Everything posted by ///M5
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Welcome to the IHoP
Not sure. I don't buy front wheel drive cars and definitely not Hondas. Problem Solved. Thanks for the input. Figures it is some electronic grandma...
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Welcome to the IHoP
Sounds good, haven't done it since I said I would
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xcon sealed or ported
You are jumping to false conclusions.
- Welcome to the IHoP
- Welcome to the IHoP
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Welcome to the IHoP
Not sure. I don't buy front wheel drive cars and definitely not Hondas.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Uptown Bar & Grill
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Welcome to the IHoP
Gel coat should buff just like paint. You're screwed on the aluminum. Best you can do is clean with a mild acid to remove the oxidation, then polish and wax. No way to remove the pitting without filling. If it's really bad, you could use some bondo then paint it. Pitting isn't the biggest problem with the aluminum, it is covered with deposits. Regrettably it is an extrusion though so it isn't smooth. Polish and waxing won't be fun.
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Liquid Nail or Wood Glue?
Obviously. Box losses can change the response of your box significantly.
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Welcome to the IHoP
I saw that...certainly one way to make a tandoor Crap, I missed it. Although knowing Alton he used some terra cotta. Did he get the naan to stick to the sides of it? Amusingly, he could have just used a BGE as it is basically a tandoor if you take the grill grates out. *watch that is what he used
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Welcome to the IHoP
I can't believe they took him without a new contract. I hope he screws the skins too.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Good cuz I'll need 2 The labor was god aweful expensive. No more paying others when you have your saw now. I paid myself
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Welcome to the IHoP
Thanks, I only built it for temporary. Its been a few years now though.
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Head Unit for SPL application
Headunit add the Ural There are other older Alpines as well, all the above work really well. The H701 or P9 would be even a sexier solution. Plenty of non-h/u based active options also, but I personally would prefer it in the head or nearby by anyways as it makes tuning easier.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Tree sap or dripping as well. I realize these would buff off, but am afraid they will stick to the pad and scratch the shit out of everything.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Sitting in the garage doing some remodel planning, enjoying a beer, and surfing the net. I notice this big white, faded, pitted, but now clean snowmobile trailer. Two challenges, neither of which I have ever dealt with before. 1) Faded fiberglass -- I normally keep my shit protected, this obviously was not. So far in a quick search I found something called vert glass, but there has to be something more logical. 2) Pitted dirty aluminum -- again, not sure how it could get like this and sitting covered in snow & salt it doesn't bother me, but since I washed and scrubbed it yesterday it does now. Obviously preventative is the key, but I just bought it this year so I get to restore first. Help.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Good cuz I'll need 2 The labor was god aweful expensive.
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Welcome to the IHoP
sold my motorcycle today Total relief. Amusingly got more than I paid and it doesn't run atm.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Oh yeah, I think all the wood cost me $22.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Perfect hole for the BSE. Did you fire it up without slate in that pic? Ryan2 - Thanks for the tip. I'll use a 2x4 frame, I'll probably use slats reather than ply though. Probably not treated. Its never had anything like slate, 3 years later still sits like it was in the pic. Of course, I have a Viking not a BGE. Even when mildly raging (500-600) you can put your hand on the top of it and hold it there for a bit. Not hot enough to scorch wood that is for sure. Of course it wouldn't be a bad idea to have something to stop sparks from burning it up, but I'm livin' dangerously. Cut the hole with a router and a circle jig
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low notes send amp into protect
And 37 isn't so different, perhaps for the OP even better. I really don't understand the fascination of the recommendations of low tunes. Sure they have a purpose and out of all the people commenting in this thread they would serve a purpose to me the most; however, there just isn't so much stuff in music that low and considering most drivers are built to be tuned higher regularly that makes sense. Modelling software makes things worse as people have no idea what the curve means or how effective cabin gain is. Last ported box I built was tuned higher than 37Hz, albeit for a reason, and no this was a box for my sister not for me personally. My design though. Your missing the point of tuning low Sean, his drivers will be more efficient at tuning making them louder at and around tuning, that is good for someone who likes low frequencies but bad if they tune too low because they risk mechanical failure if they play too far away from tuning. That's why I recommended 34-35 Hz. You know just as well as I do that 150 dB at 30 Hz. is far more impressive than 150 dB at 70 Hz. LOL, not missing the point at all. I understand exactly what tuning does what, but there is a HUGE misconception across the board with people new to this site (and some who have been here for a while) on the notes that are actually in the music they listen to. As for impressive, again who cares if you don't listen to music that plays those tones.
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what mp should i run? 1500 kicker or the 1700 brutus at 2 ohms?
Kicker >>>> Hifonics
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Welcome to the IHoP
I used 2x4's for the legs and little stuff everywhere else. There is a 2x4 hidden underneath it for support.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Every week I think next week, have to agree with R2 on this one. No time like the present. 21 days later it should be a habit and not a struggle. Hard few weeks though.