zerosktr111

Youd be suprised how far away you can be heard. I didn't think my car could be heard from far away because I had never listened to it outside of the car but then I let someone use my car and I could hear it for a few blocks quite audibly.

Also, should the subs/port face forward because it seals off the trunk from top to bottom?

Why thank you Jaycee I appreciate it very much. Now when my amp arrives I can start on my box.

Once I get my system all set up, Ill get some pix for you guys. BTW I really need some box design help so if you do that kind of stuff let me know asap! Were gonna need the max dimensions of the area you want to use for your subwoofer enclosure (height x width x depth). I know I was kind of waiting untill someone offered to help but the max dimensions are 30(L) x 40 (W) x 18 (H) And 18 in would seal the box off from top to bottom. I like lows but I also like output so I guess like 35hz tuning would be best for me.

Once I get my system all set up, Ill get some pix for you guys. BTW I really need some box design help so if you do that kind of stuff let me know asap!

that is a FUCKLOAD of cone area for a single sub though. 576 sq in of cone area lol.

I don't see why not as long as you can put the coil and the cone on the sub before it goes back to normal temp.

someone should do this with a voice coil and make the sub-woofer super efficient!!!

Yeah I should have lol. People on this forum have given me sooooo much shit about buying that amp. I can't really afford the expensive car audio stuff considering I am only a junior in high school and I only work a few hours a week. If im not really happy with that amp il just sell it and get a sundown 2000/3000d. This is more of a budget build anyways. After everything is said and done I should be looking at about only a grand spent on a real 2kw system. 50 cents a watt for a system is not bad at all imo. I know, was just giving you a little grief. At least you are close to Sundown and can pop in to check out equipment. Yep thats what I did with the z's. Cool guys down at sundown. For sure if I need to get another amp ill get it from them.

Yeah I should have lol. People on this forum have given me sooooo much shit about buying that amp. I can't really afford the expensive car audio stuff considering I am only a junior in high school and I only work a few hours a week. If im not really happy with that amp il just sell it and get a sundown 2000/3000d. This is more of a budget build anyways. After everything is said and done I should be looking at about only a grand spent on a real 2kw system. 50 cents a watt for a system is not bad at all imo.

Guess what I got yesterday!!!!!!!!!! Should be going in a 1997 Cadillac Seville These seem to be great and heavy subs, The smaller sub is my old pioneer that is also "1000 watts RMS" .I used it to show how big the Z15 is. Can't wait till my 2200.1 comes in!!!! Also, how does 6 cubes @ 32 hz sound? Anyone know how much port area I need for this?

So, what is the cause of "moving air"? There are two possibilities in my mind that I think would create this. #1. Air Displacement from the motion of the moving cone of the subwoofer. #2. Actual pressure (sound waves) moving the air inside of the car. In scenario #1 the key to moving the most air would be to have the most cone area, the most excursion of the subwoofers and to have a sealed box (ports have an opening in them so technically a port would help the equalization of air pressure inside of the car) This would also explain why Randy Kubek pretty much has a mobile wind tunnel because he has always ran sealed boxes. ( for reference) In scenario#2, there is much less needed strategy to move air because all you need is a certain DB level at a very low frequency. The main thing you would need to do is get a huge LOW tuned ported box and let the hairtricks begin. Sorry if I have come off really dumb but I am new to car audio and I was just wondering what the true cause of moving air was.

349 $. I thought I was getting a great deal. haha

by what great customer service they seem to have...no clue....where did you buy it? Paypal to steve miller himself.

You think they would let me get my money back? Wow, I regret getting this amp now.

Wut? Im talkin about the comment that Tirefryr said about my amp being shit. Yes, I now know that those type R's wouldn't work. I just want to know why he said that.

Really whats so bad about this amp? I kind of want to know now... I always thought RD was a very reputable company. anyone else have an opinion...

What? why these seem like REALLY nice amps. Thats a little severe don't you think?

Im down for some suggestions.

Oh, Any recommendations on other subs to get that are 12' or 15'?

So I just bought a RD 2200.1 on the pre-sale on **** and I wanted to get 2 Alpine type R 15's for it. I think I might be pushing it with these subs because the amp supposedly does 2800 rms @ 14.4 volts and does rated at 10.8 volts!!! Now I have seen some videos of 2 Type R 15's being pushed by a sundown 3K, Autotek MM 3000.1, and even an AB VFL 500.1. Do you guys think I will be o.k with these subs being pushed daily like this. I plan to tune the box to around 30 hz. Also what size box should I make?

Is there going to be a preorder on either the nightshades or z 15's?

Ya I had some problems there too. I asked if they had a 200 amp fuse and they said that I had no reason for a 200 amp fuse and they then proceeded to try and sell me a 140 amp circuit breaker which would NOT have worked AT ALL.

Nope, but these subs seem to be good for the money, and I kind of need subs that thrive in a small box as I have to fit them in my trunk. I would be open to any other suggestions though. Nothing more than 200$ shipped though. I do live in NC though.

Overall I was wondering the pros and cons of each of the woofers. I would be putting four of them in my trunk. Sq isnt much of a priority. Which would be louder and handle more power? Im lookin to run about 1000 rms each on whatever one i get.