CrazyKenKid

nice well make srue you post a new thread with your views on them, i am looking forward to it!!

question did you ever get those horns hooked up? if so how do they sound??

hey man here is how you wire a secondary battery in also it shows the big 3 mod! and if you need some more help just drop me a p/m i can help you with anything!!! seriouly just drop me a p/m i can help you with anything and you cna ask dumb questions to lol!! i like to help first timeers lol!! (old timers)

wow sounds awesome!!! sound likes sundown audio should step up and become one of the elite 10k big @$$ amp makers in the world!!!!!!! keep in mind they don't NEED to make any 10k amps they are already well known

sweet!!!!

no kidding!! where abouts in ontario? windsor? sarnia by any chances?

o that is good! also i have heard that using screw terminals is superior to post style terminals? (my batteries are all screw terminals). any comment on that thought?

also a fast question, where you grounded the rear battery did you first grind it down to bare metal? i can't tell from your pic, it appears to still have paint on it. also in your first pic of the front battery you have 3 sets of wires coming offf of it...1-alt, 2-rear battery,3-? i also noticed you are using your front posts along with the top mounts? p/s i have never had a red top before are you allowed to use both sets of terminal at once?

wow that is cool! so what he is saying with the klmx wire if you exceed 20feet or 250amps you will get a ~10% loss in power!! thanks for posting that! what i was getting at is use a 250 amp fuse going from front to back which can supply up 3000, and then run another run from the back battery to the amp which again cna support another 3000. since you are tapping off of another battery. errr....double check that now iam not sure, b/c in a parrellel setup the voltage is constant and the currnet adds up,...so what happens to power then? will it vary with the current draws? but total system will remain constant.... let me look into this and i wil follow up with a better answer lol.!! sorry for the confusion!

lol POS alt! story of my ilfe also! lol! and good idea on going dc i have heard lots of good stories now explain why you wnat swap your wire from klmx to kolossus? there is only a 50amp difference, and why would you wnat more then 300amps of current for? hell 300amp at 12v=3600watt and 14v=4900watt and you will only be using about 3000~3200? so no real need to be unsafe and toss a 360amp fuse in a 300rated wire. now if you wnat to STEP UP to 2/0 or even 3/0 or 4/0 there is this website whihc sells wire for cheap called: www.weldingsupply.com - main menu so no real reason to upgrade from klmx to kolosssus you will not get any real benifit and just for reference 12v @250amp= 3000watts. in my car i am only runing a 250 amp fuse to supply my saz2000 and my 100.4 and when i go to install my other saz2000 i will be upgrading my wire or my number of runs!! play it safe and your fuse don't make your music louder!!

the only reason why i did 2 runs (1neg and 1pos) b/c i had a lot of 1/0 to use up, plus i believe it helps with the flow of current. being so your batteries will be in a closed circuit? i think that is what someoen told me to me about 4years ago when i was running wire! i think for my next setup i am going to do another 2 runs of 1/0 wire from front to back to help out my electrical as in give the current more places to flow!! (lol make it choose) since in parellel current adds up! other then that you have a combined ah of 105ah! whihc is JUST enough ah to run that amp!! nice! did you plan that? (well just enough to run it then you factor in the alt and you should be good) also for pos alt to battery i would fuse it b/c it is safer. and one more question before i go to bed, why didn't you ground your alt to the chassis also? or is the alt grounded to the engine? (mine is grounded to the engine so i jsut grounded my alt rather then the engine due to how easy it was to get at the alt compared to under the engine lol! )

So you wnat to run ANOTHER run of wire from the front to the back JUST to power the 2500? why not just go from the rear battery to the 2500? shorter run of wire!! plus the batteries are in parellel right so if you hook the 2500 up the front or rear it doesn't matter! ALSO one more thing, DID you NOT use a FUSE from the ALT to the battery??? also 1 more quick question did you do a negative run from front to back of the car? also i assume you did the whole BIG 3, groud both batteries, ground engine,ground alt, and bigger pos from alt to battery

you know i remember this link but i cna't seem to find it now. i am still looking and i am on page 6 of the sundown forums.. but if someone does find it post a comment say please sticky this!

