///M5

Scratch the Hifonics...unless you buy an uber old school one

Depends on what you "need" for processing capability. The RF is noisy, so you may not like it. I'd also check your headunit ground. If you are using the stock ground I wouldn't be surprised if that isn't your culprit.

Sweet. You are doing this right Makes me happy.

You've read before on here that you can just pick up Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker Design Cookbook and you will have "all" the good info, but that I guess you already knew.

With a design goal of light, again the RWD would win...and does. It is way simpler to make drive axles that don't have to turn. The top cars in this list are ridiculously light. Top Gear Track lap records - FastestLaps.com Go ahead and show us your FWD performance vehicle in that list and how they all rank on the top as they handle better. I will also guarantee that you put snow tires on any of the cars in that list and run them on sheer ice and they will handle unbelievably well. Much better than any FWD car with snow tires. j/w sean how is the H1 on top of the list? i must of looked at somethin wrong last night. the Caparo T1 is on top now The Caparo H1 Hummer was never there. That's old anyways. There's a "special" Ferrari on top now which was driven by a "special" Stig. Special as in FWD? Like the new F1 cars?

Ford wouldn't dare release a 5.0 engine that couldn't be boosted. No way the marketing department is that stupid.

Just to reinforce what has already been said, a line driver won't help you but solving your noise issue will

What have you done in the current install to increase the midbass of the 165's? ie, what does the installation include. Pics would be helpful, a description of what you did, how they are wired (phase), what eq work you have tried, and so on.

And everything else you have. A complete system idea would be good to share...

If I had an iceboat I'd invite you over.

Crap, realized I forgot to answer about the tweeters in the doors. I played with mine briefly near the pillars and didn't like anything. Being the truck was something I bought to only use when towing the boat, hauling garbage or whatever I didn't really care to spend so much time or effort building anything. The compromise I made was in stage height and just put them near the mid. I also did EVERYTHING on a serious budget. Deadening, amplifiers, headunit, and drivers all came in at $1k originally and eventually swelled to $1500. I still consider that a real budget build.

Just for giggles I put my coat up on top of the dash and it actually made it sound a little better. (or maybe psychoacoustics?) I'll try the tweeters alone this weekend when I play with the angles on the mids in the doors. Right now they are fired straight across at each other behind the factory panel. I'm going to take off the panel and try aiming them forward towards the windshield, up and forward, and also up and back to see if it makes much difference. Fortunately the tweeters aren't mounted permanently yet so I can just use tape to hold them where I want them to aim. Once I'm satisfied with the aiming, I'll post my results here for anyone who's interested. I'll get my new 6.5's when I go down for the show so everything I do now may be for naught, but at least I'll be close. What amazes me is the difference in midbass from changing amps. I had decent midbass before, but once I put my new amp on them, they really came alive. I do have to be careful with the volume knob. With as low as I have them crossed, if I play anything bass heavy they will pop, which I assume is something hitting the backplate. I see you have your tweets in the doors with the mids.....do you find that it images better from there? That wasn't pyschoacoustics as knocking down reflections will clean things up...of course it will change the optimal aiming likely as well. I seriously doubt that aiming at each other will be what you pick, but as stated that dash is a bitch. On to your mids, best thing you can do for angling your them is get a tweeter that can play lower. 3k is too high for killer imaging with that much distance separating. Sure you can electronically do things to improve it, but it is far from ideal. You can always try what you have active and see what they will take. If an amp (*with the same power*) changed your midbass that is MUCH more a pyschoacoutic reaction than the dash pad. WAY more. Of course, I assume you re-tuned everything before coming to that conclusion. Either that or your previous amp was seriously falling on its face when playing anything with dynamics. A decent mid should be able to boogie in the right install. Hitting the backplate would make me look for a different mid. Mine are HP (should say were as I yanked everything out a week ago) at 40Hz (had been for well more than a year) and even if I ran them full range it took some serious notes to make them sweat. Midbass was awesome for a 6.5/7 as well. As for posting your aiming it would probably be interesting to someone with your exact truck and your exact tweeters, for anyone else it won't help at all. Pictures of course make everyone on here happy. Good luck, let us know how it goes and definitely throw up questions if they come in the process

Hey as long as you let me know when I can improve on something I am HAPPY M5. As I know that is usaully the ONLY time you will post anyways. I will have a few speaker choice's for you to review soon, as I have been spending EVERY free moument studying what will fit my needs. Thanks again M5 for your input and help. Glad to read what you are thinking about drivers. Since you asked for input, if I were you I'd convert that thing to RWD.

Either is fine in a BP, not sure of your space though. As for NEED that is up to you. For me I'd MUCH rather have a midbass than a sub.

Not sure he's used them yet, but they are in his closet. Perhaps nothing comes out of the closet though

The SLS won't go high enough. How much of a midbass nut are you (trade off is less output) and what budget is left for the 8's?

Next you are going to tell me the Caparo is FWD.

With a design goal of light, again the RWD would win...and does. It is way simpler to make drive axles that don't have to turn. The top cars in this list are ridiculously light. Top Gear Track lap records - FastestLaps.com Go ahead and show us your FWD performance vehicle in that list and how they all rank on the top as they handle better. I will also guarantee that you put snow tires on any of the cars in that list and run them on sheer ice and they will handle unbelievably well. Much better than any FWD car with snow tires. j/w sean how is the H1 on top of the list? i must of looked at somethin wrong last night. the Caparo T1 is on top now The Caparo H1 Hummer was never there.

I'd second the comments from above. *reading, just not everytime an update happens, you had an answer before I saw the question that was spot on so no clarification was needed although I just did.

152 god damned points? Hopefully that means we can at least get a draft pick or two.

You shouldn't use a DMM to set the gain, at least not at a level you aren't 1000% sure your amp can supply. However the solution is in my previous post. Turn down your gains, you won't hear a difference anyways.

I can't imagine having a teenager right now, although that might be less work than a baby.

how's the little guy? He is awesome as usual running about wreaking havoc on the locals Good to hear, mine is crawling around and not at the havoc stage yet

Geez, I break 40k and am still at level 14.