///M5

haha.. Damn you'e just a tall man.. sheesn i thought my dad was tall.. he's like 6'5". Our explorer fits him perfectly.. you may have to go to a much larger car. I agree the Caddy has come a long way. Personally i like the looks of the caddy. By size i think they meant the outside, length and width of the cars.. If i could own them it'd be a toss up. I'm partial to american cars.. due to My Grandfather working at ford for so long. I'd choose the CTS-V.. but i'm about 7 inches shorter than you.. *awaiting flames* Drive them both you will change your mind. Basing your opinion on anything else makes no sense. Very true, I'm just basing my opinion off of looks. Not in the market for a new car.. but surprised that something american made is competing with the M5 which is supposed to be stellar. But in the end.. Until i have a kid i won't be needing a 4 door beast. Although i'm lusting for a bigger car.. I like the looks of the Chevy Avalanche.. but still i'm happy with the 11' stang Not really competing. The M5 is from 2005 and being replaced this year. The CTS-V from 2009. 4 years is a really long time in the car industry.

I know what they meant, but obviously they suck at comparing cars.

As with all birds, except ones of course that you can eat the liver raw from. Then the liver is BY FAR the best part. YUMMY.

That is because you've never had one done right. BIG pieces of meat should always be cooked slowly. Frying doesn't do that. And yes an oven can yield skin that is equal to that of a fried bird, but it isn't trivial to get right unlike the deep fryer. You've perhaps seen those oil less deep fryers? Guess what they really do. lol. Don't get me wrong, the skin should be delectable as it IS the best part of the animal.

haha.. Damn you'e just a tall man.. sheesn i thought my dad was tall.. he's like 6'5". Our explorer fits him perfectly.. you may have to go to a much larger car. I agree the Caddy has come a long way. Personally i like the looks of the caddy. By size i think they meant the outside, length and width of the cars.. If i could own them it'd be a toss up. I'm partial to american cars.. due to My Grandfather working at ford for so long. I'd choose the CTS-V.. but i'm about 7 inches shorter than you.. *awaiting flames* Drive them both you will change your mind. Basing your opinion on anything else makes no sense.

They'll just make you want the 8's

And Matt, if you know where I can buy nice Heritage birds that aren't $8-10/lb please let me know. I almost shit when I saw what they were up to.

Just had the realization that I have new ovens and am hosting Thanksgiving. I don't really want to roast a practice bird, but also want no semblance of a failure either.

Go get 'em....and get ready for union fun, err.

Brad you really didn't say that strongly enough. Objective measurements of a speaker will show EXACTLY what it can do. There is no magic driver that can avoid Physics. If it doesn't measure or model well for an application then it isn't a good driver for that application. Doesn't mean it can't fit a niche, but it will mean that there is something that can do that better. Subjectively some idiot may like it better, but that just confirms their stupidity. All the forum boners over brands and hype over nonsense is incredible. Shows the power of marketing and the lies and BS that some companies use to promote their gear which makes me sick. I am all game for someone defending their product and stating what it can do, but as I said earlier in this thread: Subjective responses by judges who are already aurally challenged will NEVER impress me, but true measurements will. If you want to pimp some product feel free to post up some REAL objective results. If you are unwilling and will only throw down subjective nonsense then it is obvious you are hiding the truth.

Too bad that midgets take less room than babies

TOP

The problem with both is that when you are 6'7" a baby seat won't fit behind you in either. In the caddy no one can sit behind me, in the BM'er a midget could.

Just saw your note that it was for me *blushes*

Ha, roughly the same size? The M5 has WAY more driver space. IE I fit versus feeling like a very big man in a small car. If you drive both, you'll hate the CTS-V in comparison. Feels like a Japanese piece of shit. And yes I have driven both on the same day. Amusingly, I drove another M5 this week. And also amusingly I CAN lease an M5 for work as it fits my pricing requirements, but the CTS-V does not. Exclusively because of course they are all too new and I need an 07 M5 to make it work. Perhaps you should compare a 2006 M5 and 2006 CTS-V, then do the same for 2012. Of course that wouldn't fit C&D's prerogative, but it would prove the point. One other thing. 4.0/4.1 you aren't going to notice, the difference in the quarter you won't notice, but where you will is from 30-100mph. Guess which car wins there? Also curious they tested an M5 manual when everyone who has one knows the SMG is king. CTS-V has come a long way...but you drive both and if the M5 is $90k you think the CTS is worth $50k at WAY most. Funny how terrible car reviews are. Would I complain if I "had" to drive either? No. Other than when the GM plasti-shit started breaking which it will.

