///M5

Damn, how'd you sneak that post in there. wh0re

Jeez Tom, if you insist

100$ for the brand new water pump from the Cadillac stealership, 50$ for a rebuilt one from an autoparts store but everything I read said nothing but a brand new one works... Another 25$ for the specialty tool to get the actual water pump out, 15$ for the new belt and cover plate gasket. All in all I ended up spending ~200$ and 3hrs. The book time is 3hrs so it isn't to bad, hate to see what a dealer would charge to change it. The actual work is fairly easy, I took plenty of time and didn't hurry anything. I could have been done in almost half the time if the back bolt holding the cover plate on wasn't hidden behind the biggest wire bundle EVER. In order to change it you have to pull a belt cover off (its driven off the front bank's top camshaft), loosen the belt, pull the tensioner pulley off to remove the belt. Next you unbolt four bolts to get the front plate off, insert your special do-hicky thing-a-ma-jog tool into the hole, get 'er lined up and push like hell; it's an 1/8 turn cam-lock on the water pump. After that it'll just pull right out, clean the plates and o-ring spots up, stick the new water pump in the same way it came out and bolt it all back together and your ready to run. $100 for a GM water pump isn't terrible, that's cheaper than one for an LT1 Even cheaper considering it is a Northstar and not an LT1...isn't it?

Nice! and a review! Here is his email verbotten: Ran the car last night about 15 miles, did a big loop from Rockford to Delano and back. I did a few shakedown runs around my place and everything seemed good. I was initially disappointed in how powerful it felt after taking it off the trailer on Friday after getting it aligned. My fears were unfounded. After adjusting the timing and taking it down the road I got on it to see what I was dealing with. Part of the issue is my throttle bracket has dual return springs that are pretty beefy, leading to a high effort gas pedal feel. After running it awhile I stomped on it good, and it went like a bat out of hell. I can't recall being in or on anything much faster. I'm sure a bike would be, but it felt right up there. I did it from about a 15mph roll since I didn't want get too carried away, and shifted around 5K the few times I did get into it. I want to make sure the tranny/rearend are broke in before getting too crazy, and I granny shifted as best I could. But I had to see what she had! All in all I'm very happy that everything works as it should. The tranny shifts effortlessly into each gear, the car runs strong and sounds good, there are no noises from the rearend. The clutch works smoothly, and the brakes are unreal. I got it out on a backroad and ran it up to 50-60mph and hit the brakes hard and steady to the verge of lock-up, repeated that about 4 times and drove it a few miles without touching them to allow them to cool. I got all the black coating off the fronts, I'll need to adjust my rear prop valve to bring in more of the rears as I could see about half the coating still on those. It's unbelievable how hard/fast it stops without even using much of the rears. Definitely feels, sounds, goes, and stops like a virtual race car. The ride was surprisingly good, the Koni's definitely were money well spent. It wasn't as jarring or abrupt as I expected, no worse than a Z06. I was fearing for the worst, but am very glad that it's relatively comfortable on the highway. The seats are a big help I'm sure! The bad news is I saw a small puddle of oil under the car this morning. The engine builder did comment about the oil pan seal, and I have to put some RTV on the bolts that hold the valley pan cover down (covers the top of the block) since I could see oil coming from those holes from crankcase pressure. I thinks some of that is attributable to not having a working PCV either, and just having breathers. I'm going to rig up a working PCV system that I think will keep the engine from pushing oil vapors out of the engine. I'm hoping that the oil pushed out those bolt holes is what ran back and dripped to the floor, and my valve covers weren't exactly ultra secure (one side only has 3 of 4 bolts since I'm missing one). Anyway, oil leaks are an easy fix relatively. This was the whole point of getting it out there before winter....if I have to pull the engine to fix a rear seal or oil pan gasket or whatever, it's a weekend deal. We're gettin' there!! *** the "oil" leak was a loose speedo cable Sounds like a hell of a lot of fun :D Glad to hear the TKO was a solid choice How'd that Flowmaster exhaust kit fit? The exhaust fit really well. Super clean.

Powerdyne from my SHO. Same unit Dinan used on the M3's. Sealed Centrifugal type. Could be useful if I owned a car I wanted to put it on.

Hmm, I hadn't thought of using the supercharger that is in my basement. I like the way you think Aaron.

I like Sears and out of all the luxury dealers they negotiate the best. I have now purchased 3 cars from there and have many friends that have as well.

