CrazyKenKid

ya i missed a few picture over the weekend! looks good so far!

lol nicely put honda and OP sorry i screwed you up some i didn't mean to!

wow nice questions i am subscribed and interested in the answers!

the big 3 that alt which is 200amps at idle and some battery in the back say kinetik hc2400 that way you have head room to upgrade and buy a voltage meter to keep an eye on all your stuff! and report back if it isn't enough you will need another battery.

umm good point didn't' think of that! no it isn't sealed off yet i am going to wait until i get a setup i am happy with then i will seal it all off with fiber glass or something so roof it is then! unless someone else has some input! thanks

tonight I was able to deaden 3layers on my rear deck and 2 layers on the rear seat (where the seat sites) and 2 layers in the trunk itself. now my question is since i am nearly 100% sure i only have enough deadener to completely deaden one thing, which thing should i deaden first? either the back doors and the trunk lid or the roof? which would be of more benefit and why? see i want to get 1 good layer of deadener on the roof and then a second layer if i have enough left over BUT if i do the back doors 3lay thick or 2layers and the trunk lid i know i will not have enough left to do the room my car is a 95 grand am the sub and port is firing forward into the cabin and the rear seats fold down. i know with the rear doors wide open i barely break 125db but when they are shut i hit about 145db so i am thinking i should do the doors and trunk lid and then order some more for the roof or should i do this the other way around? please let me know what you guys thing and thanks for your time Kenneth

so your tell me that playing music could drop the resistance to an average of 0.5-0.125 when his starting impedance is 2ohm? 1800rms at 2ohm = 30amps 1800rms at 0.5ohm = 60amps 1800rms at 0.125ohm = 120amps i didn't think music could drop the average impedance by so much my mistake lol i know on a burp my d1 sub wired to 2ohm when to nearly 5ohm on a 40hz burp! (single 15inch sub)

when i was running my sae1000d amps strapped at 2ohm i had a POS(piece of shyt) battery upfront, 120amp alt (stock), and a single kinetik hc2400 and that supplied amply amount of power/current to my amps! i only had a POS battery upfront b/c my engine bay where the battery goes is SUPER SUPER small!! also have you looked into say maybe 2-batcap 2000's? I had 2 batcap 2000 support my single saz2000! it keep it alive and kicking forever!! also don't forgot you say 1800rms at 2ohm but music is dynamic and once you fact in impedance and box rise and fall your average rms might end up to being about 1500 or less or more and 1 last point lol (as if i didn't say enough) 1800 rms at 2ohm = 30amps! and you have what a 60amps alt.... maybe with the battery upgrades you Might NOT NOT need a h/o make sense?

umm ya a little tight for space could you please take a pic of EVERYTHING those zoomed in pics are a little tuff to make out where in the car they are. maybe stand on the back bumper and get a good GOOD (not blurry) top down view for use to see. also how much room down you have from the glass to sub/box?

wait a second.. you state early that you have a wire from your amp going to the HIGH part of the crossovers right? and nothing going to the LOW side? so you are saying you DO NOT have your mid-basses firing and ONLY the tweeters are firing? will bi-wire (jumping the low and high) make a difference it might b/c they are made to have both the high and low side of the crossovers hooked up ALSO if your amp outputs 75~rms and they are rated for 150RMS this means your amp is clipping and that is why the light is turning on so first lets try to jump the high and low turn the hpf up some and turn the gain down some more. keep in mind each song you play will sound different and could make the light come on again UNLESS you normalize all your music (1 set volume) then report back with your findings!

now tell me more of this fuse that lights up... can you take a pic and show us or a video or something b/c i don't know of any fuse that light up just for kicks! i am thinking MAYBE your amp is flicking into protect due to an improper gain setting ro some kind a warning light? then again i am unformalized with this amp so ya sorry man o wait i just read your post title.. are your crossovers flashing? or the amp? if it is the cross overs i would say run the bi-wire and see if it fixes it and if it is the amp we need to look into it some more. at any rate pictures videos more info would be cool how is the amp grounded?

umm i think i know what it means by bi-wire as for a flashing fuse.. impossible maybe it is a clipping light? please note in tihs pic how i have a little 2inch long wire JUMPING from the tweeter (highs) and running into the woofer (lows)

o i c! well for sure get some pics up tomorrow and i am sure myself or someone else could think of an idea you missed! jsut be sure to get some nice shots of looking down, look from the front and looking from the back.. hatch back car? and i for sure know what you mean about bass it is addicting lol hell i got 2-saz2500 lol and now i wnat 2-3500 lol

hey don't count out the 1500d lol! have you considered just upgrading the amp to say a 2500 or 3500 or one of those 3000's?

you don't have room... although you have room to put 1 on each side?

