///M5

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Oh, that is without negotiating...I really imagine $52-53 would have been fine but after driving it I had no urge to try.

I think your budget is about right. My friend said that he found a (don't quote me on this) 2007 ISF w/ 20k for $50K? I think that was it. Haven't driven the new CTS-V, but everything else listed really embarasses the ISF. The Lexus reminded me of the NSX and from reviews you might say that is a good thing; however, I mean the negative parts of the NSX. It may be quick, the seats may even be okay, but it does absolutely nothing for you in the drivers seat. If he is a terrible driver perhaps it may make sense, but otherwise it sounds like he is looking at enthusiast cars and then he should look at ones enthusiasts like. Perhaps a better analogy is the Infinity Q37s. The specs are good, but drive one and you'll be flat out bored. Absolutely NOTHING to get excited about. The ISF has a better interior, but it is teeny, trendy, boring and a complete waste of money IMO. $50k for a used one is a terrible deal as well, the one I drove was brand new and could have had it for $57k.

FACK. Got to clean the house.

Deck output has nothing to do with it (yes, I realize the exceptions of overloading the input or not providing enough, but the Sundowns are rather flexible in that regard), so no need to meter the deck. Impedance rise is NOT something you should be concerned about when setting your gains. Voltage and electrical are a concern, but if you are only going to have it output 500w I wouldn't worry about it at all.3 Using a DMM isn't such a good idea in general to set gains. I'd much prefer to do it by ear, but if you don't trust your ears or your ears aren't trustworthy that isn't a good solution. An O'scope is by far the best solution, but if you are confident in your amplifier AND your voltage supply to the amplifier then you can use a DMM.

I apologize, I shouldn't have used Loud or Definition. Been on a tear today on the phone and shouldn't type while I am on the phone, but I am super ADD and have to do two things at once. Sorry. Meant to say description of said output from your previous post. IE, was trying to refer to your half the output statement. Some background on the comps, the install, the power, the frequencies where "half" is, how you determined it was half and so on, what happens when you turn them up to compensate and so on. Last thing I want to do is recommend something and have it not do what you want.

As for what else? The CTS-V, the AMG E class, the Audi S4 are also all logical buys. Not sure what budget or years, but I assume somewhere above $45k if the ISF is on the list.

Has he driven any of them? IMO he won't be interested in the ISF if he has driven the other two.

HA HA speaker recommendations??? Was waiting to try and understand your definition of loud.

What wasn't clear?

That's a whole lottta but Thank you cub. Using lump I got it to smoke for nearly 16 hours of the whole time. YUMMY!

Trails were great except at the start and the end. Close to home and resorts tend to get walloped but the rest in the middle was really sweet. Put down around 400mi and love the new ride As for a 3" having enough output, it depends on what frequencies you have it play and what enough is. If you really want to wang you might have to raise the lower frequency that it plays and have a bit more underlap, but that isn't such a bad thing. To your beaming question, I could type something up but definitely not today as I am super busy Basically. When a speaker plays you want to have a completely uniform output spherically. Obviously this never happens, but at really low frequencies it is optimized. As as the frequency goes up, the wavelength gets short enough that the wave can have destructive and constructive interference across the speaker cone you start to get major nulls in the frequency response and it "beams" sound directionally much worse than at lower frequencies since there is wave mixing. In other words, the larger the cone the beaming will happen lower in the frequency domain. As for adding a tweeter, I'd personally recommend you try to keep this simple. It is very possible to add one and to do it passively, but that isn't so trivial without at least some measurement equipment. We could surely make some assumptions, but measurements in situ always provide better results. *I hope this is understandable I am leading a conference call right now so I am not very focused.

That's a whole lottta but

Love the baffle, and great work on the backside as well. Super sexy and awesome install. I is teh jealous.

$1k? How?

are u taking the new one on the ride? Of course. Put 400mi on her this weekend. WAY happy. I'd be dead tired had I rode the old one. I am putting the old one up for sale pronto....well almost. I let the BIL drive her and the jackshaft bearing went out. Supposed to go around 2k and mine made it until 3.5k so I don't feel bad. Probably $15 and an hours worth of work so not a biggie, but it won't get done today.

Nope. Never owned a ditch pickle. I'm 220lbs, but like my stuff to last. Polaris all the way. My avatar should be a dead giveaway on why my handle is M5...considering it is my car. I hope thier sleds are better than thier 4wheelers, the sportsmans are junk.LOL Ha Ha actually the RMK was my second pick back then, havent road in a few years. I was closer to 250 then also, The m5 handled nice for my fat ass.... I got a 660 Grizzly now.....hold the fuck on. Is your Grizzly suffering any of the problems the class action is directed at?

Here is the skinny IMO. If you can run a 3-4" driver completely on axis then you can get away with just a midbass and a full ranger. If you can't get it on axis then a tweeter and a mid-woofer would be a better combo. Obviously there is some gray area between ON & OFF axis and that compromise you can choose from. Being a bass player I would nearly always pick the dedicated midbass and full range driver. Two main reasons. 1) It is the only way to get great midbass in a car, 2) Having a single driver play MOST of the frequency range really helps staging and simplifies a lot of the issues surrounding installation in a car. That being said. I'd play with your butter dish some more and decide if you are willing to do it. I'll also add that I prefer a 3" full range driver for its reach, but there are 4"ers that can work too. My favorite 4 would require that you add a tweeter as well though which then defeats the purpose.

I think you'll like them.

Damn, I want to go ride now.

Got to pack my shit for the overnight trip tomorrow. Fresh underwear and socks take a long time to pack Not much space in the new sleds storage bins.

Can't wait to go and beat on her.

Oh, and I usually own two considering the W likes to ride as well. She just took the last two winters off due to being pregnant and now caring for a baby.

I might throw the first up for sale next week and shoot the moon. Too clean to not get a premium. I want to see if I want the carbides off it first though

HA, HA now I think I know where you got your handle, I use to ride ArticCat M5. I rode the M7 after that but I'm 200 lbs so I liked the lower M5 more. Nope. Never owned a ditch pickle. I'm 220lbs, but like my stuff to last. Polaris all the way. My avatar should be a dead giveaway on why my handle is M5...considering it is my car.