altoncustomtech

Happy Birthday dude. Hope it's a great one!!

I think it's a fantastic thing no matter the day or time. To offer up the deals that you guys did during the first OD sales was amazing, such as the $139 15" DCON for $39. One hundred dollars off the price is borderline absurd, lol. I agree with the others that there shouldn't really be a set day or time and just a quick little hint up somewhere to tip people off and make it a bit of a treasure hunt.

Hate to say this but actually that volume on the port is likely a bit off unless you've already calculated for the thickness of the boards that are going to be making up the port walls. It's not too hard to figure, but they have to be included in the calculation in order for the volume to be totally accurate.

to the forum!! You're gonna love those subs. They should definitely impress you on both their output and how good they sound. Truly an all around performing driver.

to the forum!!

hmmm.... gotta see what I can do about that... I've recently found a use for both sets now I just have to find the funds....

Happy Birthday dude. You know, Acidburn is a chicks handle don't you? (LOL Hackerz FTW!!)

Aaron, do you still have the CX60CF coax's in stock?

I dunno what your budget is but if you're looking for something that won't require a monster amp or add a ton of weight to the car and still sound and pound like a champ then I'd recommend the SSA DCON or the Fi X series subs. Just my .02

I just looked at the amp you have in your signature and it has the pre-outs/passthroughs labeled as output (looked at a 10zx400.1 picture though). All you have to do to eliminate the Y splitters is connect the RCA's from your HU to the sub amp then connect your highs amp RCA's to the output RCA's on the 400.1 That is if you're still using that amp.

Does your subwoofer amp have RCA pre-outs or pass throughs? If it does then you can run your RCA's from your HU to it then connect a set of RCA's from the pre-outs/pass throughs to your highs amp and eliminate the Y splitters.

I assume that's a single 4 ohm. I wouldn't be the least bit afraid of running 450wrms to that DCON, a little overhead is a good thing though I'm not sure how close to rated that amp will do. The mrp-m650 is rated 400wrms at 4 ohms and would be a great amp with a little overhead. It would be my choice if I were you.

I have to jump in, in agreement. Not only do they offer great products but the forum itself and their customer service leaves nothing to be desired IMHO. A person just can't ask for a better place to talk car audio, cars, etc. and then when you want to buy a product be able to jump right up and get all the info you could ask for and in many cases buy it right off the same site. Keep up the great work fella's, you've got my support!!

I don't worry about break in on subs either. It's pretty pointless. Though, on a side note, depending on the engine, going all out on it is the way to break it in. Ferrari does it in a crazy way, much like this. I wouldn't do that to anything of mine, but it is fun to watch!!!

Oh you can guarantee some traffic I'm sure.... and I would LOVE to get a 15" DCON for $40 if possible.... I'd kill for that deal...

By the video it seems as though it's not sounding too bad at all. Congrats on the great work as always....

Jus kiddin' bro..... HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!! :gift: :gift: :gift:

My RSD's have been stuck on my HU in my Jimmy for quite a while now since I cannot seem to make the time to build my amp rack and install everything. They do surprisingly well for being on the HU, a Kenwood KDC-X492. I know they have a lot more to offer than what they can give off just the HU's power but they do surprise me from time to time at the output they are capable of on that power. Of course proper sound deadening is playing a key role in that result as well, that cannot be overlooked whether you're amping the components or not. Since you're dead set against amping them, that's the best answer I can offer. I have ID CTX's as well, but have no idea what they sound like as I've not had a chance to play with them yet for the same reasons nothing else is done.

ChILL, I think you're a little too caught up on the "rule of thumb's" that are so widely found and used all too generally. The amount of port area a person uses in a design should be based on the parameters of the driver(s) being used. There are good formula's for determining the best port area for a given driver and even several calculators that make it easy to find as well. That being said, there are many many reasons to go higher or lower on port area in a given design, so even going with what is best for the driver according to it's specifications may not always be what a person should do. IMO you've given good reasons as to why you thought 8 cubes was too large and why the port area was too much. However, because the fact is that EVERY design and build are different it's usually best to try a design based on the best compromises you can make and make adjustments from there. I do agree with you that it should be build right the first time, but using the same basic parameters for every build isn't a good practice. Sometimes it really does have to take a few tries to get it just right.

I'm with Steve. What would it take to get sent a good stack of these to hand out? Between the car club members, their friends, high school kids that come by for help and everyone who checks out the van when they hear it I could get quite a bunch of these moved. Would love to get some of the people in this area educated by the forum and get some more SSA products in use out this way.

While the Fi BL's will break your budget a little, IMHO they're worth every penny and will likely fit the goals you listed above VERY well. There's lots of other choices out there, but not a lot that fit with both the power you're wanting to use and in your budget. Offerings from companies like Incriminator Audio, DC and maybe the Sundown Nightshades or the Z will be close to fitting the bill as well.

I too am declaring myself ineligible for a free prize as well for the plain and simple fact that it doesn't feel right to take something from someone who's already lost so much. I never got a chance to play with a SoundSplinter sub but I sure wish I had. Doing research on the ICON's, Fi's lineup and of course the SoundSplinter lineup is what brought me to this wonderful forum. If it hadn't been for the great thread I read on the SoundSplinter subs on another forum it may very well have taken me much longer to find this place and for that I have to thank you Mike. Best of luck to you on your future endeavors!

It kinda sounds like he doesn't really know what he wants to do with it at all. Except for the not modifying anything part, which REALLY limits the choices and possibilities. One possible solution is to use a pair of those Tang Band 6x9 subs, as I think you mentioned. That would eliminate the use of a relatively large amount of space in that car. Also, you'll likely want to find an amp with a smaller footprint than the 100.4 as well. It's a pretty damn large amp that there apparently there isn't any real estate for. I've been at work since 3am, so any other thoughts or suggestions are a bit tough to come up with at the moment. Hell, for that matter what I've already said could be a complete 180 from what I meant, but I think a build in one of my favorite cars is pretty kewl in and of itself.

Whether a person likes AQ products or not, everyone has to admit that's one hell of a deal!!

Out of idle curiosity, which Bravox set is it? Just an idea, someone on here was selling an old school JL 3-way set. May not be a bad option.