///M5

It really depends on your goals, most people are more bass head than they admit which is why you see the BL as more popular. Potential for more output than the Q, but at the trade-off with response.

lol

I'd go get a cheap DMM to measure all your connections before assuming the amp is dead.

You clicked through things really fast actually I thought when you were here. The interface is nice.

A couple things. 1st I never once recommended that you focus on SQ at all, in fact the exact opposite I was encouraging you; however, you did claim you didn't want exaggerated bass in one post and state you don't have enough midbass already and then you want 2kw and BTL's which will give you exactly what you asked to not have in hugely exaggerated bass. Considering what you state you want I said you should buy it, perhaps the truth in my response tickled you the wrong way but still it will do what you are looking for. If you think I trip people up you must only read a very small portion of this forum...

I've got a massive prick as well

310 will do what you need with the 701

Umm, you already said you have no midbass which means your bass will sound fake and exaggerated.

I am disturbed as well. You should be able to buy nice paint for $200

I have to learn everything for a product ops test on Thursday. I got a 95 on the first one but still don't quite understand how... Nope, my parent's '01 Volvo V70 that my dad backed his truck into...amazingly, only the door was damaged and none of the surrounding panels...the truck got a quarter-sized dent and a little scuff on the taillight Do you already have clear or thinner or anything? Almost any 2 stage without having some of it ahead of time will put you over the $100 mark, especially for a non-typical color which Volvo of course will use.

For a 310/H701 I'd sell it and your h/u and enjoy for a long time.

Maybe a better question is have you ever heard a sub setup that sounded terrible and was actually loud? To me if the front stage can't keep up it sounds terrible, but from what you are asking it sounds like you could really give a chit about that therefore total sub output is all you care about and not at all SQ. Buy the BTL's and be prepared for bass swamping out your front stage like crazy.

The ending to the Vikes game was sweet.

I like olives, I like things from the garden, I'd love to have olive's growing in my garden, but can't say the same about the restaurant though.

mmmm ????????

I will surely be asking for input I hope it isn't *too* cold when you move - hope all goes well. Eff it, paying movers but thanks for the wishes.

Is this for the van?

but I won't have any money

I can actually start some projects soon!!

Personally I am textile fan, and if you can the RNX is a big step up from the RLY.

Oh, do remember that regularly when designing with sub-par components it requires you change the design which then gives you another nasty compromise.

There is no generic correct answer to that as it may all be backwards. Really what you want in an amp is sound design, sound construction, and high quality subcomponents. In particular from your list I highly question the components on the lower priced units.

Headroom is your friend.

Both are just different acoustic weighting curves. They are both made to be simple to calculate and not really for the most accuracy, but the basic idea is that your ear is not a linear device and is more sensitive to some frequencies than others. A weighting is a method of re-flattening your ears response curve to model how you would perceive the sound. C weighting is similar but also compensated for higher volumes. Both are very simple linear additions/subtractions of dB at each 1/3 octave bin frequency.

Not so sure the test helped, but will say for sure that they will get better when done correctly and not worse. fix that electrical!