///M5

And there are as many bad ones about Steve at RD as there are good about Jacob. BTW, it is SUPER easy to take a great design and cut costs and ruin it. Why do you think some amps fail and others don't? Even from the same buildhouse? Why do you think a good speaker builder will spend as much (if not more) on his passive crossovers as he did drivers, but that car audio comp sets have crossovers you could build for $10? Component selection is critical, build is important, and board layouts well they aren't that much of a deal. It isn't like amplifier technology has changed all that much in the past 10 years.

Good assumption is to assume nearly everything you've learned there that didn't come from Aaron or John to be wrong. *could be others but I don't go there as the nonsense drives me nuts but i thought when the impedance is higher, the amp has more control over the cone... resulting in more accurate reproduction?... Hahahahaha. dont laugh, ass. im trying to learn here. Easy tough guy. KU gave you your answer, I'll laugh all I want because you could have used he search function and found the answer easier. i bet you feel good laughing at people that are trying to learn a thing or two. usually the search function just leads to a ton of different threads, and id have to read through all of them, which would take longer than just starting a thread. real mature. Now you know why I get pissed when people make stupid threads. Searching WOULD be useful if all these asshats actually followed the T&C's. An 8ohm load is easier on your amplifiers for sure, but hearing the difference between amplifiers properly setup just isn't going to happen in your car.

Not sure I understand your goals from your post. Really loud with some SQ could even be a BTL, depends on your definition of both...

Make sure you add exactly why you are choosing a T-line over another style enclosure and its actual use.

Other way around. Figure out what you think you should do and then ask, otherwise don't build a t-line. No spoon feeding, you've lost your capability for that here.

I stand corrected $399 for a 15 cu. ft. chest, manual defrost; had to pay out of county delivery naturally, but well worth it. Delivery scheduled for Wednesday mother was initially dead set on auto-defrost, but the $250 price difference assuaged that right quick That's good. Autodefrost only RUINS your food. It should NEVER be a part of a freezer. I'll be quite honest: I have no fucking clue what the fuck auto defrost is, only that most people in the know (yourself included) say to avoid it like the plague It lets the whole freezer warm up and melt and then turns back on. REALLY STUPID idea.

sad yet exciting day. You get a new ride picked out? Sort of. Not exactly as there is nothing at my price point right now, but I am not so worried.

I stand corrected $399 for a 15 cu. ft. chest, manual defrost; had to pay out of county delivery naturally, but well worth it. Delivery scheduled for Wednesday mother was initially dead set on auto-defrost, but the $250 price difference assuaged that right quick That's good. Autodefrost only RUINS your food. It should NEVER be a part of a freezer.

Your system will not play half order harmonics... If they were built in the same equivalent box there should be no clarity difference. Can you describe this more as it is confusing if the boxes are as you say they were.

Luckily the Volvo has naught such issues

What kind of enclosure were the 15's in & size? Anything you don't like about your current setup besides the output right now? How low really matters to you? And most importantly, how big of a box can you fit/willing to use?

If you can get a wideranger on axis it should be more than enough for anyone.

Wouldn't that be sweet!

The Kicker stuff will take what it says easily in their recommended box. If you want to know the other limits of it beyond that you either need to install it many ways or to really model it correctly.

Wow. Aidan is taking another nap.

A Dcon would "fit" but as I stated above you'll be cramping the piss out of it. A single 12" Dcon ported in that space would work though.

Take pictures from the front, back, side, and every possible angle and optio. Into the hull also helps. Bring some extra light as the flash regularly has a hard time illuminating under hulls.

I think an AWD Gallardo would be a good winter beater

None of the AA or Fi will work. 6.75" is going to reduce you to old school motors in which case larger might be fine as they won't be 7" deep. Exactly why you always think about everything before having a box built. The problem you are going to have with old school drivers is they will need WAY more airspace than you have. You've shoe-horned yourself into a not very good situation and perhaps the easy way out is to sell the box you just had built. An Rli10 and plenty of other 10's would fit and work in your airspace. 12's not so much.

The first was definitely worth a watch, I'll catch the second in a bit.

BYOB? Beat-on your offroading BMW

Great day to take it for a drive

The kerf really just changes the velocity and does very little to the overall length. As a general rule of thumb if you subtract half the flare radius from the length of the port (ie it shortens it), but again in your case this won't really affect things in particular since it isn't fully kerfed. (ie you only kerfed one side not all 4). Measurable, actual, and enough to worry about are all in play here and none of them will be big enough to change your result. You'll be close to your target tuning

no texans there, just the side of the family that never came to the states. My grandma came over to the states following WW2 i believe. Nobody else from her family has moved to the states. I wonder how many relatives i have over there... Did realize you were Japanese

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