///M5

The IDQ is a very "normal" sub. Nothing special. If you get a steal on one fine, but otherwise many better ways to skin the cat. Their game is far from output as well....

Rumors here in Europe are that the coup was started by the President to enable the removal of his opposition. He needs to be removed from power...bad.

I have a little specific gravity tester. If it is effective for the temp I need and not dirty fuck it. If it isn't it gets "flushed". Quotes are because I don't use the mechanic term but a logical one. Pull the last return hose from the system so it goes down the drain, add a water source to the input so that it doesn't run dry. Run the engine until you have only water coming through. Need to make sure you have removed or bypassed your thermostat though so it actually flows. Also the technique I used to change from dexuncool to real antifreeze. No orange bullshit in my car.

Measure your coolant. If it tests fine and isn't contaminated I see no reason in changing it. If either of the other two conditions exist I'd change it completely.

The forum edits terms people don't understand. SQ & SPL are opposites so combining them makes no sense. Have a flat response that has output however does. That all being said you can't evade Hoffman's Iron Law so if you want more output the best approach is a larger box and a woofer chosen for the space.

I am in Germany atm, so you only get a link... http://www.soundsplinter.com/rli8_subwoofer_information.html

Ear sex

Perhaps stated more clearly. In the past 20 years none of my vehicles have EVER had both tweets and both mids all be in electrical phase.

In case someone has a second I have an 8" Rli Soundsplinter, but only a single.

Glass insurance is usually a stupid good idea. I think mine is $15/yr

Obviously. I've seen your installs. I'd be tempted to add a power switch on the remote wires of the amps to have the rest turn on, then flip the switch and make sure that the uber delay solves the problem.

Does the H800 do anything else goofy? 3 seconds is a super long time for it to boot up. I blame it but can't say I have great ideas on what to check on it. Naturally I'd double check all my grounds, but eek

I'd like a castle and my own vineyard

You mean stupid

That is a Pandora's box question. Not trivial to pull off by any means and if you don't pull it off right the net effect can easily be a worse response. The PA portion of the question makes it even worse as 90% of the drivers on the market will be bad for the question at hand, but of course there are exceptions that could work. If they are too it would require quite the tweeter install to mate nicely as well. Ignore the recommended rms lol. Much more important to model it and understand what it means. You do reference midbass so yes there are tradeoffs, but understand them don't assume them. This is definitely the first step before even thinking about a ported front stage.

Makes more sense. Amps are turning on too fast. The minidsp delay circuit or another will solve it. Sucks the h800 doea that

I am about done drinking for the day

That makes me feel better as i have had more than my share already. You've refreshed my need for a refreshment.

Is the click on both? I have 5 of them with that board albeit only one nvx but none of mine make any turn on turn off noises.

View of Germany & Austria from my balcony

The fox box on first peak doesn't look like a possible solution at all. All marketing, no engineering it seems.

I've never once voted for a Democrat as President, but will be the second time I don't vote for a Republican if it stays as it is.

Either that or some fresh real independent needs to step up and show the Western world that nutso leftist BS and capt crazy shouldn't run for president.

And seriously Trump? That is your reaction? The party has to switch candidates and FAST!

Holy crap Nice