the sound deadener i like to use is made by B-Quite! it is a canadian product which ships to america for a cheap price! it doesn't cost to much and the cheap stuff is all i use and it works pretty good! check it out the good stuff http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html the stuff i use http://www.b-quiet.com/extreme.html

i never use crimps to connect wire i either get longer wire or i solder them together. i don't really trust crimping personally. as for the THUD noise that isn't to cool I know my system used to have it untill i disconnected everything and rewired everything which includes a RELAY!

hey get well soon! and make sure to eat some chicken noodle soup! it is good for the soul and body! so how is the sundown health plan?

i would NOT make them that long maybe 14 at most, mine are about 3inch.. could you maybe fit them on top of the box? that way you can make the box wider and less tall to fit the amps? or how about stacking the amps on ONE side of the box? that idea could work if you do something as shown in this pic! please note on the pic that the 2-sae1000 are stacked with a solid piece of steal (3/8 round stock i believe) and that piece of round stock has 2 tapped holes, 1 on each side that way they screws will screw in tight and maybe use some lock tight also other then that if you want to run 26inch maybe step up to 4awg wire and use a 4-8gauge reducer? although that might be a bit over kill but better to be safe then sorry maybe?

aww one of those jeeps! be sure to use sound deadener! and good luck! also buy a voltage meter so you can keep an eye on your voltage while playing! make sense i would recommend the stinger blue volt meter b/c i use it and i like it plus it is blue like the sundown audio turn on light on the amps! lol and if you do buy a stinger be sure to SET / calibrate the meter in reference to a volt meter. to do this remove the cover and find the yellow Phillip screw and turn away! lol http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SVMB-VOLTMETER-BLUE-3-DIGIT-DIGITAL-DISPLAY-NEW-/360194054151?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53dd3d1807

hey man my current setup is (WAS i am in the process of getting 2-12inch ns in a 6th order box) 2-SAZ2500 2-15inch NS v1 2-NSB90 (batteries) 1-H/o (220amps) 1- Big 3 in 1/0 wire some sound deadener 2-(sets) Zapco RB 13.2 (comps) 1-SAX100.4 and that is about it! i hope this helps you with your decision I used to have 2-15inch NS v1 in a down firing 4th order box but i am changing that to 2-12inch in a taped 6th order horn box design. see in my little car i didn't have enough air space and i was choking my subs out so in the long run i am switching to 12's to give them the ideal air space! with 2-15inch i hit 146.98db's on tl with 1-15inch i hit 145.00db on tl at any rate there you go!

o lol ya it was worded a bit weird and that tossed me for a loop! at any rate i think you will for sure need another battery even if it is something small like a batcap 800 or kinetik hc 600 or something along those lines. keep in mind if the amp has 100amps fusing on it that amp will make around 1200rms and your alt is 95amps at best (Stock) so you are already in the hole for current supply and demand and playing your setup for a prolong time will lead to draining the front battery and if that dies lol how will you start your car lol! sorry for the confusion earlier lol and keep in mind 8awg can support like 75amps of current which is ... 900watt (75amps x 12 volts) at best but then as you have more wire (length that is) that wire can carry less and less current to the amp also then you factor in impedance rise, IE my d1 sub is wired to 2ohm and when i burp at 40hz my impedance rise is nearly 5ohm. but that is for a burp and since music is dynamic (ever changing) you can't always bank on a rise! it will also fall! read this for a better understand or to broaden your knowledge.

his sig says 3-d3100 and a h/o of 320amps powering 2-3500 i would say you should be okay as long as you keep an eye on the voltage but then agian each of those amps can draw what nearly 300-350amps... then again with car audio you never know till you try! but i say you should be okay to rock and roll!

better yet why do you want to add 200watt? it isn't going to be like OMG amazing lol! maybe spend that 200$ on a battery instead that way it will help out your 1000 and make it shine!! know what i mean! also 14volts system off/on/full tilt/burp/startup.,,, what is that 14 volts coming from? just the car being on i assume the real issue is when you are playing music and there is a DRAW on your cars electrical right! to see if your alt can keep up with your sound system or if you need to get a secondary battery. you should play the music as loud as you can and then report back with a new voltage number and go from there well not as loud as you can but as loud as you are comfortable doing

so you want to upgrade from a 1000 to a 1200 setup? why? you aren't going to hear a difference 200watt isn't much. remember theoretically to hear a difference you need 3db and to obtain 3db you need to either double the power or double the cone area! but in real life you will need more theory is just theory and more so of a guild line. lol. as for your voltage of 14.23vdc is that at full tilt? or your foot on the pedal to 4000rpm? or what? b/c hell most ppl system sit at 14 volt with the car on nothing playing right.