued them to the door, got the grille fabric attached to the factory grilles and the grilles reattached to the door panel. It's time to attach the speakers to the baffles, hang the door panels back on the doors and tune it all in! Here's some pics from the progress this morning. I missed this picture on the last updates, both the grilles drilled out. Here's the baffles test fit and outlining the parts of the panel that need trimmed up. The panel all trimmed up for the least amount of interference with the speakers. Grille fabric on the first factory grille. Here's both door panels with the factory grilles all finished up and reattached. Not much left to do now!