CrazyKenKid

I didn't think they were for sale yet! lol but then again i might be behind the times!

hey if you need help with a box design I know a super nice guy who can make you a damn nice box! if you would like his info just drop me a p/m here (private message) I added this post because you mentioned you were in need of a smaller box?

x2 step up to a bigger gauge wire! especially if you plan on running a bigger amp down the road! and yes 4ft will be fine!

the long run I have used with a battery in the back (near the amp) was about 2-3 feet! why how long is your ground run?

It better not be. lol better not be

but he also said that the protect light is coming on... why is that coming on for? and i think i remember reading a F/S post where the LED was broken!

OP can you find the for sale thread?

if the protect light is coming on right away when you plug the remote in there is an issue there. the protect light shouldn't be on. the only time I have seen a protect light on is when someone hooks a low low low impedance up to the amp or clips the hell out of an amp! but these are happen during play time right. the other time when a protect light comes on is when there is an issue with say the fuses or something else is blown! do you have a dmm?

do you have ANY speakers sitting around? if not pop down to wal-mart buy the cheapest sub they have use it and see if the amp is working then return the sub! OR Hook your dmm up to the output of the amp and set it to VAC and see if there ANY output! if there isn't any output then the amp is screwed!

0.5 cubics for that 10inch nice! hey congrats on making a nice midbass!! tweeters?? no?

indeed those things are ugly .... no you guys are crazy the duck tape gasket is awesome! also I like the video near the end it sounded like Satan was in the speaker lol! also quick question the box that speaker was in how big was the box? .6 cubics?

o wow this looks amazing!!

hey if the alligator doesn't fit in the terminal simply put it over the screw! as long as it is touching the negative terminal on the amp you are good to go! same goes with the positive terminal. and if you can't seem to figure it out or something is wrong simple place a piece of wire say 2inch long stripped at both ends and then put one in the amp and one on the probes and you are good to go!

if i picked up two of these I think I would wire them in parallel then run them off of a 125.2 lol! at 4ohm which would mean what 200rms per driver! lol! also how much depth is required for these speakers! it looks like a good 3-4inch! if so I have that to spare lol! summer project here i come! lol

wow impressive! i was actually looking for a pair of killer mids to slam into my rear doors! what is the depth on these? like total length?

hey i forgot about this topic lol! yes the big probe goes on the positive terminal of the amp and the aligator one (black) goes on the negative part of the amp! and all connections are made on the output side of the amplifier (where you hook the sub up to)

never mind look what i found for you! http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifiers/495449-class-bd-vs-class-d.html and this http://www.carsound.com/news/archives/8_17_100_1.shtml and a little more technical answer.. a little http://books.google.ca/books?id=HrDXZctHzUQC&pg=PA189&lpg=PA189&dq=what+is+class+BD+compared+to+class+D+amplifier&source=bl&ots=YiEPLPr7_u&sig=kyp54_AxvNINvQ9t7WYEio0IcdM&hl=en&ei=C3wvTfCTGIXQgAfkj9la&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CCIQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q&f=false

BD? what you mean class A/B Class A/B: amplifiers remedy cross-over distortion to a great degree by combining the best features of both classes. The push-pull drivers are carefully biased just above their fully OFF state so that the transition between drivers is smoother. Therefore, each driver is never completely turned OFF. This alleviates most of the cross-over distortion at the expense of efficiency. An A/B amplifier is still more efficient (60 Ð 65%) than a Class A amplifier. http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/79383 and if your Sub sonic filter has the lowest setting of 50 all the frequency under 50hz like 20,30,40, and 49hz will all be cut off!

I am worried about losing my hearing but then again they do have hearing aids right! lol

I think it will be enough remember that is 3500rms at 1ohm for a burp have you factored in an impedance rise? for example when i burped my single 15inch sub on 5krms the impedance was riseing to about 5ohms so my sub was only actually seeing about 2600rms when i was burping at 40hz now if i wired my sub lower the impedance would have went down and when i burped at 40hz the ppower getting to the sub would also increase and most likey raise my db score! or murder the sub! lol so first why don't you install the above equipment get a clamp meter and then do a few burps and find out what your impedance rise/fall is then decide from there if you need more batteries or bigger alt or...or whatever like people say install it all and see if it works well or not but my opinion is what you got wil work out and I think you will be happy with it! but jsut give it a try and report back! remember this is a burp maybe 10sec just enough to get a good reading! and get a few friends to help you with this or a meter that will HOLD the highest number!

aww i thought caps had there place but it wasn't a big place! plus 1 for you kind sure nice explanation!

I don't know who kyle is but just because someone else can doesn't mean everyone can! kyle might has more batteries kyle might have bigger batteries kyle might be running 2 alts! remember kyle is kyel and you are you! just because i am running 5krms to a single 15inch NS v1 doesn't mean everyone else can! lol

well 3500 watts on 12volts = nearly 300amp to power that amp at full tilt! your alt is 180amps and your two batteries have a combined ah of 200ah? I think you will be fine! just roll with it! remember rule of thumb if there is 200amps of fusing on the amp you need at least 100AH!

16v alt for stereo, stock alt for stock electrical. or step downs well i know how to charge them and you know but... does he know, was the question! hell I knew someone trying to run 14v off of his 12v alt! ya he told him he was dumb! he though the 14s would work just as well on a 12v since 12v charges at 14.4....

off topic but how are you charging these 14volt batteries?