///M5

The exterior dimension of the box for my 8 was larger than my 12. The 12 was sealed. Small box and ported 8 doesn't usually work.

It will. The money just has to move here. Going to take at least another 20 years for it to be real mainstream, but its coming.

Holy effin' nuthugger with no idea. Let me guess, its the rep in Egypt

If kicks are in the play I like that idea as well.

That vehicle doesn't scream 3 way to me. If you have to, I'd put the mid and tweet up on the dash and fit the midbass in the stock location. Since you've ruled out kicks your only other real options is all in the door. Of course, you really should experiment as it will all depend on that passive. My guess is that the closer the drivers are to each other the better, but getting the mid and tweet up high might be more than acceptable as well. If it were me, I'd run something 2 way in that car and not 3.

Alright, today, NO second half BS.

Exactly why I wanted more info to recommend what I'd do. Doing anything based on my tastes is great for me.

What makes this alignment even desirable in the first place? Absolutely nothing.

Speakers should never mount on the door card, exactly why I was confused at why he was dropping them off. Until a baffle is in the door and you know how that is going to work I wouldn't do anything to the panels. If your goal was to glass some stuff on a reinforced door card then just use the components you have J.

Ports too small. When it is the right size the box will be too big. If you are running a single driver a 10" is usually a better choice.

you scared everyone away

What do you mean drop off the door panels? If you don't have depth then stack mdf.

I'd call that in phase, but of course from the box and acoustics perspective, not the drivers relative to their geometry.

What is it, in general? It doesn't appear to be a cochlear implant or bone anchored hearing aid. A device with a tailorable gain that vibrates the stapes.

Lucky you weren't driving

...err, saving the world

It's an uber cool product made by a company full of great people. Regrettably everything else I know about it is confidential.

That being said, it doesn't mean it won't "work". Everything about a car audio system is a compromise. Some you can choose your way around and others you can't. Personally my goal is to minimize those challenges of course dependent on budget, time, effort, etc.

Funny, I was going to post that up. It was sent to me though by the manufacturer.

My last advice was the thing I'd do if I were you. After thinking about it more, it makes a lot of sense. Use the car to train your ears. Install what you have cheaply and ugly by bolting some mdf to your current door panels and drive around listening. Come back with some specifics on what you like and don't and then we spend money. This way you are out $10 worth of mdf, have door panels that aren't that much worse than is there, and will make the right decision for YOU much better with some ear time.

Are you saying I have a half brother who is a mongoloid? Next the Fitard will get downskardome to go with his personality trait.

Car noise is the beyotch. Let me put it in perspective a little bit. If your ear was a perfect filter then even if you were listening to a 100dB note (let's say middle C) and there was a C# that was 80dB you'd hear it very clearly. However, your ear isn't perfect and based on both frequency separation and volume will do some masking. The Q or response of this filter is "fairly" broad, but has a reasonable roll off. This of course means that as long as your music doesn't contain all the same notes as your speech you should hear them of course with the ones being close being masked out. Distortion by nature smears the frequency response making these filters much broader and masking more of the speech. I super simplified that, but hopefully that helps clear it up even further. There are genre's of music that play through a broader spectrum ALL the time that will be harder to speak over, but I personally don't find that music interesting. To some its the notes, to some its the space between to me it is how the two interact with each other. And now, back to your goals. It costs you nothing to bolt a piece of MDF through your door panels (destroying them which you are going to do anyways) holding the comp set you bought. Why not do that and see what you don't like and decide if its worth the dough/effort to take it a step further. It is always easier to help someone who has done something and would like to improve than to specify what they should do. In particular since I am not trying to tell you what I would do, but what I would do if I were you and knew what I know. Trying to remove those assumptions is hard which is why you haven't seen a concrete recommendation from me. You'd surely get that if you install something and then describe what you like/don't like about it

My 2 year old can't make a mess that bad.

At some point two days ago I received a PM entitled: "you are an asshole....." My response.

He is such a dipshit.