Our BMW master mechanic for the 528i has just shy of 200k on his 2000 540i, no major problems to report that I know of. My feelings with the elder E55 is the durability and reliability, not to mention lower cost. We might be able to find a low miles one near you. Not saying anything is wrong with the 2005 E55, as it is damn strong, just thought I would throw out the earlier model because I know it is a tank. The 528 is an I6 though, I'd expect 300-400k without troubles in those. The 4.0L though good luck hitting 150k. If work weren't leasing me a car, I might even keep the M. The big advantage for me is my cars turn to cash = new kitchen. And I still won't have a car payment. Then grab a slightly used, pre-bangle 535i and slap a T-6 on it. Hehehe, that would be sweet. 535 not available in an E39, only E34

It is the same V-10 that is in the S6. Mostly the results are that Audi (I guess now Porsche) has done a good job in Germanizing the Lambo to make it a real drivers car. I still don't think I am keen on one of their motors yet.

And you have experience with these? Perhaps in your backpack? well show me what you think will work please. i look alot but i have never heard nor seen any for my self. maybe someone can chime in about the comps..the only comp set that i've had was the alpine type x 5.25's. sounded decent but i know it's better out there. try looking toward cdt, pg, or boston. the last time i heard a boston comp set it sounded good to my ears but that was awhile ago and i don't know if they are still on top of their game. edit:forget cdt i forgot about the $300 budget If you can't name a decent comp set why do you think it would be better than say the CA18RNX I recommended? On top of that the X 5.25's would be terrible for the application, and the CDT's are way overpriced junk. While there is more hassle with an active setup, in his budget even with just the amp crossovers (which are FAR from ideal) the HDS/CA18 combination will compete with passive sets costing 5x as much. Your comments recommending otherwise are not based on any real experience m5, your recommendation is fine as a matter of fact that's the route i would go. but he clearly stated that the only music he listens to is rap nothing else, and on top of that he didn't want to spend any additional money on processing, that it why i made the recommendation i did. He has processing albeit simple. As long as he shies away from drivers with nasty breakups and ones without other anomalies in the frequency response everything should be fine. Exactly why I recommended a simple paper driver (which is a beast btw) in the CA18 and a really flexible tweeter in the HDS.

well, i personally think we could use a bit more music at school. but thats just me. yes, let's turn school into a party. I'm sure that'll get the US higher on those worldwide education ratings........ Ok, let's make it more boring and prison like so more kids drop out. At least then the good ones will stay in and make the system look good. Doesn't bother me, I need someone to shine my shoes as well. Toughen up, if you can't hack school and don't want to work at it get ready to have to work menial jobs for your soon to be Chinese boss. The world won't wait for you and the average American is QUICKLY falling behind the rest of the world. And now our economy is following along. For all you young ones, now is the time to choose. Do you want to work for peanuts, live in a small apartment, never have more spending money than you do now or potentially get an education and a job that will allow you to do all sorts of things with your time. That motivation kept me going from about 2nd grade on. It's not always the fault of the people that "can't hack it", there are plenty that want to succeed but are hindered by the ever failing, increasingly underfunded system. Underfunded my ass. As an example here in MN, public school costs more to run than all bet the best private school. Worse education, way more spending. The problem is the funding it is how the funding is spent. Capitalist checks and balances would REALLY help our school system, throwing more money at them the way they are will just waste money.

I'll drive both E55's tomorrow though.

Our BMW master mechanic for the 528i has just shy of 200k on his 2000 540i, no major problems to report that I know of. My feelings with the elder E55 is the durability and reliability, not to mention lower cost. We might be able to find a low miles one near you. Not saying anything is wrong with the 2005 E55, as it is damn strong, just thought I would throw out the earlier model because I know it is a tank. The 528 is an I6 though, I'd expect 300-400k without troubles in those. The 4.0L though good luck hitting 150k. If work weren't leasing me a car, I might even keep the M. The big advantage for me is my cars turn to cash = new kitchen. And I still won't have a car payment.

I do too when I shave! I let the beard stay out 80% of the time. I have an odd pattern in the beard that makes a swirling pattern. Looks like a hurricaine and adds 10 years to my look. Also when someone in sales sees a guy with a beard but in dress clothes, they don't know what to think. Even worse when I'm in a suite, riding the 954, and then ask for the sedans that look innocent but hide big v-8's. I test sat in the g-8 What shit.... But I did see.... get this.... the v-10 s6 I was going to mention it to you Sean. Verry low miles and only 50k I'm an idiot only 17,000 miles. http://www.walser.com/ou/walser-corporate/..._used_inventory I saw that one on Autotrader, I actually like that ghey blue as well.

