///M5

Probably the case fan, super easy to change. When you open it look and see what size it is, it will either be 80, 90, or 120mm. If it is a 120, get a Nexus they are so quiet you can't hear them. In order to use my cpu as a jukebox in the house I had to go that route. Normally it is either screwed in with two/four screws or if it is a pretty good case it should just be held in by little plastic tension plugs and will pull right off, it will have a little electrical connector that is self-explanatory. If it is your PSU it is a little more difficult to get the fan out, but the power supply should come out easyl

And what I will probably do, but had to ask anyway

Especially if it is an AMG, Boing!

Yep, pretty long drive for me

True, forgot about that

Umm, it amplifies the output of your HU

here's a quick version of what you might want. I would move the port to the center that way it acts like a brace and your subs load evenly. this should look sweet! but i would go with a bit lower tuning if I were you something like 26-28hz it wont be as loud but the speakers will be safer because they won't unload as easily. later, The attatchment stil works but it didn't keep your info i input so just fill in the blanks. 3.5cuft driver displacement .4 (add more here for bracing) tuning height and width sweet program huh it even tells you what pieces to cut and its accurate every time. A lot easier than doing it by hand like I have been....

Progress is good, gasket problems bad, but at least we know this is going to be one kick-butt driver when it is done.

Only real disadvantage is power and you would be surprised what your stock electrical system can take as long as you do the big 3.

Delayed welcome to you.

Has anyone used the 6.5"s? I think they might be the only thing to fit under the rear seat of my truck. I looked at raising the seat, but then no-one could sit there and since I use it for hauling da boat and carrying 3/4 people around I don't know if I can do that. My other option is to stuff an Rli10 in the glovebox, but that sounds like much more work.

DOA = teh svck. Warranty ftw. My stuff has been out of warranty for years.

Sweet, that VLX is as long as my....

Ha, ha the first time I read this it read: My little lonely 8" enclose-whore wants something big in her to pound her hard and long.

Looking good so far, but if it were me I would double up that baffle and add some bracing otherwise you are going to have a flex-box of course depending on the drivers and power you throw at it. Also, since the sides aren't perfectly flat I would sand them down before putting the top on. Having a 1/4" lip on one side will put tremendous extra stress on the top. I am sure you had planned on this but thought I would point it out.

All I did was a little math: 33"X31"x15" / (12"x12"x12") = 8.8cuft Your plans of "1.75^3 feet per sub with 24^2 inches of port per sub tuned to 32 hz" are just fine.

Sounds to me like you are defining the "Rlp", DVC 2ohm in a ported box. What amp are you looking at, what kind of car, and what sort of music?

Don't need it even on those. The day I became a fan of SC cars was the day I bought my SHO with 9psi of SC. Instantaneous throttle response and uber happy revs. That thing ripped. Definetely faster and quicker in a straight line than my M, but WAY less refined. If it would have been RWD I'd probably still be driving it, but I got really sick of the front wheel dance.

20 za's at 10:30?? I thought retailers were like house realtors and they didn't get up before 10. Crazy they want lunch 30 minutes later...

off to have some fun... night

crazy dudes on tv putting on underdrive pulleys. I just don't understand why you would want to overheat for a few horses.

if I go soon, I can still wake up the woman

975.....do I whore the next 25?? ah, maybe I will go to bed instead.

think I had too much crap goin on

so which is it, w or b?