altoncustomtech

This is one of the quick designs and drawings I had made up. It measures 36" W x 16" H x 26" D as I had mentioned above (the extra 6"). The specifications are 4.5cuft NET volume tuned to 32hz with ~80sqin of port area. This is just a quick and basic drawing of what it could look like. Modeling the enclosure like this is how I know the 10's wouldn't fit on the top face of the enclosure.

I just did a quick drawing on the 10" box. Unless two are put on top and two on the front then the four subs aren't going to fit, there's just not enough space on any one face for them to fit without interfering with the port wall or a box wall. I'm not sure how good an idea it is to put the subs on different faces either. I could see where it could possibly cause a loading issue, at the same time I can also see where it wouldn't be an issue, I'm just not experienced enough to know the answer to that.

Sure it would. For the 12's it would only need another 6" to keep the recommended 4.5cuft NET volume and get ~80sqin of port area which would be plenty sufficient. For the 10's it would need another 7" to keep the recommended 5cuft NET volume and get ~80sqin of port area for them as well which will do nicely. What does that extra 8" consist of? It's not the remaining room between a wall in the vehicle and the enclosure is it? You'll need room between the enclosure and any surface for the port to breath. Another issue you may have with the four tens is fitting them all in the enclosure.

I have to disagree on both counts. The NET enclosure size has to be down close to or at the minimum recommended for either option and the port area has to be way too small (at least for my tastes) to get either the 12's or the 10's in an enclosure that size. If you go by the quick and easy calculator on carstereo.com (which is usually a bit smaller than the Small method) the port area is well below what it recommended just to fit. For the 12's to fit within those dimensions the NET enclosure size needs to be 3.75cuft with 54.375sqin port area tuned to 32hz. That port area calc says ~76sqin minimum. For the 10's the NET enclosure size minimum recommended by SSA is 4cuft and it has to have ~49sqin port area tuned to 32hz to fit. That port area calc says ~82sqin minimum. Usable I suppose, but not optimal. For what it's worth I sure wouldn't recommend either configuration to someone as I wouldn't use either configuration myself. It would be a great fit for a single 15" ICON though. 3.5cuft NET with ~58sqin port area tuned to 32hz.

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I can see them fine as well. Jared the enclosure looks great!! You did a clean job on it, especially the carpeting. Still can't wait to hear your thoughts on the sub too!

Yeah those XCONs would definitely kick some ass but he's trying to run closer to $600 total on the budget AND have the subs/enclosure removable. Being removable wouldn't be too easy with about 100lbs worth of subs plus the weight of the enclosure. Hell my Q's are a fair bit lighter and removable as well. It takes two people to do it carefully enough so I don't have to worry about dropping it. Besides the DCONs will still offer plenty of output. OP, dollar for dollar I think you'll find the SSA subs, no matter the series, will stack up against equivalent subs from the well known brands with ease. Very few companies offer drivers that off the performance, quality, and reliability these will for the money.

It's impossible to say just how long it will take them to reply. Considering the nature of the issue I would resend the email if you've not heard back from them in 24hrs. Did you order the sub with dual 1 or dual 2 ohm coils? That amp is rated a fair bit above the rating of the sub at 1 ohm. That's not a big deal for an experienced user, however considering several of your questions I tend to think you don't have the experience needed to safely use that amp with that sub at full tilt. Now, if you ordered the sub with dual 1 ohm coils with the intention of using the amp at a 2 ohm nominal load then its definitely a good match as the amp is rated for 1700wrms at 2 ohms. If you did indeed order the sub with dual 2 coils then I would recommend the brz1700. The need to upgrade the alt will depend on what kind(s) and what number of batteries you plan on using and what kind of voltage drop you experience. I believe in always doing a big three no matter how small the system. I've sen it help some small electrical issues in vehicles that didn't even have systems in them due to such horrible factory grounding. More important is the enclosure you're going to put the sub in. The sub in a properly designed and executed enclosure and installation powered by only a few hundred watts can outperform a horrible enclosure and less than ideal installation on 10x the power. Do you have a design yet? Are you building it yourself? Have you built any before?

Well I don't know the reason why spanky is considering a c pillar wall, but I know the reason I'm looking at doing one is to blow away all the nooblets around here. No one near here has a wall of any kind. To hell with numbers I just like to be different.

Yep, C pillar wall as Dave stated. I plan on doing one with four 15" DCON's myself in my Blazer playtoy project vehicle. It's a big deal to do a wall though. A lot of planning and hard work is required to get a good fit and finish along with proper specs for the right performance. I'm not looking forward to doing the one in that Blazer, lol.

Yes, if the name used for the billing information does not match the card it will typically be declined. I would wait for Fi's reply to your email on the situation. Your dad may not appreciate the bill when two 18's show up at your door, lol.

Did you make a payment from your bank account through paypal? If so then that E-CHECK can take 5-10 business days to clear through the whole system. If you used a credit or debit card then it should have been pretty much instant. If you paid using a bank account as the payment source just have some more patience. If you used a card then it may not hurt to email Fi and see if maybe something got crossed up on the order.

