altoncustomtech

Happy Birthday dude!

There does exist an actual "golden" ratio, but it's not practical for use in the car audio world in most cases. Believe me what you have lined up is just fine. Monroe City is about an hour North of Evansville or an hour South of Terre Haute. It's a little spot on the road just outside of Vincennes. If you were close enough I'd be more than glad to help out however I could. Using plexiglas in an enclosure is typically done by guys with a little more experience, but I think anyone with build experience and a good eye for details could do it. Hell the first time I used plexiglas in an enclosure was on the box for the Fi Q's in my wife's van.

Lol. It's not that bad. I've seen much worse. It's an XCON actually that I'm using though. I ran ur numbers real quick and tho you did include the driver displacement the RE calc does not figure for port displacent either. Although your tuning will probably still be pretty close. I would build it and see how it goes if I were you. Also, nice choice on the sub. My sisters DCON is quite the amazing little sub. Be sure to really take ur time if u do go with the plexiglas. If its not done just right it will leak and the enclosure will not sound good.

to the forum! Be sure to ask plenty of questions. We'd rather see you spend your money right the first time!

Happy Birthday dude!!

Congratulations on the purchase!! You're going to love that sub for sure. Like others have said, that box may be rough and not as visually appealing as you would like, but we all have to start somewhere and everyone's first box was rough. It's like any other skill, it gets better with time and the more you do the better you'll get. Don't be afraid to post the pics up, no one here is going rip on it or anything. Aside from the occasional tease we do strive to give good constructive criticism and most members here are very respective of that and respectable people. So go on and post up some build pics, I'd love to see them as well.

You're welcome man, that's why we're on here. I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts on it. I'm a proud owner of a 10" XCON as well, though I'm still working on getting things done and getting it installed. I'm going to be using passive radiator's with mine rather than a standard ported enclosure. I'm excited to hear what you think of yours, I know I want to hear mine really badly!

If nothing else you should be able to order a new one from Fi. The connectors the tinsel leads are soldered are just screwed to the connectors in that black plastic piece. It should be quite simple to repair as long as there's no other damage. Sounds like you're about to take advantage of a great find! EDIT: LOL, and there's Nick to the rescue! Jumped in there just before me.

to the forum! Where at in Illinois are you from? That's a big build you're about to embark on, looking forward to seeing the build log.

In the center should be just fine. Things are looking pretty good. Looking forward to hearing what u think when it's done.

Thanks. Not only did it save him from a whistling port, but the tuning should be correct as the dims I gave him account for sub and port displacement as well which I doubt the calculator at 21volt does.

I don't recall the terminals being on a "plastic" piece on my Q's or any of the Fi subs for that matter. hmmmm looking for pics now... EDIT: Verified in pics of my Q's the terminals are mounted through holes in the frame with a plastic spacer/insulator. If he's referring to a plastic tab that they're on then I would worry about the validity of the item. If he's referring to the plastic spacer/insulator then it shouldn't be a big deal to repair. BTW I agree it shouldn't be left and used loose, if it doesn't tear something on the tinsel leads up it could short the amp....

The smell from silicone should disappear as soon as it cures, or at least the worst of it. Glue has a tendency to shrink when applied like that and crack, which doesn't do much to help seal any seams, especially if there's a gap. Other people use fiberglass resin and things of that type, but the smell from them is even worse than the silicone. It's not much help, but that's my general findings. Silicone is just hard to beat for the job.

230 was the original price you had listed lol. I edited the OP.... EDIT: Went back and changed the font to bold and red in color to show emphasis.

It's in the ballpark of where you need to be anyway. Others may and will have some other ideas, or maybe even a better design, but at least we're getting you headed in the right direction.

If this doesn't come out clear enough let me know, I'll email you a PDF.

How's this for an enclosure for you. 1.5cuft NET with 32hz tuning 30"w x 16"h x 11.25"d with 21.75sqin of port area (1.5" x 14.5") should net you better results than the one that the 12volt calculator made out for you. If those dimensions will work for you, I'll post up a cut sheet for you as well.

