///M5

5 or 6 channels is going to be a bit hard for $110 and you really, really should spend some money on sound deadening

You should see the "action" on my muskie sticks.

A flipping stick is closer to a broom stick in action Pool cue

7' by default aren't usually light action, medium-heavy perhaps unless it is one of those spinning rod thingee's that I despise

Alien to me as well. Perhaps we should talk fishing rods instead Speaking of which , Have you ever used kistler helium rods ? A friend of mine fishes flw . He gave me a couple prototype rods from his sponsor . I haven't had a chance to fish with them . But the feel of them is something that I have never felt before . He gave me a 7' flipping stick that weighs in at a whopping 4 oz. And a 6.5' medium heavy spinning rod that weighs in at 3 oz. They are so lite I am almost scared to use them. I'm gonna throw some reels on them and try them out tomorrow afterwork. I have never even seen one, but almost bought one a few different times. The LTA's are so light they have to ultra sensitive and can't be even the slightest bit fatiguing. To me weight is about the most important thing in a rod (obviously the action needs to match the baits you are throwing).

Over what frequency range?

shopping for mortgage's sucks!!

beaten out again

Sex Sleep Snore

Alien to me as well. Perhaps we should talk fishing rods instead

Sounds like a tuning problem to me. Not to many ways to tune IB subs. If you try aperiodic you lose the bottom and that is the #1 reason I run IB; to get the 30Hz, or 20 even. I want them to fly. Electronics might get rid of it, but then you end up at a crossover point you don't want so that is no good and sometimes you can't cross it out. Tuning ends up being...."find the right sub" and then you are golden. So you are telling me that electronic filtering and mechanical filtering have greatly different results?

The real question is how much room are you willing to give up?

top

Either that or no slope at all, just need to get some energy into the region where the cone starts going wacky. For instance, one of my favorite metal 7" drivers with a terribly active breakup mode. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/seas/H1224.pdf See the huge peak at 7kHz, it is up 12dB from nominal? Obviously in the case of this driver if you had a 6db slope at a frequency where your response was only down 6dB by the time you were at 7kHz the 12dB of boost would make the 7kHz response 6dB louder than the nominal response of the speaker. Then of course you see the valleys around the peaks which won't be excited that way and of course the harmonic peaks of the initial breakup. You can imagine what this might do to the frequency response...and of course there is another phenomena happening. The cone is going into "breakup" which literally means it isn't moving like a piston anymore, but bending in many locations as it tries to move in and out. This breakup will also have a natural tendency to color the sound leaving the response less than pleasant. Give it a listen, otherwise the next time I see you I will bring my RS180's which also breakup pretty bad so you can hear what it sounds like.

You'd like it even better now. mo powa

It is my understanding that they are bringing that engine over in the 5 though.

Sounds like a tuning problem to me.

As Matt asked, how exactly did you set your gains. I am also curious as to what is so special about the number 28.

Kelvin, Could you elaborate on your SQ goals? Your music tastes don't tell me that is the case, but it is rather pertinent information for any recommendations. I do feel either way you will benefit from a smaller box. Somewhere around .65cuft per driver.

you shouldn't be penalized for handing something in early!!!

Every time I beat on my Chevy something breaks. Wasn't that way with the ole F150.

:flag:

I said wanted, not that he got.

too heavy and refined with an 8500rpm revving v8 though...