///M5

Cancellation (ie destructive interference, there is constructive as well ) doesn't occur linearly at all frequencies so some would be louder, some quieter, and some the same. Either way if the goal is loud it isn't a good way to go about it. As for the subs, the wavelength of the frequencies is so long that interference can happen but not nearly to the effect that it has on higher frequencies.

Yes. The difference between 100w and 125w is not something your ears can discern

Leave the grills not the drivers

Are u speaking of my reply or the post by JayC76? If its me...try again. Not a single documented case of cancer from MJ. Everything besides air that you breathe into your lungs causes damage, when damage is caused cell's replicate to make new cells. Did you know that cancer is just mutated cells? With all of the genes that cells copy mutations happen. Smoking ANYTHING causes cancer. Inhaling dust, and pollution over long term causes cancer. You sir have been proven wrong. That is not it causing cancer but you smoking. What about an inhaler, a vaporizer, a nebulizer, what about brownies? It isn't the hemp or THC that causes cancer but the act of smoking. Don't mix them up, you proved nothing.

Limit? Yep... They only allow you to listen to 40hrs a month per account. Ah, I didn't realize as the slingbox allows more.

Limit?

Really, are there any lakes in LA?

top

it wouldnt be the vikes if they didnt completely loose their ass in the post season. im not nesicarrily happy we have BF but its funny as hell either way. The one thing I hope it does is gets us a new OUTDOOR stadium. Eff the rest of the league. You want home field advantage? Come play our ass outside in December bitches. Tickets should sell, we should be rated as a favorite to make it deep into the post season, so hopefully it will open the purse strings and get the team planted here for good. I really don't want another Northstars, Lakers fandango.

IMO it is crazy to use 2 6.5" midbasses when instead you could use a real one in the first place. With what direction you are going you really should think about an active setup. Running that many drivers passive just doesn't make sense when for less money you could have a far superior system. Don't believe the hype on the Hertz stuff. For the money you'd throw into the setup you described there are many drivers that will completely embarrass the Hertz. What you should do is describe your goals, your install space, your budget, and your capabilities and then we can help you put together a system that will work for your needs. *note, I am not saying Hertz is bad but for the dough you've outlined to spend to do it they make no sense whatsoever

Too much headroom is an oxymoron. Again if you want other options you need to pick 2. No way around "Sean's Iron Law" on that one.

Sort of. You need a power supply for a microphone a well. Then of course it will output a voltage and allow you to connect to an RTA; however, I will add that the utility of the RTA is extremely dubious. The ONLY thing that I think that anyone not really familiar with acoustics should use one for is to find resonant anomalies so that it is easier to use an eq to cut them out of their system response. I guarantee you won't like a flat response, I guarantee your ears won't prefer a flat Fletcher-Munson response, and lastly if your ears like it why do you care what it says on an RTA? For work I regularly carry a $50k+ RTA, $2k measurement mic and all sorts of other NVH gear but other than when I setup my t/a I haven't bothered to use it in my car other than dicking around. Generically speaking your ears are a better measurement system as your system is for YOUR ears.

The Alpha's are indeed midranges. 81Hz may be their spec, but 150-200Hz is more like their reality. As for what to do it depends on what is important to you. My guess is that you can have your subs play high and get away with just the midrange and the horns. Considering you already have them installed that is what I would recommend first. After you upgrade your tweeters listen to music and some sweeps and then describe what you are lacking and we can propose a solution. Remember their is no best or absolute right, it is your system and should play what you want well not what I like. Get the horns in and see what happens

Is it only the "words" you are concerned about?

Whichever will give you a cleaner connection.

If you aren't firing through the ski pass, I'd nearly guarantee in that car that you will get more bass if the sub is rear firing. Probably rear firing port as well (unless of course you fire the port through the rear deck). Those pics make it look like you are using particle board. If so, use mdf on your next one. I am also curious on your porting frequency and how you came up with using those two ports.

Calibration shouldn't be difficult as I assume it will stay linear. Longer wire should just cause a voltage drop getting one step closer to the noise floor, but I will never "measure" down there anyway.

boo, long ways from here

I love the idea.... you could just splice/resolder wire to acess remotely for controll in the house. You could set up a camera to view the cooker, but it would have to be a bad muther of a camera to deal with MN winter, more so if it will freeze/thaw so much when it's close to the Egg. You could check out durrable surveylance cameras and work that out. I'm gonna chew on that, I love the idea. It's not worth doing at my house.... maybe.... but the idea is choice! Thermocouples you can't just "extend", but perhaps for some $ they would send me ones with the right response or let me know how to mod-them. Hell, I'd keep the controller in the basement and only use the PC. As long as you have calibration parameters, you can make thermocouples as long as you need them to be, no? That is my thought. Obviously within reason considering it isn't like they are high voltage. In one of my labs, we made our own out of 2 pieces of the right kind of wire. We also discussed the principles that allow them to work. IIRC, as long as the voltage drop is calibrated to the correct temps, it'll work. And generically with any wire they are linear right? ie I could extend them and recalibrate myself?

Unspecific to the actual amplifiers that you asked about, I'd generically always take the 4 channel option over the 2chn. Easier to use for something else later, or to sell for that matter.

I'd keep the MJ if you truly want a HT box. Obviously you need a lesson in how to use WinISD. The only thing you've proven to us by your comment is that you really don't understand how drivers work and more obviously how to use WinISD.

hey, I'm not from Winnipeg although I've spent plenty of time drinking there, at least before I turned 21.

That's a terrible description of what you want. Daily -- could you be more subjective? What do you think an SQ head runs "daily". Ground Pounder -- are you trying to be a social menace? heard 35hz is better -- for what? better again is subjective. If you frickin' want output just say so and describe what the hell you listen to. All the responses so far really aren't answers to your question. 32Hz tuning isn't exactly optimized for output, lol.

I love the idea.... you could just splice/resolder wire to acess remotely for controll in the house. You could set up a camera to view the cooker, but it would have to be a bad muther of a camera to deal with MN winter, more so if it will freeze/thaw so much when it's close to the Egg. You could check out durrable surveylance cameras and work that out. I'm gonna chew on that, I love the idea. It's not worth doing at my house.... maybe.... but the idea is choice! Thermocouples you can't just "extend", but perhaps for some $ they would send me ones with the right response or let me know how to mod-them. Hell, I'd keep the controller in the basement and only use the PC. As long as you have calibration parameters, you can make thermocouples as long as you need them to be, no? That is my thought. Obviously within reason considering it isn't like they are high voltage.