altoncustomtech

LOL, and hey, you even learned the formula for calculating the resistance of a parallel circuit.

Okay, I was remembering how the door was built/looked on the inside much differently than it is, lol. I've got a damned window guide rail right behind the center of where the drivers mount so now I've got to go back to the drawing board on what I'm going to do as far as mounting 8's is concerned let alone fitting any sort of enclosure. For a smaller diameter magnet that would or could help it fit in next to the window guide would the Tang Band W8-1363SB 8" sub be a worthy choice? For what it's worth I think the SLS will be okay IB but my ideas have definitely been thwarted.

I think I got him covered. He was trying to calculate what his final nominal impedance would be with a few different calculators, the final one giving him an answer of 1.7 with a 2 ohm and 12 ohm parallel circuit. He didn't think the 1.7 ohms was correct. He was also getting the wrong answer from the calculators he was using on how much power the higher ohm load and lower ohm load would receive in the circuit to which I think I finally got that straightened out, I think. So, I think that he's all good now. At least it would seem so.

In thar...

They're not actually as I misread the question. What you calculated was the power in the circuit with the voltage drop across the resistance which will show a higher power but to do it right it needs to be calculated with current. At least I think I'm describing that correctly.

The forumla for different resistances in parallel is 1/(1/R1+1/R2+1/R3) Where each R is the resistance of each resistor in the circuit and the forumla can be scaled up or down from just two resistances to as many as a person would care to try to calculate for. 1/( 1/(2ohms) + 1/(12ohms)) = 1/( .5 + .083) = 1/.583 = 1.7 ohms

Yes, that's about right on the value, 1.7 ohms would be correct and yes the speakers wired in series with the higher ohm loads will not see the same power the 2 ohm speaker will. Basic electricity and ohms law.

Happy Birthday Brother!

Happy Birthday!

I have looked at several of those calculators and was planning on doing the L-network I just wasn't sure if it would alter the crossover frequency or not. It's not a high powered DJ rig at all. It's just a pair of Matrix 12" 3 ways with a Crown XL200 amp running them, nothing spectacularly powerful at all and it's not going to be cranked to the moon. I've got plenty of them so adding them together to increase wattage wouldn't be an issue, though I could swear that connecting them in parallel was the way to add their heat dissipation together, not series. No matter, at least it won't affect the crossover frequency, that was the important thing.

I'm working on a project for a buddy of mine and I've come across a bit of a hold up. I'm more than familiar enough with circuit design, crossover components and such to build crossovers. I've been doing it for quite a few years with results that I felt were what I needed. I've come across something different with this as my buddies tweeter is significantly louder than the midrange or the woofer in his 3 way floor standing speakers. The speakers haven't been used in several years and when we hooked them up to test and tune the system for his mom's upcoming birthday party that we were going to DJ ourselves the old tweeters didn't work. Instead of waiting for me to help him find some he just ordered what he thought looked good/cool and they're way too loud. He did manage to make sure they were 8 ohm like the old ones and fit the hole in the enclosure, so he didn't do all bad. I've got a box full of 5 and 10 watt resistors all kinds of values that I can use to build an attenuation circuit to quiet the thing down, we don't have time to order better suited tweeters. My question is, does the resistors in the attenuation circuit change the impedance of the circuit as a whole enough to need to change the capacitor and inductor in the Lw-R crossover? Would it affect it enough to matter? If it does what's the best way to calculate or measure for the difference so I know what the change is and can get the components in the crossover changed to values that will keep the crossover point close to where it was supposed to be? Thanks for the help guys, this is the first time I've actually put an attenuation circuit to use and was just wondering how it affects the crossover point. I am assuming it doesn't change anything, or not enough to matter since they make L-PAD resistors that are variable and would change the crossover point every time it's adjusted.

Yeah... lol

I've never seen a square VC on anything anything over the years. There have been only a few companies that have done unusually shaped VC's over the years but the shape didn't change much from round, hexagon. Past that and all the years I've been playing with audio I'm not aware of anyone who's built anything with an odder shape than that.

Thank you guys for the answers to the questions. Brad you seemed to understand exactly where I was coming from.

to the forum!

