///M5

In that price range, IMO you really should be looking at an active set if you can handle it. Not sure what you have for a headunit, but if you have a 4chn amp and a $600 budget and don't have an active headunit I'd still spend $300 of it on the headunit and the other $300 on drivers. It WILL have the potential to sound better.

the 'best' for a pair of sundown audio 3500's are worth more than my car ?... link please, sad thing its,i was expecting a smartass comment from you... thats all you seem to do lately. Search is your friend. Ask a dumb question get a dumb answer. Best is not a real qualifier. My answers are directly proportional to the effort the OP puts into his question. Pretty shitty to ocme on a forum and not at least try to show you searched and thought about your question before asking. Actually its despicable

The "best" cost more than your car, but don't make an audibke difference. Any reasonable shielded cable works. I also like the $ performance of the Dayton wires.

Not a body man TOP

I hope you wear a mask. Every time I sand. This time I was cleaning the floor with the vacuum, had lots of mdf chips to clean. As soon as I hit a small patch of FG dust, BAM, dust everywhere. And I'm going to move away from mechanical sanding fiberglass. Elbow grease = less dust in the air. You should start wet sanding. Or better yet, make a move to gel coat. How is that to lay down/change colors on? It's cake. It can be brushed, sprayed, dripped, dipped, hell pretty much any way you can think to apply something. I've brushed and used an atomizer for application before and it worked great. Hell, he could use tooling gel coat on his molds, get them perfect, then never have to sand anything, or use finish gel on the ports themselves and not have to paint. I'm not too sure about colors as I've only used black and white, but I have seen some that can be tinted and I am pretty sure you can buy it already colored. I want white. Want to do the side panels of my snowmobile. Surface prep? You're better off using paint in your case. I would only use gel coat when molding a piece from scratch, and I would paint or cover it as well if it were in a high-impact environment such as your sled. Are the panels plastic or something else? Plastic and a little flexible. Paint doesn't hold up well I read, but basically have no idea.

Slacker

I hope you wear a mask. Every time I sand. This time I was cleaning the floor with the vacuum, had lots of mdf chips to clean. As soon as I hit a small patch of FG dust, BAM, dust everywhere. And I'm going to move away from mechanical sanding fiberglass. Elbow grease = less dust in the air. You should start wet sanding. Or better yet, make a move to gel coat. How is that to lay down/change colors on? It's cake. It can be brushed, sprayed, dripped, dipped, hell pretty much any way you can think to apply something. I've brushed and used an atomizer for application before and it worked great. Hell, he could use tooling gel coat on his molds, get them perfect, then never have to sand anything, or use finish gel on the ports themselves and not have to paint. I'm not too sure about colors as I've only used black and white, but I have seen some that can be tinted and I am pretty sure you can buy it already colored. I want white. Want to do the side panels of my snowmobile. Surface prep?

Zaxxon ftmfw!

I hope you wear a mask. Every time I sand. This time I was cleaning the floor with the vacuum, had lots of mdf chips to clean. As soon as I hit a small patch of FG dust, BAM, dust everywhere. And I'm going to move away from mechanical sanding fiberglass. Elbow grease = less dust in the air. You should start wet sanding. Or better yet, make a move to gel coat. How is that to lay down/change colors on?

SnoBarTop

Probably go hit the bars on it tonight too.

Took tomorrow off, going to put some miles on the Rush and try out the new GPS & Riser

Did you input the T/S?

Sore throat from drainage perhaps? If so, you'll get to keep it for nearly two weeks. Fucking sucks. The clinics around here are booked out a week because of it.

The box is a major portion of it though and cabin gain is controllable via electronics. Obviously any anomalies due to the constrained space will also have to be dealt with. 95 was asking if you used the coils in parallel/series specifications on the driver and if the software then understood that. It can GREATLY change the response if you didn't.

That sniffles sticks around for 2 fucking weeks too. Everyone in my house had it. Get some rest to minimize it!!

A little Flora de Cana sounds good to me as well

s l o w

Seriously??? A set of ellipses and NO other punctuation?? Far as I can tell, its an AQ which is perhaps the issue.

They won't be the same product, but don't automatically assume that will make them worse

Hence why I work 2 jobs. I don't enjoy 50-60hr weeks for my health, although it does cut down on time I'm bored. I've worked nearly 60 hours a week my whole life. I don't know any differently.

I'm going to take a guess, their lighter / easier to maneuver (due to less weight) / engine lasts longer and rebuilding the engine cost a lot less Lighter is a good one too. And yes that helps maneuverability. The engines actually don't last as long, but per mile they are cheaper.

Power on every stroke instead of every other. Two downfalls. Narrow RPM band to deliver power - gotta love the belt drive which by default is a CVT (ie you can spin at max power nearly whenever you want) and the other is Emissions/efficiency since by default a 2 stroke dumps some gas straight through into the exhaust being they are both open at the same time. Of course, neither are issues on snowmobiles. Another HUGE advantage is cheap parts and simple design. Considering that it is a vehicle you run at WOT a great percentage of the time this is important as typical rebuilds are in the 10k mi range.

Umm, why does it matter if they are home audio or car audio? By default it is pretty funny to have car audio IB woofers anyways....