///M5

I have some to do upcoming...

How did you mix the concrete?

nice choice

More details please.

And they STILL give him a day.

Has to be that way unless Georg Ohm was wrong. Well, I was pretty sure Mr Ohm was correct (last I checked, at least) but shizzon worded his post in a way that suggested that wasn't the case. Ha, I read that post three times and couldn't figure out how he drew the conclusion which is why I clarified afterwards. Perhaps I should have been more clear in my response though, huh?

Pouring smoke under boost means he's not doing it right. Smoke does not mean power. i think it just has something to do with how the mod works.. once the boost builds up enough it stops smoking. in a very nonscientific test we measured a 0-60mph time of ~10sec, my friend said it was closer to 13-14 before. the mod consist of bridging a potentiometer across 2 pins on the fuel harness. here's something from a tdi forum "...what is happening is that the 10-pin connector (joining the main wire from the ECU to the Injection Pump) is being hot-wired into producing a different voltage, which alters or magnifies the ECU's signal in a similar manner that a Tuning Box does. This increases the amount of fuel the injection pump pushes and advances the timing..." You probably trick the engine into thinking it gets more air that it actually getting. Stupid mod and no way it will shave 3-4 sec off the 0-60 time. It will overfuel whenever he's off-boost. Hello high EGTs. Retune, bigger injectors nozzles, bigger intercooler (stock one is a joke) and bigger exhaust for starters. Now that's how you would go about modding a TDI, not with a resistor. What he said. Not to mention black smoke (aka soot) is toxic to the lungs and the environment. Except when it comes from a steam tractor

It's a Chevy, you shouldn't touch that POS at all.

Has to be that way unless Georg Ohm was wrong.

If you can prove it wrong, you'll rock the engineering world. Keep asking

This might be a stupid question, but what will you do with it? Just use it like any other modern tractor? LOL. I'd store it here: http://www.rollag.com/index.php and run it for four days a year during the show. Have some stellar memories growing up there spending time with my father and I'd like that to continue both with him and my children. I would kill to see something like that around here. Throw in some locomotives and scantily clad women and I'd be in heaven. Have a full size steam locomotive and even better I've driven it

Just need to find one for sale. I REALLY want a Minneapolis.

We can detect changes in amplitude much less than 3db. Under the most commonly cited test conditions we can detect a change in amplitude of 1db. That said I'm not disagreeing with your premise.....small changes in amplifier power are not worth worrying about. Is that over all frequencies? Because (personally) I could not tell the difference between 137 dB and 140 dB in the low end range. He used the word changes, not absolute.

So, instead of being the all-knowing forum chode that goes around trying to bring people down without providing any sort of help and/or explanation, why don't you shed some light on the subject and try to actually be an informative and helpful person instead of the pompous asshat that you have been playing for who knows how long? Do not let these comments ruin your thread. Arguing against arrogant comments is pointless. Lol. I didn't realize that a comment was arrogant in particular when its an open question. You guys really need to stop trying to read into my posts and instead take them at face value. I don't care who types what or for what reason I'll type what is on my mind when I read it. This is a forum or a place for discussion. Someone posts a picture of something and states it is something, it is a rather logical question if it isn't obviously that to a reader to ask why they think it is. The emotional reaction perhaps was inappropriate, but that works for both of us as I just copied his.

So, instead of being the all-knowing forum chode that goes around trying to bring people down without providing any sort of help and/or explanation, why don't you shed some light on the subject and try to actually be an informative and helpful person instead of the pompous asshat that you have been playing for who knows how long? So asking you why you think its a T-line is bringing you down? A little self conscious are you? As for the shedding light, I'd be glad to, but you ignored the segue to that step by refusing to answer the question. Real simple. Why do you think its a T-line?

You've done this before. It's tiring. The sub is going to be minimally loaded with the 45 feeding directly into the line. I've done this before; it works well. And you've done this before, it's tiring. That isn't a T-line.

Huh? Why do you think its a T-line?

So... you expect to see 14.4v at all times when running an amplifier? Also 1% THD is inaudiable especially at sub bass frequencies, I don't recall how much to go up to hear it.. but its a lot.. There are a plethora of other reasons why its a joke. Any reference to a test setup without reference to uncertainty in the testing methods is not valid. I also don't see THD spelled out very well, nor input excitation, noise measurements and so on. The test had reasonable intentions but the reality of it is that it is still fairly easy to cheat on.

7 months later and not on topic, but referencing only the last post in a method that isn't coherent to the flow of the thread (nor my memory) is where the dipshit comment came from.

The knock on class D is not related to reality. Just subjective nonsense. Same reason though I'd never again own anything from Linear Power. Those guys are so full of themselves for inappropriate snake oil reasons that their company disgusts me. They do not sound "better" than anything else and every single claim they've EVER made is of the subjective ilk with no foundation in science. Just huge e-boners. That being said, I'd definitely generically recommend Mantz's stuff.

@95 Honda See that what I am thinking and I am glad you brought that up. Strapping is easier, not better. Would you agree that series parallel is also the least efficient way of wiring up drivers or do you think it has no effect? Perhaps it wasn't clear enough. The ONLY benefit to strapping is to deal with an owner who bought the wrong coils (or only the wrong coils were available) to get the same power. The other losses 95 highlighted are not positives. And again, you can't change Ohm's law so don't try

Indeed, especially with a dipshit post like this: Since it is hardly about Fi and that was resolved, I moved this to the general subwoofer section.

Based on your comments (not your request) I don't think the w6 is at all right for you. You want louder and lower and haven't discussed the front stage which means to me SQ isn't important. You just want a louder sub that doesn't make things sound worse. That is easy and sure the w6 can do some of it, but that isn't its forte.

TractorTOP2

Not opposed to a big Reeves, big Advance, 40hp Avery, the monster Rummely, or an 85hp Case. If the right Buffalo Pitts came along it could be mine as well.