altoncustomtech

Well I'll get the final drawings and cut sheet posted up tomorrow morning in time and ready for you to build.

Typically that's the best configuration for SUV's. As always every vehicle is different and with some testing it could be different for your truck. Depends on how important it is to you as to whether or not its worth the trouble to test it. If you'd rather have subs and port back its no problem at all to make the change. Once a final design is decided upon then we can put up those drawings and a cut sheet.

Well, after running some quick numbers I've got this drawn up real fast. It's 6.75cuft NET tuned to 31hz with about 109sqin of port area at 48"W x 16" H x 26.75" D. There's no bracing or double baffle drawn in here as I only meant the drawing for initial opinion purposes. With panels as large as several of these are I would recommend at least using some dowel rods to brace it up. If you want a double baffle or different bracing I can draw that up too. Any changes to the size and shape can easily be done as well, as I mentioned before that's plenty of room to play inside of. Onto the pics of the drawing.

I'm not the least bit familiar with what orientation works the best with a Civic (assuming the car in your profile is the one you're speaking of). Hopefully the other members on here with that experience can chime in and help there. The max dimensions you listed should be just fine for a single 12 ported, they come to about 3.68cuft GROSS. After sub and port displacements for about 40sqin of port area and a 32hz tuning you can fit a full 2.5cuft NET space in those dimensions after running the numbers. That space is right at the top of the optimal spec for the Fi X and IA Lethal Injection, at the bottom of the optimal spec for the GCON and a good bit above recommended spec for the SA-12. Which means that depending on the sub used and their respective displacement a person could play with extra port area and tuning to achieve great results in the exact same dimensions with any of those subs. Also, considering you'll be looking at having more power than those subs are rated making the enclosure on the smaller side of the recommended range would be advisable for mechanical handling reasons. It all comes down to which sub you want to use and the power you'll be using it on (that dts1500 is rated 700@2 ohms and 1000@1 ohm). Personally I would opt for a larger enclosure and get a 4ohm DVC configured sub ran at 2 ohms. The 700 watts is plenty enough to get any of these subs working really really well and at 2 ohms it would be much easier on the electrical system in that little car.

For future reference, please use punctuation. It's hard to follow the train of thought without it. It's never a problem when it's going to take time to get something, we're all budget constrained, believe me, especially this time of year. The extra time is generally useful to ensure that you're buying what you really need and that you have everything else ready to go. Get me the maximum dimensions you have to work with along with how you want the sub and port oriented (sub and port on same face, sub firing up with the port firing rear) and I'll get you something drawn up. Everyone one of the subs I've mentioned so far can be rebuilt. Fi and SSA recones can be ordered directly from their respective websites and the subs pretty easily rebuilt. The Sundown subs can be rebuilt as well, you'll just have to contact them directly to order the recone I believe. As far as a great everyday sub, Fi, SSA, Sundown, Incriminator all make great subs for daily use and every one of them is repairable in the event of a failure so it kind of comes down to preference and budget.

Upload them to photobucket first. Then click on the share links line in the share dialog box and click on the "IMG" code line. It will copy the "IMG" code to the clipboard automatically. Then just come to the forum and paste the link data into the reply box here.

2.25cuft per sub is the optimal size for the subs. My sister has a single 12 in that size tuned to 31hz and not only does it sound phenomenal but the output is amazing. There's really not much use in tuning as low as 28hz either. A box, with common chambers that's 6.75cuft NET tuned to the low 30's will be fantastic. What coil configuration did you order, SVC or DVC? If you're certain those dimensions you posted are accurate I would be glad to help you get something designed and drawn up.

What do u want for the rev665? I'm very interested depending on what ur wanting for it.

Jroadtatts did an enclosure like that for his Accord. Though it was for a single 15" BTL the concept is exactly the same. There's a build log on the forum here.

We can help you come up with an accurate enclosure design for the sub, that's not a problem. A well designed and built ported enclosure can sound great with a good deal more emphasis on the lower frequencies than a sealed enclosure. If the CVR is making noise then I wouldn't worry about it much at all, it's already got a problem. Build a box that is ideal for something like a Fi X series sub or the SSA GCON, Sundown SA-12 or whichever sub you decide to use. You can always drop the CVR in it just to play with.

Boston GT2125 is a great amp that does 400 @ 4 ohms bridged.

Fi builds fantastic subs. They're worth every penny! With that amp I would recommend the Fi X series or the SSA GCON. Most importantly, what were your plans on the enclosure? Subwoofers in general perform best in custom built enclosures, not the crappy prefabed enclosures that are purchased off the floor of a retail store.

Great! Thank you again Sean.

AWESOME! Getting a hell of a deal on an amp AND helping out with a good cause, what an opportunity. Was a great thing to donate like that, my hat off to you sir.

You're not kiddin' at all. I wanted one of these bad when the post about Best Buy went up, by the time I had the funds available they were gone.... Well then I'm glad you got it, I was just gong to toss it in the closet for future use. Enjoy! Thanks, and yeah, that's where it's going for me for the time being. It should be part of a decent little project I'm going to start on once I get the engine fixed in the intended vehicle.

Wasn't going to let it get away again, lol. You're welcome sir, and Thank You. Shipping instructions should be in the paypal message, same place as the DCON.

You're not kiddin' at all. I wanted one of these bad when the post about Best Buy went up, by the time I had the funds available they were gone....

Payment sent.

I'm buyin it!

Everything has some inherent distortion in it, in some shape or form, even if it's barely measurable. It was pushing that poor 8" beyond it's limits. Between that and the horrible quality of the mics they put in these cameras I hear a lot of distortion. Now, when I was standing there recording it, as long as I didn't push that free air 8" beyond it's limits it sounded fine. I bet it would drive just about anything just fine. I have no direct experience with it tho since we've never actually installed it, aside from what we did for the video and pictures.

Just realized I never posted the video. Watch and judge for yourself. LPF was turned all the way up, SSF all the way down, and gain about half way just like the photos above. http://s889.beta.pho...CN0324.mp4.html Not a great video, but it does demonstrate it working. It seems to work just fine. Without installing it in the Jimmy or Van I can't do much else to test it or prove it.

It was bought used. Every mark, scratch and imperfection on it was there when he got it. It's never left the closet in my house except for showing to someone or for pictures until I hooked it up to show that it works.

That's true, and I agree no one helped him with the specific question, but it so so damn hard for me to help someone do something I KNOW is wrong. lol

They definitely look schmexy. Is there any chance we could get some T/S data? To read the description on the website of them they sound like an amazing set for the price, but I've been skeptical about that kind of information lately. I'd love to have some hard data available for the guys who know how to read and use it and see what they say about the set. Hell for that matter, I wish there was a handbook or tutorial on how to read and understand what the data really means and how to use it properly.

He's sanded a good spot for his ground. Also to clarify, I said he could use a piece of wire from the jumper cables as a TEMPORARY ground wire until he got things straight. It's a 240 watt 2 channel with a 25 amp fuse, just about any clean piece of metal should work for him. As for the issue, I think it's gotten to the point that he really needs to go buy a cheap little DMM. Something other than the ground is going on.