Thanks, I made that post before seeing or reading anything about the server change. It made sense when I saw that. I'm not certain the weight is posted correctly. It's after 3am right now and while the SSA store won't load (probably issues due to the server switching, best time to take things down for those kinds of reasons are the middle of the night when traffic is lowest) the 1800Woofers store would and it shows the same 20lb weight for the 10, 12 and 15 inch sizes which I know isn't accurate. I can remember the shipping weight being right at 20lb for my sister's 12" but the 15" I bought recently from a member on here weighed in at 28lb shipped. If the DCON 10 is heavier than the JL 10W3 then I can't imagine it's by much at all. I see what you mean about the price too. That's got to be the cheapest price there is on the JL and due to that fact I would definitely imagine it's not going to be coming from an authorized dealer/distributor. Also, when you open the page that shows all the prices sorted in price+shipping order the cheapest price is $175 as the other stores that show up with a $147 price don't have free shipping. JL Audio will not honor the warranty for any product not purchased from an authorized dealer/distributor so you have to make a judgement call on how important that is to you. JL makes a great product and if you decided to go with the JL I know you wouldn't be disappointed, but the DCON's will save you a few dollars and its my opinion the DCON would effortlessly compete with the JL on all fronts if not exceed it.

to the forum!

What the hell? I thought for sure I replied to this thread, along with a second post in this thread by you OP. I'll reply again though. What kind of restriction are you going to have on enclosure size? It seems like you'll need it to be fairly light if you're wanting to be able to easily remove it. I would suggest a single DCON 12 or a pair of DCON 10's for several reasons. First being that the enclosure size for 10's or a single 12 will be very close with the distinct possibility for more output from the pair of 10's due to the extra cone area and increased power handling. Second the subs themselves are relatively light in comparison to others. Third the small amp that would be needed to run either setup would be a bit less expensive to attain which would help stay well below the budget. Fourth, the smaller amp would also very likely not require much in the way of electrical upgrades if any which helps a lot in the realm of usability and budget as well. The DCON's may be lower powered subs but don't let them fool you they're true performers. My sister has a single 12" DCON in her Durango and it is truly fantastic. Very good and articulate response that sounds great and it can also get plenty loud enough for most anyone who she's demoed it for. If I were forced to replace the Q's in my van with her DCON it wouldn't upset me much at all, except for the money difference, lol. Also, for making the enclosure easy to remove you might look into Neutrik Speak-on connectors. They're not real expensive, are non shorting by design and can be disconnected/reconnected with power applied.

It wasn't me who dropped the ball I hope. There's always a possibility that you'll run into trouble with a center port. The port area or tuning may have to be far from optimal to fit the port length inside 20" of height.

Yes it would, the shape has no effect on the response of the enclosure. I just used the dimensions of that enclosure I built way back when. If you want to post up your dimensions I could maybe help you come up with a more space friendly enclosure.

I know everyone my sister show's her DCON to is always impressed. She says she always has them listen to it first, then shows it to them. They can't believe it's the only sub in the truck. I recommend them A LOT because they really are a great value. Whether the mic has a hard time with the sound or not it sure seems like they're really giving some output. One thing I noticed is that they seem to really be doing well covering their full range of bass.

Same as last time.... Anyone who's as bored as I am....

Here's food for thought while you're considering it.... 3cuft NET tuned to ~33hz with 42sqin port area... Infinity keeps the T/S on that driver locked down, can't find it anywhere on the web, but I built one like this for a guy locally about five years ago for a pair of 10" Infinitys with the variable Q interchangeable motor vent thingy. Sounded very nice too.

But that's our point, you can have BOTH from the tens you already have. If they're not playing low enough for you now then you need to try a different enclosure. What's the specifications on the enclosure they're in now? My bet is that it's either too small (if sealed) or not tuned low enough (if ported).

The enclosure seems to have turned out very well. Is it and the subs performing as you had hoped? One possible solution to covering/finishing the enclosure might also be something like bed liner. Gives a nice textured finish and is tough as nails. I've been very happy with how my amp rack has turned out and it's holding up really well.

to the forum!

Yeah that's exactly right. I guess I'm still having a hard time understanding where the question about the power is coming from. The LOC can handle up to 400 watts of input power which it will never see even with today's higher powered factory setups. Like Tirefryr said, some of the newer units already have low outs for the factory amp. If yours is one then you may not even need the LOC. If it doesn't you may look into finding a full out processor like an MS8, BitOne, CleanSweep, 360, etc. They generally offer a better overall solution to the problems faced with factory HU signals than even the LC2i can. They are more expensive but can be found used for a decent price from time to time. I found an open box MS8 on eBay once that was otherwise perfect and new that sold for $155. Oh how I wish I'd had the money at the time to have bid on it. Another problem with my understanding may be that I'm zoning on Ambien, lol. You might just ignore everything I just said. I'll reread it tomorrow and see if it makes any sense.

Why are you wanting to hook an LOC up to the output of the amplifiers? Are you using the factory HU in the car? If so the speaker level inputs go into the LOC from the HU, the resulting signal from the low level outputs of the LOC go to the amplifiers. If you're using an aftermarket HU then why do you think you need the LOC? What is the function you're trying to perform?