from picture 2and3 (front and back view) see all the sharp outside and inside edges. those are the ones i would round, although i am sure others say it isn't a big deal, and by round i mean take a 2inch disk and but a nice rad on them(ie more spl dust lol)

lol dust ftw!!! it is coming along very nicely!! I how the blue looks!! and i was always under the impression that you have to round the sharp corners of your port off to prevent port rattle and make it easier for the air to flow...

question why don't you just run your 1/0 to the 2500 with an inline fuse of 250amps? and just use the distro for the 2 other amps? i am currently running the kolossus wire and i running a sax100.4 and a saz2000d amp. i have 1 run from back to front, in the back is a pair of batcap 2000's. also what kind a distro block are you using? b/c i believe ANL goes from 60-300amp fuses. does your distro block accomodate for mini anl and anl? and i wouldn't run a 300amp fuse in a 250amp rated wire. it isn't safe. and if something where to happen and your car caught on fire (extreme case) your insurance company would lol at you and not give you any coverage b/c you decided to go with a bigger fuse! O well i wouldn't do it! I would juse use a separate run to the 2500 and if you wnat use a distro block that takes 30amp and 60amp mini anl and call it a day! something like this Knukonceptz product detail for KONFUSED 2 WAY DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM and this for the 2500 Knukonceptz product detail for IN-LINE WATERPROOF ANL FUSE HOLDER W/ FUSE or Knukonceptz product detail for KONFUSED HIGH CURRENT IN-LINE FUSE HOLDER I hope that helps some!

lol look at that! he already responded! lol ignore my post!

here is mine although mac is the owner of the one you posted i think.!

you think you found your new H/U! nice!! but which model? double din or single din? and that is very cool video you found of the new pioneers to hit the market!

If you noticed anything then you had the rest of your system setup wrong. There will be NO SQ difference, not even close. actaully come to think of it was most likey setup wrong as it was my first h/u and didn't know to much about any of the settings. but when i get my next h/u a poineer 880phr i was shown how to operate it and i gues that contributed to why i thought my pre-amp volts= better! but thanks for setting me straight on this!

the one on ebay is his name ibander or something like that? if so he is a member of this forum and he is very nice to talk to! jsut drop him a message

i have heard that the higher the voltage on the preout rca is the LOW you set your gain on the amplier, thus meaning the amp has to work a lot less harder. BUT also keep in mind if you EVER measure your voltage at the rca it will ALWAYS be super low. like my h/u is rated at 5volts and i only see around 1.5volts. also something else i have heard is the higher the voltage the better the sound sq will be b/c the higher voltage resists noise... but i am 100% sure on that stuff it is jsut what i have heard. BUT from my own experience going from a 2v to a 6v and then back to 5v from 2v to 6v i noticed a difference then from 6v-5v i didn't hear anything dramatic! so i hope that helps! and i am sure someone will be on here soon to bash what i have said! ;o!

ya some nights i am slow! it happens lol! and i also jsut relized he said 2.2 cubic INCHES lol! i guess i was thinking cubic feet lol!! thanks for the correction though! Well it's just pi*r^2 * length, which for a 3/8" rod about 20" long is only 2.2 cubic inches. I don't think you'd notice that in the sound, haha. ? 20" = 20 feet? lol that is alot of rod! the max i will need is about 11.75 which is about 0.00075 ^3 lol as for the wood idea as a brace i am worried b/c right now my box is about 6.1~ at bestat about 40hz (not build yet but soon to be) so with wood i fear it would be to much and i would lose out on cubic volume. but will a flat head screw pull though the mdf? keep in mind the head is on a taper so it has a lot of surface area. o well i will keep playing with the idea! 20" = 20 inches 20' = 20 feet

Well it's just pi*r^2 * length, which for a 3/8" rod about 20" long is only 2.2 cubic inches. I don't think you'd notice that in the sound, haha. ? 20" = 20 feet? lol that is alot of rod! the max i will need is about 11.75 which is about 0.00075 ^3 lol as for the wood idea as a brace i am worried b/c right now my box is about 6.1~ at bestat about 40hz (not build yet but soon to be) so with wood i fear it would be to much and i would lose out on cubic volume. but will a flat head screw pull though the mdf? keep in mind the head is on a taper so it has a lot of surface area. o well i will keep playing with the idea!

yes a few things i forgot! lock washers locktite and cross threading! (cross threading is almost as good as contact cement or welding LMAO jk) and i think i will play around with that baffle idea!! and thanks everyone for your suggestions! they are awesome!!! Kenneth