I've read that thread several times and just went back to read it again to be sure I wasn't thinking out of turn and I don't believe I am. I am referring to the idea of using a 1,000 watt amp at a 400 watt level for the purpose of headroom. Applied correctly the amp would likely be powering a speaker with a power rating at or near that 400 watts, yes, no, does that even matter? As stated before my confusion comes at when the dynamic peak or crest of the music is played couldn't the extra output (headroom) drive that speaker beyond its linear limits? Without knowing with certainty where in its travel the driver starts to become nonlinear and how much power it takes to move it to that point it would be a possibility correct? From that point then can one not assume that the distortion one meant to avoid from clipping with the extra headroom was just traded for distortion from moving the driver to the point of nonlinearity? I'm not doubting the usefulness of having the headroom, and I'm probably missing another important point somewhere but that's where I'm coming from. Dear god I overthink everything, lol.

Word. Less power means there is less excursion so the driver will remain further within it's linear range, creating less distortion. While this does make a great deal of sense to me it also seems a little against the grain from what I typically see with SQ setups. It seems a lot of SQ oriented setups run several times the rated power of the drivers to keep the peaks from the dynamics of the music clean and distortion free. I believe you mentioned running 600 watts per channel to the Bravox 603CF's when you were running them. Yet it stands to reason that it's pushing the driver beyond it's linear limits to do so. How does one find the happy medium? As I'm diving deeper into the SQ arena questions like this one perplex me.

Yes it would but staging and imaging are hardly at the top of the priority list when running that large of a sub stage. I mean is it really a concern? Focusing on making it listenable at those decibel levels would be the main concern from everything I've read and understand. That's where the difficulty really lies and why these guys kinda laugh out loud at people when they say they want a front stage to keep up with ~150dB+ for $200. I tend to stay out of these threads because I have a hard time understanding why it has to be the front stage keeping up with the subs instead of the other way around. If the budget, time, knowledge or any combination of the three or other factors keep a person from building it that way then why not just build what one can within their given restraints and turn the sub down to match. When you go to show it off or demo a sub stage like that for someone the last thing that's typically on their minds is the front stages ability to keep up. But they might very well make note of it sounding like crap which is why I've worried much more about how it sounds in recent years than how loud it gets. Sorry, I'm done rambling now.

......

These questions are just some I'm bouncing off the wall, more or less because I'm trying to learn more and more about the T/S that make or break a driver for use in a given application. I have been looking around, reading, trying to learn more about driver parameters, what they mean, and how they correlate to using them in the real world. I'm still learning and have a long way to go. I came across a driver that is labeled a midrange however it has a Fs of 95hz and from everything else I'm reading in the T/S and see on the FR plot it seems to me to be more of a full range driver. What I stumbled across is the ETON Symphony 3" Midrange and aside from the crazy price for the pair I'm trying to understand how it's a midrange and not a full range. Sean, you also mentioned something about the "distortion profile" on the FaitalPro 3FE25 as well. An explanation of what that is and how you find/figure out what that is for the raw drivers a person looks at for running active like this would be fantastic. I'm assuming it's a graph, plot or some other information that's probably not available for every driver out there also. On drivers that a person would choose for use as a dedicated midbass, more specifically in the type of application that Jared and I are finding ourselves in, what are the more important things to be looking for. I understand the Peerless SLS's are a great driver and should serve me pretty well but I'm always looking for the answer to "What can I get or do to make it better?" I'm still thinking it would be worthwhile to go ahead and get do the enclosures in the front doors even for the SLS's. Between issues with rattles I know would pop up and making sure I can get the most out of the drivers that I can and it's hard to see how I could do that running them IB vs. an enclosure either sealed or ported though my intentions are for it to be ported.

een zee chat

In there....

As soon as a couple of financial quirks get worked out I'm ordering two or three of them.

I like the title of the thread. My response is this, isn't overkill the name of the game? We have members here who are putting 8, 10 and 12 inch drivers in their doors for midbass duty alone. Others are running subwoofer and amplifier combinations that almost put them on NORAD's radar watch for WMD's. No one here has small goals or dreams for their audio setups. I agree, go for both. Chances are you'll need it in the future anyway.

My vote is on the Deka Intimidator's. I've seen a few of these HEAVILY abused and lived for years. One in particular was fully discharged more than half a dozen times, used to jump start some big rigs, ran stereo equipment, all kinds of bad stuff and the same guy used the same battery until he got rid of the truck it was in after 6 years of abuse. That, along with the price, was why I went with one in the Jimmy.