bigrank916

You just answered your own question. So, do you hear a beat while listening to AM radio? If not, then dont flip it.

If the amp isnt under warr, I would take the top off and check it out. Cant hurt.

Welcome and glad you could join us . Please read new member guidelines and give us more information cause with what you gave us nobody can help you dude. thanks sorry about that 12 inch audio pipe txxapx 12's dual 4 ohm powered by a audiopipe 3000 watt amp alpine 9886 4 mb quart 6x9's in rear deck 4 mb quart 61/2 's two on each front door powered by 1200 watt ma audio amp 2 yellow top's and a 250 amp alt This is the FR: 23 - 1000Hz For really deep bass, build the enclosure to the largest recommended size and tune around 30-32hz.

If by efficient, do you mean output? A sealed box is going to deliver the best sound quality. They recommend as low as .6 cuft. How small are you planning to make the enclosure? The amp will power the drivers just fine. As long as the two drivers wire down to one ohm combined to get the most out of that amp. according to the space available 24w 13h 12d, for a combined 1.57cuft., now, I'm negotiating another memphis st1000d to power each woofer independently and thinking of build the box with separate chambers. my question is, in this case, should I try to go ported, and if that's possible do you think doing separate ported chambers will be good?, I think I forgot to mention that this is going to be a downfire box. The 1.57ft3 will actually be 1.33ft3 after driver displacement and will be fine for both of them if you use a sealed enclosure. However if you want to go ported, you need almost 1 cuft per driver. According to your space available, you would only have room for one if you went ported. The lowest recommended size for a ported enclosure with two 10s is 1.8ft3. Downfiring and a common chamber enclosure will be fine also.

X2. Same goes for the efficiency as well. The higher the load, the more efficient the amp will be and the lower, the less.

Dont forget a build log!

Id say the DC would be the loudest. Give me a money tree and I'll find out for you.

I would use a ported enclosure for that if you want it to be at its loudest. A sealed enclosure for that probably isnt going to have much sound quality anyway. The problem is your amp is a two channel that doesnt bridge to 2 ohms. The only way to run those two together properly would be wiring each voice coil on seperate channels of the amp. Which would be 150rms per side. Hope that helps.

1.21 gigawatts, I like that. I thought this topic was as stupid as the title. Somebody close this thing.

If you listen to modern music as in current hip hop and rap, you will not need it and are asking for trouble if you do install it. Impious' description should answer as to why not to install it if your listening habits are mostly rap and hip hop. If it's free take it and sell it! X2. Why the hell not? Put that sucker on ebay for a sucker.

That was nice of you to say...and a smart choice with Sundown.

Huh?

The first reply! I was starting to think my sense of humor sucked!

They are nice to have. It will give you a real time reading on what kind of voltage you really have. You will need a 12 volt relay to hook it up though. I got my stinger guage and the relay from darvex.com for about $40. You can wire the power straight to the amp so you know exactly what voltage is at the amp instead of the battery. There is a topic on here about installing one. Use the search to find it and it will show you how to wire the relay with the gauge.

What do you do for a living? You are in Europe driving on the Autobahn while working? Whatever it is, sounds good to me. I manage the sales and technical people for a high end German manufacturer of measurement equipment. I see. Nice. Spreken ze deutsche? I dont but I like to be the dick who asks!

I dont think that will help in what you are trying to do in that truck Chop. Just make sure the ones you have are top notch and you should be fine. I ended up welding bolts to my frame by the engine. A couple washers and nuts and they are the best grounds Ive ever had!

X2. Thats what I used too. A bolt where the factory ground was on top of the intake manifold. Worked perfect because it was so close.