TOO MUCH TO DO!!

Supposed to run circles around the ZR-1 for less $$$. And looks like a fwd turd. Sure I am all for fast, but a car should stir the soul in that price range as well. If the only goal is to run circles around the ZR-1, but a 3 yr old Elise for $25k and spend $5k on some forced induction and you'll kill them both. I can't fit in an elise. It may as well not have a windsheild as I would still have to put on gogles. Okay, fine. You will fit in a Noble which may be similar money, but is WAY more of a car for those goals.

You can always get a regulated amplifier that will do the same power at either load.

Don't butcher the question. Lets consider the situation more theoretically. Lets say you have a perfect amplifier, that is setup exactly as stated. IE, 0% distortion and True power. One at 2000w and one at 3000w. Listen to your amp on one sub. Shut it off, get out of the car and switch amps and then sit back in and listen to the other. Will you hear a difference? No. You are getting close to a range where you could though. 2500w to 3000w no way in hell. 1500w to 3000w if you have good ears, yes. Now why did I make this theoretical? Because you are comparing amps that have WAY different ratings that what you stated. You can't compare a turd with a real amp. The Sundown 2500 to 3500 was a much better comparison, but again you could crank the gain on the 2500 and hold back on the 3500 and have the same average power from each. One would be a distorted mess, the other not. Either way, $250 isn't going to get you anywhere near that anyways. In your case you should find the best used amp you can get as you won't get anywhere near your goal new.

Come on. 0.80 Gross?? LOL. Obviously you have never built a real box. I have an 8" sub in a boxed tuned to 30Hz that is .65 cuft NET. Gross it is more than 3 cuft. 0.80 Gross will NEVER work. Your rolloff comments are absurd as well. Do you have experience with the SA-8 in a 30Hz box? Your personal testing must have been with a seriously poor design as it will easily play WELL beyond 42Hz. And now that we've cleared that up. The problem with an 8" for the OP and ported is that it won't fit the small box requirement that you may have defined by your demographic. Sealed on the other hand would work rather well, in particular if it can still give the output needed for what you are trying to accomplish. When I ran my 8" sealed it was enough to keep up with my front stage, but it ran out of steam for any basshead. Reference levels were tough on it as well. Can it work? You bet. The question is what compromises are you willing to make. Luckily in your case considering you are asking about SQ setups the front stage will make a WAY bigger difference than what sub you run.

Kickin the JapCrapTOP

Supposed to run circles around the ZR-1 for less $$$. I can spend $15K and have something that will run circles around any super car. . . It's still ugly to me. We think alike, although you might have a harder time with $15k than my $30k if it is all aspects of driving. Surely can be done though. I just chose the route where I could use the stock tires, suspension, and pretty much everything else.

I HATE people with extremely bright headlights (The HID's).. especially on raised trucks... My car is low so i get these assholes headlights straight in my face and i hate it.. even when my windows are tinted at 20% Same here. My last Mustang was the worst as it was so low, I was even in direct line with several normal vehicles. It's even worse when they also have fog lights. I use the brightest I can find on my Expy. I also however use yellowish tinted lights. You can look directly at the lights on my truck and even though they are bright they don't cause pail like the cooler blue lights. I really want HID off road lights, and I NEED new headlights as mine look like milk now. I won't change though unless I can get a warmer light though. Eff HID, go LED Light bar. That's my next project. I don't want to spend $1k on a 40 inch light bar...plus I'll be able to build any width I want, any intensity, pattern etc etc. Probably won't look as nice but should perform close. Here is the one Rigid Industries makes: Wow, just about the worst factory lights I've seen. How much power will those pull? Curious as I could use something better on the snowmobile

Supposed to run circles around the ZR-1 for less $$$. And looks like a fwd turd. Sure I am all for fast, but a car should stir the soul in that price range as well. If the only goal is to run circles around the ZR-1, but a 3 yr old Elise for $25k and spend $5k on some forced induction and you'll kill them both.

And when they aren't aimed right it is even worse. Hell even shitty lights aimed poorly can suck it.