Lucky 76

nvm thats pretty cool but n e amp of that power can do that its just why would u want to ? ... ur killing a very expensive amp and how did that not go into protect mode?

is it the same signal as the front rca output ... i do not listen to surround sound music or dvds so will the left rear sound exactly the same as the left front (same thing with the right side)? ... reason being i have 2 sets of components in the front and have my rears running off the high levels ... i wanted to run my front components using the front and rear rcas so i can adjust the kicks independently from the doors

ya thats what i figured too ... i just wanted to be sure

so each amp will have its own source (rear bat 1 for 1 amp and rear bat 2 for another amp) correct? even though my amps have a fuse rating of a total of 650 amps the batts should be fine with a 300 amp fuse rating? i understand the 300 because of the alt but how does this work if it is possible that my amps could draw over 300 amps of current?

i didnt even watch the video but judging by the title i can conclude that it is terrible

contacted rockford and they said the deck would be fine ... the guy told me he ran 8v off the deck and it ran like a charm

x2

i wanted to buy the new kenwood double din head unit ... it has a 5v rca output ... my problem is my rockford amps have an input sensitivity up to 4 volts ... what will happen if i run the 5v rca output to the amps? ... if i tune the amps with the h/u to say 75% of max volume will the voltage output be less (approx 3.75v)?

I have made two schematics. The second one is revised and I think it should work. I also have a few questions. 1) Which is a better setup? 2)What size fuses would go in each fuse holder? the amps have a 150 and 500 amp fuse rating and the alternator is 260 amp.

u know how much current draw? around 6?

u know how much current draw? around 6?

i wanted to take it off mp3s because my school has an online subscription but they need to be played using their player ... does anyone know of a monthly subscription website that has cd quality songs

well I AM A get an sundown saz-4500d amp so wat eva head unit could handle chinese junk i wanna get u kno so which name brand u really know thats good what? i think before looking at a h/u you should be concerned about your charging system ... judging by what i could read from your post it seems that you do not really have a clear idea of what you need as far as anything goes ... you probably want that amp because it puts out 4500+ watts ... the problem with that amp is if you do not have a good charging system your amp will either shut off or shut you car off on every hit because of drastic voltage drops... you are going to need an upgraded alternator, upgrade all your wiring, not to mention you will most likely have to run 2 strands of 1/0 to that amp, and most likely will need to stick a couple of batteries in

does anyone know of a good free digital rights protection removing software? it is a necessity at this point

alright i will do that then ... my head unit will be fine just running the rears?

na my infinity kappas had there own hp crossover that i was going to use ... it would match the xxxs xover at 3.5k ... the only reason i want to put tweeters in is because i have holes in my doors that cannot be filled ... i want my xxx tweeters to be on my dash tho because they are too big and hit when the door closes ... i figured if im putting something there to fill my door i might as well hook it up and just tune down my gains on my highs

Amplifiers Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Rockford Fosgate T8004 Components Fronts - 2 Sets of RE XXX6.5C Rear - 1 Set of Kicker RS65 Subwoofers 4 12" SSA Icon Electrical Excess Amperage 300 Amp Alternator (Being Replaced With Iraggi 260 Amp Alternator) Big 3 - 1/0 Gauge 2 Strands of 1/0 Gauge from Battery to Amplifiers should i just buy a cheap tweeter just to fill in the gap? why is it such a bad idea to run off h/u power ... wont the offset from having my rear speakers on the h/u ruin the head unit because i am only using the rear 2

you could try this one by the time you enter every thing you could be done with a plug and chug method btw i do not like the one on ssa it adds extra volume for the port and driver displacement. which increase total volume. this is why i use the one below with great success any ways there is a calculator and it step by step sorry had it in a word file for noobs which you more then like are not. http://www.ecalc.com/calculator/scientific/ use this calculator at link above square root key look like a check with a x inside powers of ten key looks like a y to the power of x av =10 lv=30 vb=864 do the this part first av(1.84x10to the power of key looks like y sub x when the calculator does the y to the power of x key it will put some thing that looks like a up side down carrot hit 8 then the equal sign. Then write the answer to all of the above down Next do vb(lv+.823then hit the square root key put in av then write the answer down Take the first answer and divided buy the second one Then take and put in to the calculator .159 square root of the answer of the two this should equal 40.63716007346 hertz for the fb Just remember you can plug any thing you want into av or lv or vb that the plug part Av =a 2 inch by 10 inch wxh or area of vent Lv = length of vent Vb = volume of box just try to keep the area of the vent less then a 9 :1 just divide like a 10 by 5 inch port in to this 5/5 and how many section of ten you get and 10 /10 and how many section of 5 you get this would equal 1x10inch and one 1x5 inch the 1x5 would pass but the 10x1 would not it to big here are some other formulas pie times radius squared radius is half of a circle and this trans forms a round to a square vent real quickly square root of “a” squared + “b” squared hypotenuse of a triangle and how to find it in inches Length x width x height Divide lxwxh by 1728 to get cubic feet or even multiply to get cubic inches Here is were the formula comes from http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=165 thanks for ur interest but i have already used the re box calc ..... hopefully it is close because i already built the box

where did it go!?!?!?

just curious of y it is a bad idea to use deck power?

the problem is if i take the tweeters out of the door and put a set on my dash then there is a giant hole in the door

i wanted to mount another set of tweeters in my door just to even out my h/u as i have my mids in the rear running off the rear outputs .... i was looking for a pair of tweeters under $100 ... they are running off the h/u so they will not be seeing over 20 rms ... i dont know if it makes a difference but all the tweeters up front are silk dome ... should the pair i am looking for be silk dome? ... also they need to not stick out so much as when i had boomer mcloud cut a hole for the door they cut it so close the the tweeter hits when the door closes ... it dosent tend to be a problem if the tweeter does not protrude to much and has some form of protective grille over it ... what would be good for what i am looking for ... no kappas as they make the internal amp go into protect mode and i refuse to believe the true 4 ohm that they state

i am almost tempted to make mini enclosures for my second set of tweets and mount them on my dash ... ill fill in my door holes with a set of tweets running off the h/u

x2 ... at my internship i pretty much solder everyday to build circuit boards and they taught me to heat the wire ... everyone has their own preference ... it is unlikely that you will get a cold solder joint