///M5

Two FYI's. The P18 is a midrange, not a midbass The ER18 is superior in pretty much every way, no reason to buy the P anymore.

There is no "rule of thumb" that always works. The only real way to know is to model the enclosure and determine the air speed in the port.

With your current Eclipse drivers do you get ear fatigue at all levels, or just at higher ones? Have you done any eq work to pull down the offensive frequencies? How are they setup right now? I'd like to understand what you have as it will surely help give options for changing things.

Depends a bit on where and how you are building a support baffle for them. If you are just cutting material and slapping the driver in....well you shouldn't.

NO, because porting a leaky enclosure is not a good idea. You do NOT have a wall, you have an IB installation. To the OP, if you can't fit a 18 ported buy a 15. So far from your posts I am not sure that the Q is right for you in the first place, buy you haven't shared goals so we all get to guess when we answer.

Just another reason to buy from Don at SDS - SSA Car Audio Forum

My beef with second skin - DIYMA.com Considering I'd guess it'll be deleted or reworked, I'll quote the thread here. Particularly funny to me since Ant argued with me over the benefits of including the CCF on the MLV a few times. I guess he finally realized.

Don't get me wrong, I wasn't recommending that you spend more on your shoes or pedals. You did just fine there. Two types of shoes in my opinion. Flexible ones and carbon soles. Carbon are better for performance for sure, but at the cost of $$. Really flexible ones are not for serious riding, but comfort when not riding and have a place. The ones in between are generally just fine for everyone else.

Its only weight comparing that shoe/pedal to another. Of course you just lost your weight savings for having aluminum versus steel. Lost weight savings with aluminum? Your frame being aluminum is about 200g lighter than my steel frame. Buying the cheaper pedals and shoes cost you 200g. Just pointing out the fallacy of aluminum again. Complete hype pushed by an uninformed buying population. It is a terrible frame material and the benefit always cited is light and stiff. Of course there is only one part of your frame that you want stiff and that is the bottom bracket/power transfer area. A well designed steel frame can nearly compete here, but is compliant to allow you more comfort everywhere else.

It won't sound like poop, which the type R is good at.

What would be the most important factors involved in the installation of the line array that "will make or break things"? So as long as the drivers are as vertical as possible in the line array, then the SQ will be there? this is the caveat that will "make or break" if its SQ I assume. I am starting to wonder if I am capable of doing this properly. I have been way over my head before and it is not fun and the results are only marginally better, sometimes worse. This line array sounds real cool, and I wouldn't mind trying it as long as you think it is the most economical and relatively easiet set-ups, and remember, this is my first active set-up. The more variables, the harder to figure out, thinking I should start simple, like a simple 1 inch or oversized tweeter, unsure of placement, and then the 7-8 inch mid, something with enough midbass and a more natural sound (guessing paper cone). I could be wrong, and as always I don't mind being corrected, like you said j-roadtatts haha. I am also looking to avoid much listening fatigue, if that has any affect on the drivers chosen, or is that mainly install / combo of the two? You definitely should NOT do it. You should do a setup that you expect to change a few months after you do it. Really understanding your goals both short and long term is the next step here. At the moment I have NO idea what you are trying to accomplish.

Location, alignment, processing, pretty much everything can really screw things up or end up dialing them in.

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I always find it funny that the pedals you clip into are called clipless.

Worse if the same car pulls in front of you and you are using straps. I have no problems clipping in and out whenever.

That is the style of pedal that came with my bike. Great for road riding, but I HATE walking in shoes that clip into them.

Its only weight comparing that shoe/pedal to another. Of course you just lost your weight savings for having aluminum versus steel.

That is what my pos Silverado had and it had NO problems with more power than you are asking. I ran JL power hog amplifiers as well. 1000/1 and 450/4. Correctly wired and voltage drops were far from an issue. And definitely remove the cap, it is hurting not helping.

Definitely not too low. It won't change anything other than where your gain knob is. 4v decks NEVER hit 4v anyways.

Riding a bike without REALLY sucks.

Yes. Damn foot grew since college though so my Sidi Dominators are a bit too small. I need a 50, not the 48's that I have. Sucks looking at a pair of $350 shoes that cramp your toes. Of course, I've been wearing them anyways. Bike has the Onza pedals from my Mt. Bike. And no, they aren't made anymore. Not sure what I am going to switch to. Definitely sticking with mountain shoes though, although I have a pair of Look style Ultegra's that came with my bike.

When did I break 40k?

Ride quality as well, but of course this is related to long term ownership. If you threw your frame away every season you could definitely make an aluminum one ride like steel, but it would fatigue quickly. Titanium is the only other material I'd be interested in, repairable, albeit not nearly as easily as steel.

After you hit 50, sure. You're just jelly. All the fastest man power speed records are made on a recombant. I am not in it for speed.

All up to you, sure could be. The installation will make or break things.