I can appreciate that, but in order for a ported enclosure to work properly it will have to be sized and appropriately spec'd out. Let's start here, what are your maximum dimensions? What is the orientation you want, sub up port facing rear, sub and port rear, sub up port up? Got the 1.5cuft and 32hz tuning, with the max dimensions we can hopefully get you a better design. EDIT: Also what sub are you using in this enclosure? We'll need to know what it's displacement is as well to tune it properly.

That's NOWHERE NEAR enough port area. You've got the right idea on how to build it but some serious work needs done on the numbers you're looking at there. What frequency is that tuning supposed to be at with those port dimensions? Are you restricted by space, is that the reason why you made the port so small?

It's been a week. I forgot to mention all dealings on this will go through me, you won't have to put up with him on this. Price lowered to $230 plus shipping from 47557 BUMP

It's been a week. I forgot to mention all dealings on this will go through me, you won't have to put up with him on this. BUMP

to the forum!

Thanks man, if it works out it would be great, but at this point it's just too tough to make the plans to be there. Thanks also on the comment on the craftsmanship. If I were really worried about it I would have gone through a bit more labor and got it really looking good. I didn't because of all the work I do with the truck. I didn't see the point in making the amp rack super pretty as it will get beat up pretty good with firewood, dogs, etc. Which is the biggest reason I'm making the enclosure removable, so I don't have to worry about damage to the sub or PR's. I'm also really glad it gives you some ideas for the future, I think it's one of the biggest reasons build logs should be done. My family and I wish all the best for you and your family as well brother. Times are tough, we all need to hang in there.

Thank you for the kind words brother. If all goes according to plan it will be one of my favorite personal builds as well. Robust fairly accurate output in a smallish size is the goal. Still a ways to go before we know if the goal is met.

Okay, the amp rack is done, installed and the 125.2 is running the Bravox components like the clean powerhouse I expected it to be. Those components have been well worth the modest price I paid for them while using them on the HU and with the amp running them that is even more evident. I have A LOT of tuning to do yet with the new found power, but so far the difference is exactly what I expected. Although I do have to say that the internal amp on the HU is definitely a powerful little chip and ran the Bravox's quite well considering the low power. As for the amp rack, I'm quite pleased with how it turned out except for a few little things, nothing big enough to really bother me, I just know I could have done better with it. On to the pictures. Here's the pics of the final assembly. Went together just like it was supposed to. Here's a couple of pictures of the ground for the battery and 125.2. I bolted the grounds to the floor with a cable running to the frame. I also covered that bracket on the frame and where the cable bolts to the bottom of the floor with the bedliner I used on the amp rack to keep the connections clean and prevent rust but didn't figure it was picture worthy. The pics jump right to the installation at this point. I just didn't see the need to include everything in between. Here you can see the amps mounted on the rack with the bedliner all done on it. This is one of my little fuck ups from getting in a hurry that I'm hating. I got my router with roundover bit laid out and ready to go before I applied the bedliner but got in such a hurry that I completely spaced picking it up and using it. So none of the edges or corners are rounded like they were supposed to be. I figure if something ever happens and I have to redo something I'll do it then and refinish the bedliner on it. Got the cables all pulled out straight and ready for it to go in. Here's the XP950 sitting ready to be connected and installed. Got the battery connected and set in place in the rack. Everything was measured so closely that I won't have to worry about it going ANYWHERE in there. Getting all the wires and cables pulled up through the board and laid in place. Here's the rack set in place over the carriage bolts. As you can see with the bolts and wing nuts holding it I shouldn't have to worry about the rack going anywhere and it makes it quite easy to remove again if needed. The last one is a bit of a reach, but again, everything was measured so well that my arm still easily fits in there to get to it. Got the wires pulled up and connected to the amps. The power wires connected to the front battery. And lastly the finished product. The things that annoy me with it finished is that the top board of the rack isn't as close to the side of the truck as I had planned, even though it was just right on the test fit it somehow came out with about a 3/8" gap. Not bad, but it shouldn't have been that far off. The other thing, if you notice the empty hole on the back of the rack there, is that the remote knob wire ended up being about 8" too short to reach the 1500. Easily remedied with a phone wire extension cable, but still annoying. So, besides the lack of rounded edges, the gap and the short wire it pretty well came out like I planned. Onto the enclosure build!!!