///M5

Hmm, what?

Seeing that my battery is the original and 15 yrs old, I am going to replace it whether or not there is a draw on my system. Discharging to nothing about 10 times in the past weeks I am sure will be the cue de'gra. Being it is an underseat battery I am limited to 6.75" or so in height which leaves me three options (unless you give me more): 1) A replacement from the stealer $130 2) An Interstate battery for $90 http://www.interstatebatteries.com/Batteri...Line_MTP-93.htm 3) An Optima for $130'ish but it will have to be laid down. My gut says that the Interstate is just as good as the Optima other than not being sealed. Having to lay the Optima down scares me a bit as well, where the interstate plugs in stock. What should I do?

My battery keeps dying and I think I might have a parasitic draw. To simplify the troubleshooting process I would love to buy a DC ammeter that can measure 10mA to 500mA+. According to the M5 owners group 20-30mA at the off and settled position is normal. Since I am buying one it would be a cool tool to measure current going to my speaks as well. Anyone have recommendations on where/what to buy??

Gonna be hard to make it stick to that "even" surface as well.

Unless you can *perfectly* measure the volume in your trunk and it happens to be *just right* you really can't port an IB setup. Plus your tuning would change everytime you put anything in your trunk. You can fire your sub and port directly into the car from a box though. In which case you can either build it in the car, or build it externally but have it fit so you can bolt it in place where the port and cone fire directly into the passenger compartment.

Outside cleanup, ha?? The dust will blow away. I just pull mine through the garage door into the driveway and rip away. It ought to be fun today, I am building a mantle for my fireplace and have chosen to cover it in MDF first since it is such an easy surface to work with. Gonna bolt the MDF to the brick and then glue/brad the mantle up. Should really help hide the fasteners. Will post pics when I am done.

Mounting depth?

I've studied the night before for all 3 midterms this quarter, but I admit they weren't that hard. It's so hard to study long in advance b/c by the time the test rolls around, I'll have forgetten what I studied a week ago. Thought that was supposed to be how college worked

I'm with you, lets two way street this a bit better. Plus don't men hate shopping??? I do, and now it is too late to do it online.

Cause the Chinese haven't figured out how to make good ones yet.

I pull my radial arm saw outside for working with MDF, either that or I need to spend 10 min with the leafblower in the garage afterwards. Outside FTW.

Since the glue is stronger than the wood even with a lowly butt joint, I wouldn't be too worried about getting fancy. Miters are fine, especially if you find them easier. All you really need is a good surface to glue on.

And props on your email to Goob, I'd spend more time visiting if those issues weren't there.

Oh, I didn't comment on the XPS. My old Dell latitude's sound card was down 8db at 6.5kHz, I am sure the new ones are better but ALL laptop manufacturers pretty much use the cheapest on board sound that supports video functions that they can get. Always a good idea to use a ProAudio card for a ProAudio function. You will really like the M-Audio box especially for music playback. Much, much, much better processor to plug into your ToObz. Mine has balanced outs and ins, pennis does the USB version have them to??

I'd be wary of any Creative board...freq. response & phase aren't typically held very tight, needless to say that is of course why they bought M-audio. The MLS system should do noise and FRF's as well. It might even do stepped sines, don't know anything about that software. Good deal tho.

Neeed......to......find......more.......space......under.....the.......rear..... seat!

I have an M-audio PCI card in my PC and it rocks. Using it to A/D my analog sources. NP: I call my baby pussycat, Funkadelic

Holy crap, that is cheap. MLS is the only way to do time arrival and can be "worth it" for that alone. Here is the mic, I have: http://www.bksv.com/pdf/Bp1380.pdf But mine was a gift.

MLS? Details? Not really sure what you mean by that. Stands for Maxima Length Sequence, basically it is a pseudo-anechoic way of measuring speaker and or microphone response. It is a near pink noise signal that is 100% periodic over a defined powers of N (the higher the more accurate the measurement). The periodicity allows you to ignore reflections in your measurements as *generically* it understands the time base response and can look at just the primary output from the speaker. For R&D speaker development this technique is a must, but I would like to understand why it is proposed to be used for the car audio environment? For tuning it can be useful to determine how on axis your response is, but the technique of using a SSR (steady state response) seems much better. I am in the process of developing a pseudo SSR input for my cpu. Basically it will do swept sines, but dwells at locations (I am thinking of doing 1/48th, 1/24th octaves) and at each location plays the sine until the difference in the average acoustic pressure is within some amount of uncertainty (settable) it then records that value and "steps" to the next sine wave. This gives you a 1/nth octave output of your true response without ringing transients in your car from previous tones. I think it would be mucho useful for setting up a system. Anyone have any thoughts?

If the booze is free get your ass there ... if it isn't, well ... take your time. Good point. Im Druuuuunk... God damn. 8 crown and cokes + 1 pack of ciggs ended up being $58 and some change. I hate Dallas for that reason. If that is downtown, Dallas is cheap. Try Chicago for a while, I had to move to the Twin Cities for that reason alone. Dang average weekend bar tab busting 2 bills I couldn't hack.

You should have gone to a private school!

G' night, time for me to pass out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You listen as well as your feces.

....when you own a $1500 mic for your RTA and have only used it for eq'ing your car in the past few years

Doh! Good reason to get an aftermarket stereo. Ford stereo's suck. I too thought there was a manual eject button, but I guess if the electronic one doesn't work you are going to have to go fishing. I'd recommend the skinniest tool you can find like a good tweezers and some gentle persuasion.