///M5

For your goals I think they are a waste of money. The positive review you linked was from a dealer.

You shouldn't ever need more than 1 pair of horns in a car.

x2 er matt^2

If those are external dimensions the subs won't fit. 7" - 3/4 - 3/4 = 5.5" and the sub is more than 6" deep. On top of that if you have 2.9cuft gross that is about the right volume for one of them, not two.

Those are not "small box" drivers. If you aren't putting them in a box they need a minimum of 10cuft and more would be better. ie having them vent into your hood or somewhere outside will really help the bottom end. They should be able to take all of the 100.4 without a problem. Let your ears decide though as it will be the lower frequencies as per usual that will stress the driver. Definitely let your ears decide with the subs and horns off. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-456 Shows the mounting depth is 4.75" Frequency response charts here, 1kHz shouldn't be a problem. http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-456s.pdf Assuming these are like their brethren in the line you should really like them. I would also expect if you don't they should be fairly easy to sell at not that much of a loss. I will repeat though that these won't be as loud in the 150-800Hz range as the ID's according to their power handling and sensitivity, but they should surely have some sick midbass and still be able to blend with your horns.

"words" are typically in the 350hz-3500hz range which is where those horns will cover most of. Even without you will only be missing an octave of voices, but those will be midbass machines. The choice here is great midrange or midbass. I wouldn't enclose the driver but open up the area behind them into the fender. Time to cut some metal *again I haven't heard the ID's but am skeptical and hate their selling price.

that actually went too far, even for me

those 2 words came with music

Perhaps daydreaming is a better word than thinking

<--captain obvious

I'd rather have the coed than the tequila

It all depends on the power you throw at them. Ignore the power ratings a bit as the higher you cross them the more they will take. The Daytons will have more midbass potential for sure, but will require more power. Completely sealed would kill either driver, you really need to get them as IB as possible or at least build a suitable sealed enclosure. Anything that large in a kick is tough unless you vent into the fender or outside.

cow-pusha

I own the street bitch

Read the noob posting guidelines, that sort of question isn't allowed here. If you have to compensate please find some other way to do so. *closed

Return the two L5's for more L7's, the L7's are always louder even off less power.

They sure hollar though when asked to support the people "under" them. All is okay to take a handout, but t give one? Nah. Despise the hunt for money, hell I encourage it. Doesn't mean the dollar is almighty, but your damn straight that I am going to live the "american dream" and try to get as big of a piece of pie as I can. I do expect to have to work hard for it though.

What size midbass and tweeter will you run with them?

If you can fit that Dayton, I'd bet lots of money they will have the more midbass and will easily play smoothly out to a kHz. The first nasty cone mode isn't until 4k. You also won't run out of excursion as easily as you would with a non-sub driver. Of course I am biased as no way no how would I pay what ID wants.

Funny how old cars are cheap. My M for instance, $5-8k in Europe and at least $15k here. Then you take a new car and it is the opposite as they sell for nearly 50% more originally there.

I love skirt steak

hey, I'm not from Winnipeg although I've spent plenty of time drinking there, at least before I turned 21. The old bugger was reffering to me....LOL But Mark threw some crazy stuff at me when we first discussed this project......the mans an inovator at heart. I put nothing out of the realm of possibility. I knew he was referring to you, considering the name and locale though I had to comment.

The B&C is a midrange that plays low. If you have crossovers on your h/u or amp right now you can simulate. Turn up the HP on your XXX6.5's to 150hz at 12dB. It may not be that severe, but I'd be it would be close. *assumes good installation and deadening on the current set

What would you consider the factors that you would call a downgrade? Are you replacing 1 SX with 4 MJ's? Not sure what you are exactly comparing from your post.

Fuckin' liberal programs wasting money BOO