altoncustomtech

I absolutely HATE my luck. Moments after posting this we found a broken head stud on one of the units..... There goes tomorrow......

Okay, got all the last of the equipment and wiring today!! I should be able to start tinkering with running the wires and working on installation of the gear tomorrow if I can get a few free moments at work. I modeled the Dayton's in an IB environment vs. a .6cuft sealed enclosure and there's almost no difference in output so they should be pretty fair used that way. Anyway, here's a pic of the stuff.

Is that the only information available on the part?

Build the removable part of the port with the varying lengths outside the enclosure. Say you know you need 10" of length to get the peak frequency of 43hz for example. For the 34hz and 26hz tunes the part of the port that goes into the enclosure is still 10" long BUT the extra length to get the lower tunes is sticking outside.

all Izzie (the dark one) does is sniff the volume knob til I turn it up. She loved my truck. Ever since the day I got her she's slept in front of my stereos lol. Speakerdog Jada is a therapy dog, and is probably just tryna cut loose and go buck wild when she's not at work idk lol My dogs for some reason don't like even a little bass.They just bark and want out. I always thought their hearing was much more sensitive so my pups baffle me. It probably used to be, lol.

BigJon - "It's ONLY two fifteens." Buddy - "Yeah on 10, er a gillion watts!" BigJon - "Eh, it's just 7,000" LMAO..... Yeah, only...... lol..... Good stuff man, good stuff!

I'm all in for the Primo. We'll be getting a vehicle to replace the van as the family hauling daily driver and the Primo is what I would love to see in it.

Thanks. It shouldn't be too shabby. Going to treat the 4x6's like fullranges, or toss one of the full range sets I have lying around in. We'll see which wins the toss up when I test them out. Since it won't and can't be on axis the 4x6's will probably be the ones to get used.

Okay, this little build will be going into my 1992 Oldsmobile 88. I bought the car about 7 years ago right after I started working for the pipeline I'm working for now. I got a hell of a deal on it and got it so that I had a car just for driving to work so my wife would still have the van to drive at home. I only drove the car for a couple of years before I bought the Jimmy and right after that I gave the Olds to my mother and father in law to drive because their car broke down and my mother in law was having to run around to doctors and things for her cancer treatments and such. Well fast forward from then and I find myself with the Jimmy out of commission and my father in law wasn't driving the Olds anymore because he had gotten his own car. So he gave the car back to me so I could have something to drive to work again. Just before I gave the car to him to drive I had dropped an OLD Pioneer CD player I had bought used on Ebay for $20 to put in the car because the factory radio didn't work. I also put a pair of Hifonics Zeus Components I had lying around from another project in the rear deck in place of the bad factory 6x9's. It still sucked but it made music. Now after driving the car awhile again I've gotten fed up with the damned thing. Only one of the mids in the Zeus components are working anymore and the front factory tweeter/mid thing in the front doors are shot. So I've picked up a little bit of stuff I got for cheap and I'm hopefully going to get it sounding better than it is right now. I'm also going to use this little build as an experiment as well on some ideas I have floating around in my head. The equipment going in: Pioneer DEH-X7500HD - Used a discount I had on hand at SonicElectronix to get it for under $80 Aura 4x6 coax's - On clearance at PE. I don't normally mess with oval speakers and such but for their clearance price I wanted to try them out. Going in the front doors. Dayton SD215A-88 - Used a promo code here and got them for $19 each. Going to use the pair as dedicated midbasses in the rear deck. JBL GTO1004 - Already have it on hand, will use it's internal crossovers to run the Aura's up out of harms way and utilize the Dayton's in the midbass range. We'll see how it turns out. It should be a fairly quick and easy build. The goal is simply to get something that sounds reasonably good with better overall response than it has now and able to get more volume out of it than it can produce now, especially without the front speakers sounding like they're going to puke on every drum hit even at low listening levels.

I can't say that I listen to a lot of electronic type music either, but there are certain songs that speak to me like many others from genres of music I don't normally get into. Regardless of whether or not you actually get into the song the thing will rock your world as far as it's ability to get a sub moving. If nothing else I'm sure you'll love it for showing off the output capabilities of the sub and it's ability to keep up with the craziest note shifts.

As you should be. You know, you should get and play the song 8-BIT Superhero by Excision. It's one of the most insane songs to play and will quickly become one of the best for showing off exactly what that thing can do both on it's output capabilities and it's quality of reproduction.

I think the Q is just that fantastic of a sub, but I might be a little biased, LOL. You did a beautiful job on the enclosure.

Hey, that's mine....... LOL In there for whoever may be interested.....

Bazooka used to have a water cooling system for subs and amps years ago. It never took off, or got popular but it did work. Seems like I remember someone telling me about a pole piece design that implemented channels for Freon to run though connected to a compressor to really cool the motor down and the voice coil as directly as possible but it's just too costly and complicated to be practical. They were able to design it, build it and test it but it was just not practical. I think the same person was telling me something about liquid nitrogen as well but it's been WAY too long for me to remember details. As Q said, convection cooling and such is about the only practical way to do more to cool the structure.

As a matter of fact they'll be needing to replace people at multiple locations coming up this and the next few years. We've got lots of guys that have been here over 30 years that will be retiring soon.

Damn straight it is, lol. You're probably right on the Industrial look, it's all around me everyday. You're all welcome for the pics. It's always neat to see new things and stuff like this most people don't even know exists.

Yes sir, that is correct. Or, at least, the broken one was, lol.

They're integral natural gas compressors. The engine has compressor cylinders that are mounted to the engine block and the connecting rods for the compressors share journals on the crankshaft with the power cylinders.

Got more pictures for you all. These pictures here are of an old Allison Turbine engine and compressor at one of the other locations. The engine is rated for 4,000HP and it just does have an automatic control system on it. These pictures are some rarely seen. Just earlier this week we had a unit at another location have a major failure on a connecting rod on one of the power cylinders. It's a 2,000HP rated Ingersoll KVT engine, V-12, turbocharged and I believe I have some pictures earlier in the thread of the same engine with all the compressor pistons, valves, rods, etc. removed and a shot or two in the crank case. The following pictures are only the first I've gotten of what happens in one of these when a rod lets go. There's been MAJOR damage done to the frame (block) but I've yet to receive those pictures. Suffice to say it's a major problem but they can stitch it all back together and getting running!

No kiddin. We've not gotten the snow down on my end as bad as north of me but we're seeing our share of plenty of low temps. They've forecasted -1 for tomorrow night. YAY US!!

LOL, that's funny. Yeah, it's hard to understand just what the scale is on some things until you have something practical to compare it to. Kinda like the engines at work, the bore of the cylinder and the piston inside the engine is only about 1" smaller than the nominal diameter of your subwoofer.

In ze chat...

That's going to be my only easy option at this point, and I'm not sure how EASY that's going to be with that damned window guide 2" behind the sheet metal centered directly behind where everything lines up with the factory mounting location. Any farther rearward and the window itself is a problem, almost no room to move it forward. It appears as though anything I want to do is going to require a custom fiberglass build. As it is I'm fairly certain I would have to angle the SLS to get it in there.

Here's a link to the specs for that TB 8. Tang Band W8-1363SB

It's treated paper though. I mean I wouldn't soak it or anything but you should be fine to wipe it down with a damp cloth. An Armorall wipe would do good too and worked fine for my Q's.