Another stock alt is not going to do it with a 3500D. They are talking about specialized alternators for car audio if you didnt know. You will NEED one of those. Wait on the batt until you get the h/o alt and big 3 finished in 1/0 wire. Another batt is not essential right now. Yes you can ground to the chassis. Its the best place. Oh, I should have been more specific. I am still currently running the PDX right now so its only around 1100 watts RMS. The biggest alternator will be a 136A on a stock vehicle. I plan on upgrading to a HO (mean green or iraggi, which is better?) as soon as i buy the 3500D. I will get a Kinetik 1400 for the rear right now, and when i buy the 3500D, I'll move the 1400 up front and get a larger kinetik for the rear. So the biggest question now is, when wiring my new battery, will i NEED to upgrade to 0 AWG now or can it wait until i buy the 3500D? If i can leave my 4 AWG run for now, It will save me a lot of trouble. Also, i'm having trouble finding where to connect my engine ground the the chassis. Is anyone familiar with the 4.0L Inline 6 on a Jeep Grand Cherokee? BTW, all of my wiring is KnuKonceptz so it is decent stuff. Not looking foward to the extra $70 in 0 AWG wiring though. If you say this then why do you want to buy a battery now when you clearly dont need one right now? If you plan on running the PDX until the 3500D, you wont need another alternator in the mean time. If you do the big 3 in 1/0 now, which you will have to anyway with the 3500D, you will be fine with 1100rms. Quit trying to go the easy route and just get it done. As for Mean Green, never heard of em. Iraggi on the other hand is regarded as a quality product. There are a few others as well. Try drilling a hole through the chassis and use some bolts&nuts. That should work fine. Well, the reason i am planing on buying the kinetik 1400 is because I do a lot of playing with the vehicle off. I can get a really good deal on an alt (probably next to nothing) that is just a larger stock one because i know a lot of mechanics around that have connections. Remember that this is a jeep from 1993. That alt has a lot of wear on it, and it will be easier to put the larger stock one on now than to wait until mine fails. The 136A one will get me by until i can grab a H.O. one. As for the "easy route" thing, remember that I am funding this along with my insurance and gas on a minimum wage job and can only work on weekends. I WILL get it done. It will just be over a period of time. The chassis to engine grounds still have me stumped. The drilling and using nuts & bolts makes sense, but where should i attach it on the engine? I'm kind of inexperienced in the mechanical world, but I want to do it myself. Any other tips i could use? Thanks for suggestions. I thought you meant attaching it to the chassis. Use the same one the factory used. Just get the right ring terminal for the factory bolt.

i am looking at that polyfill suggestion , that will indeed be the next move. there are some pioneers thrown in the doors right now, no amplification, not sure of model number. (thanks Mikey) i will look into your suggested upgrade, it will be a moment before it happens though. i would like to use some horns in there somewhere and have been watching seliniums ( spelling) closely. chop I have those same ones right now Chop. Im in the middle of a build log for them in my doors but have been stalled on a lot of side projects and looking for work lately. Mdizzle was looking into them too. They are only $32 bucks a pop. I'll be sure to update. The polyfill sounds like a cheap alternative to building another enclosure already huh? I would definately check it out too. I think I heard on another forum about using the stuff from craft stores as the same thing. Idk for sure though.

If by efficient, do you mean output? A sealed box is going to deliver the best sound quality. They recommend as low as .6 cuft. How small are you planning to make the enclosure? The amp will power the drivers just fine. As long as the two drivers wire down to one ohm combined to get the most out of that amp.

damn slow internet

Another stock alt is not going to do it with a 3500D. They are talking about specialized alternators for car audio if you didnt know. You will NEED one of those. Wait on the batt until you get the h/o alt and big 3 finished in 1/0 wire. Another batt is not essential right now. Yes you can ground to the chassis. Its the best place. Oh, I should have been more specific. I am still currently running the PDX right now so its only around 1100 watts RMS. The biggest alternator will be a 136A on a stock vehicle. I plan on upgrading to a HO (mean green or iraggi, which is better?) as soon as i buy the 3500D. I will get a Kinetik 1400 for the rear right now, and when i buy the 3500D, I'll move the 1400 up front and get a larger kinetik for the rear. So the biggest question now is, when wiring my new battery, will i NEED to upgrade to 0 AWG now or can it wait until i buy the 3500D? If i can leave my 4 AWG run for now, It will save me a lot of trouble. Also, i'm having trouble finding where to connect my engine ground the the chassis. Is anyone familiar with the 4.0L Inline 6 on a Jeep Grand Cherokee? BTW, all of my wiring is KnuKonceptz so it is decent stuff. Not looking foward to the extra $70 in 0 AWG wiring though. If you say this then why do you want to buy a battery now when you clearly dont need one right now? If you plan on running the PDX until the 3500D, you wont need another alternator in the mean time. If you do the big 3 in 1/0 now, which you will have to anyway with the 3500D, you will be fine with 1100rms. Quit trying to go the easy route and just get it done. As for Mean Green, never heard of em. Iraggi on the other hand is regarded as a quality product. There are a few others as well. Try drilling a hole through the chassis and use some bolts&nuts. That should work fine.

You can get sound quality from almost any sub (probably not at high volumes), as long as your box is built right and to how you want it then it should sound good. All that how you want it to sound will come down to the box and not the equipment. X2. You can get a $25 driver in a proper enclosure to sound better than a $100 driver in the wrong one. I knew there was something wierd comparing the DP. Its up to you because they are all great and will sound great. Pending above...

You can add pics to the gallery. I dont know exactly how cause I cant upload for some reason. I use photobucket.

Ok. Are you looking for drivers to put in that box or will you make another? That still isnt too much of a description. You listed the Q which of course is the SQ orientated driver while the DP I think is more SPL orientated. It depends on what you are looking for. Do you want to put up big numbers on the TL or have a groundpounder? If not then the Q or something of that nature can be reccommended.