///M5

Thank you!

Seeing the actual install location and what is behind it would really help. Just as with a car picking the right driver requires a good understanding of the install location.

What was the target shape for the port (ie L, W, H)?

and you actually need neither but instead a midrange if i am readimg your request right

4th order ported = standard bass reflex design 4th order bandpass is when the driver is in the box and all sound comes from the port. A simple sealed enclosure with the driver firing into a ported one. Better transient response than 4th order vented, but a narrower passband.

The math? Haven't you designed a few? If so you should know it isn't trivial. I find this not so amusing that you are on here pushing members to build T-lines, you design one that causes a catastrophic failure of a driver, and still people follow along with your desires. Not sure which is worse your recommendations of them or the fact that people follow along and still want to build them. Chop take note, not the person you want designing you a T-line.... As for the math, what reading have you done and what do you need clarified?

8ohm ftw. Some reading for you: Why loudspeakers should all be rated at 1W/1m - SSA Car Audio Forum

Better not run them by your ground either :eek: Obviously neither matter. And all of those people know nothing about wire. If you can't measure an LCR difference you sure the hell can't hear it. Actually super cheap copper would be fine and still wouldn't be the "weakest" link. Hell if you could shield a coat hanger, go for it. Any shielded RCA that was decently assembled will be more than fine.

Izakiya FTMFW

First morning back in the USA. God its pretty here. Now if we could just have some more Japanese restaurants that DIDN'T make sushi.

Chest. Kenmore is what I chose. Can't remember who makes it for them, but was rated highly and came with nice dividers.

That doesn't always mean IB. Some more detail on the mounting location, boat type etc... would help. Tons of fun tricks you can play in boats

Any non-paper cone sub will be fine. No reason to buy a marine driver. Coated paper is okay, and I'd definitely choose rubber over foam for the surround. If it is truly for IB, pick a driver suited for it...

And super enclosure dependent. Meaning more or less, up to you.

Shit, people get pissed when I post something will sound like a turd on here. Then you do it when I don't. Hmm, nice. Thanks Scott. And to others, you gotta appreciate the brutal open-ness and honesty considering how vested he is in Fi.

Who knows, set your gains with an O-scope and don't worry about it. If you don't have one a safe bet would be 50% of rated power or 500w. Perhaps it will do more, but it won't be double (and therefore inaudible if different) so keep it safe.

The problem with a question like this is that it makes it obvious you shouldn't even think about it. If you sit down and truly look at the response and math of T-lines you'd never even ask. Add that to the fact that you won't ever nail the build on the first attempt it is surely not what you should use. Even if you didn't have to ask the question the answer you'd come up with would be to not bother as there is no benefit for you.

Full measurements would be helpful...

do it yourself, that way you'll know its right

Aargh. The Vikes drought should have ended not the Saints. Fucking refs.

I guess true straight pipe would be no cats and no mufflers. So in reality its not true. I have cats but no mufflers A proper system that makes more power than what you have would sound better, make more power, and be less annoying. Trucks like yours make me laugh. An exhaust system on a car that begs for it and again helps it make power I am all fine with, but for the sake of being loud it makes no sense at all.

You need to balance performance gain with bolt on's and regularly in a nearly stock vehicle exhaust doesn't do anything worthwhile except change the sound. Not sure why I'd ever want to hear my own ride unless of course it was some exotic engine. If a normal car, as quiet as possible while making as much power as possible is perfect.

Sounds like somebody needs to go to Home Depot or Lowe's for some wood. have no plans yet want=plan, as long as you can

Seeing tiprle

What do you have for specs on the box so far?