Nice! and a review! Here is his email verbotten: Ran the car last night about 15 miles, did a big loop from Rockford to Delano and back. I did a few shakedown runs around my place and everything seemed good. I was initially disappointed in how powerful it felt after taking it off the trailer on Friday after getting it aligned. My fears were unfounded. After adjusting the timing and taking it down the road I got on it to see what I was dealing with. Part of the issue is my throttle bracket has dual return springs that are pretty beefy, leading to a high effort gas pedal feel. After running it awhile I stomped on it good, and it went like a bat out of hell. I can't recall being in or on anything much faster. I'm sure a bike would be, but it felt right up there. I did it from about a 15mph roll since I didn't want get too carried away, and shifted around 5K the few times I did get into it. I want to make sure the tranny/rearend are broke in before getting too crazy, and I granny shifted as best I could. But I had to see what she had! All in all I'm very happy that everything works as it should. The tranny shifts effortlessly into each gear, the car runs strong and sounds good, there are no noises from the rearend. The clutch works smoothly, and the brakes are unreal. I got it out on a backroad and ran it up to 50-60mph and hit the brakes hard and steady to the verge of lock-up, repeated that about 4 times and drove it a few miles without touching them to allow them to cool. I got all the black coating off the fronts, I'll need to adjust my rear prop valve to bring in more of the rears as I could see about half the coating still on those. It's unbelievable how hard/fast it stops without even using much of the rears. Definitely feels, sounds, goes, and stops like a virtual race car. The ride was surprisingly good, the Koni's definitely were money well spent. It wasn't as jarring or abrupt as I expected, no worse than a Z06. I was fearing for the worst, but am very glad that it's relatively comfortable on the highway. The seats are a big help I'm sure! The bad news is I saw a small puddle of oil under the car this morning. The engine builder did comment about the oil pan seal, and I have to put some RTV on the bolts that hold the valley pan cover down (covers the top of the block) since I could see oil coming from those holes from crankcase pressure. I thinks some of that is attributable to not having a working PCV either, and just having breathers. I'm going to rig up a working PCV system that I think will keep the engine from pushing oil vapors out of the engine. I'm hoping that the oil pushed out those bolt holes is what ran back and dripped to the floor, and my valve covers weren't exactly ultra secure (one side only has 3 of 4 bolts since I'm missing one). Anyway, oil leaks are an easy fix relatively. This was the whole point of getting it out there before winter....if I have to pull the engine to fix a rear seal or oil pan gasket or whatever, it's a weekend deal. We're gettin' there!! *** the "oil" leak was a loose speedo cable

Didn't realize that was a Charger and I know you were making the opposite point. My comment was more on the lines. The older CTS dash doesn't look like a modern car, all hard edges. Even the door arm rests look like 1960. Looks like the 80's to me Mid 50's - Early 60's cars had gorgeous interiors Okay, I agree. You just had a 60's picture and it was closer to that than a new car.

Don't know who he/it is.

I do too when I shave! I let the beard stay out 80% of the time. I have an odd pattern in the beard that makes a swirling pattern. Looks like a hurricaine and adds 10 years to my look. Also when someone in sales sees a guy with a beard but in dress clothes, they don't know what to think. Even worse when I'm in a suite, riding the 954, and then ask for the sedans that look innocent but hide big v-8's. I test sat in the g-8 What shit.... But I did see.... get this.... the v-10 s6 I was going to mention it to you Sean. Verry low miles and only 50k I understand that Lambo engine is reall reliable :shrugs: *still wants one

My w doesn't get to come along...not even if the car is for her. She gets her pick, but that doesn't mean she gets to see what I buy. I bought the Audi without her ever seeing it. She did request, A6, Silver, Loaded in the body style she got so everything on her list was taken care of. She actually didn't even know we were seriously looking yet.

I feel I have a baby face, but Tom, Ryan, Ryan, Kent would probably be a better judge of that.

And yes negotiating is a win-lose prospect. Either they take what I am willing or I don't buy.

Real sales people don't care about age, although I like the ones that do as I know it means when it comes to negotiating I am going to win.

That is their asking price, they like to negotiate. I bought the W's Audi there, asking $22k paid $16k I was just ribbing you before I can't beleive they would move that much. Maybe if we both walked in and asked for a double buy discount we could get them to drop trou and take it? Now I want ribs and a new Benz though.. Sean either you are a really bad influence or a really good one. another car I have had in my mind for a while is the cl600's. That V-12 is sexy. Part of my problem with MB is the CL600. My buddy bought one new, within 2 years before they finally lemoned the car out, his fix sheet was more than 26 pages long. It never went more than 3 days without some sort of warning light coming on. No exaggeration, this is one of my best friends and of course it has soured me on the Merc. My other issue with the 55 series motors, my sister and her husband bought a CL55 from the local MB dealer. They put in the offer that it had to pass an inspection by a third party. After taking the car home, they brought it to my mechanic. 2 months out of warranty, but it needed $18k in repairs including a new supercharger. Needless to say they returned the car to the dealer.

The 3 ohm question is actually a really good one. My guess is yes, but you shouldn't go by my guess. I have never measured anything on those components, but would have to assume that they don't put all that nasty of a load on anything anyways and that the 3 ohm really means that they are under 4. Hopefully Jake will pop in and give us a real answer on the amp which would alleviate that concern.