///M5

If you are just doing headers, the power won't be that much different and the mpg neither--probably enough to pay for the headers in a 100k miles or so. And as Tirefryr said unless you go with the long tubes the sound won't change much either. When you say "rumble" I do picture long competition headers with big tubes running through a sort of stock muffler and high flow cat. Something like that will sound nearly stock at running RPM's with some more throat, but at idle you might have enough lows to set off car alarms. Plus the bonus is then it will allow you to go overboard on the rest of the engine and not have the exhaust be the weak link. Oh and about Summit. They are great. I have ordered a couple sets of pistons, headers, tranny parts, and all sorts of other things from them. Shop around though as they aren't always the best deal, but they are definetely good to work with.

Maybe they are awesome, but only if necessary--and I love it if they are necessary; however, they are also the biggest electrical noise source in your car. Swap the big 3 and make sure you need it before you buy one. Or if you want to be cheap, there are a bunch of luxury cars that came stock with at least a 130amp alternator and from a j. yard these are like 35$.

IMO if you don't swap out the cats, save the money and get the smaller header. Of course if it were me, I would get the bigger headers and do the other stuff too. Warning, they are sort of a beyotch to get on.

Hey, that would be too easy. I would only have to build a baffle since my current 5.25 are the german mount backwards type. I will probably yank my doors off and see what else I can do this weekend.

Depends on what you are looking for. Tirefryr is correct in that going too large without some lumpy cams and other pieces will reduce your acceleration, but 1 5/8" is definetely not too large even for stock cams, injectors, and timing curves. Most importantly is again that you get something with smooth transitions that is made from bent tubing instead of being cast. Generically less bends is better as well. Are you looking for a little more grunt, more real exhaust sound or what is the push to buy headers?

My concern as well. Going to go DIY of some sort for sure now though, just haven't decided what. My recent (hours ago) install of a new Rlp has definetely made me want more mid-bass than the puny bimmer 5.25"s can put out. Anyone have any thoughts on the Dayton tweet?

Conviently, I have a Dinan suspension and pretty much nothing will make it sag! As for an estimation on cost, I spent about $240 on the enclosure, but in reality could have easily built it for about half of that. I had a hard time sourcing the right material and built the mold with the wrong glass and too much resin. Now, for the not so funny part. I made a whopper of a mistake when assembling the box. I used T-nuts and didn't glue them in place relying on their little hooks to bite into the mdf. Needless to say, 3 of 8 broke loose and wouldn't tighten. And you say what is the big deal with that? They wouldn't loosen then either. After a couple days of swearing--and delaying my install I finally got the bolts out and everything mounted in the car--about 2 hours ago. I will spend some time listening to the sub (and breaking it in) over the next week and update my feelings; however, my first impression is that the clarity is superb. I have heard bass notes that were previously tonally identical to others even though they are not. They just weren't there with my twin JL's before. The output is very linear and makes it through my sealed trunk very well. On a sad note, it is a bit hard to evaluate as now my front stage is COMPLETELY inadequate--my next project of course. So far, I am loving the Rl-p for sure. Thanks Mike!

Well. Got back from CA yesterday. Just sprayed it with bedliner tonight, if all goes well I will have some extremely overwhelmed fronts come tomorrow! I still might carpet it later, but wanted to have my stereo back.

I see lots of room....

There are two others that NEED to be included, and an extra: As you might guess I would put in the: E34, S28 BMW M5 straight six (1991-1994 US) 1964 Ford 427 SOHC. Based on the FE series engine (Std Ford block of the time) was the first major US engine with overhead cames. So destructive in its time that it was banned pretty much from every competition it was entered in. And from a reliability standpoint, the best 6 ever made was: The BMW 535i I6. Super reliable, torquey, and real easy to work on.

Hmm, is that really "sealed" and is it structural? You might want to look into adding a real baffle and strengthening up the structure if it isn't. That's what I'd do, and of course up to the rl-i10 but thats up to you, I am sure the 8 would rock too.

They were always bought by someone who has pretty much left them alone. Hopefully for the MB named products that will hold true.

Somethin' finally for the xxx naysayers!

You can pretty much blow anything if you are clipping your signal. Speakers do not like square waves very much. Get a digital multi meter and use it (search the forum for Gain Setting) and you would be fine even with way more pwer than the sub should support...

If so it is about to get resolved.

Isobaric will REQUIRE twice the power as a single woof setup...

Man I hate that store, but I guess for this I will go...

Duplicolor is only paint to match the outside of your car no? How about the bedliner, are you saying to goto the W for that too?

Yep, I get the same, go for it.

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

I have a tendency to over do everything, especially when I don't know. Actually when I finally measure the response of my fronts, I will be using a 24bit, 20Mhz (yep MHz) data acquisition card and a B&K mic to time align/flatten the response in my car. Don't really need that accuracy, but when you have it you use it. Being that I have never built a crossover, that may be as overbuilt and as interesting as well. Any recommendations on what else I should go overboard on??? Oh, and Acidburn I love the Avatar!!!!

Overengineered, I am sure. I have never done this before and read too many blogs where the recommendation was 14-15 layers without realizing that they weren't using 2oz mat. Oops, guess it didn't need to be an inch thick but I guess the box flexing coloration should be minimized. The box has 5.5 gallons of resin in it, at least 14 yards of 2oz mat, and a bunch of mdf (of course including a buch that I trimmed off) It is damn heavy now, but once I add in a 33lb driver I think it will be pretty close to 150lbs--more than twice as heavy as my 1" mdf double baffle, 3 cuft box. There are a couple light coats of body filler on it now, but I am out of town for a week. As soon as I get home I will get on finishing it. I too realized after the fact I should have rounded that edge, luckily it doesn't pop out too far into the trunk so hopefully I can disguise it pretty good.....Ugh, can't wait to finish and start on the front stage!

Looks cool. If you want to get the flat part shiny, tape off all the incidentals and use a little trivoli compound and a buffing wheel (or dremel buff attachement). It will all be mirrorlike then.

I won't knock Dave either; however, since the quote was so short there is some real important missing info...

Better brace that thing, at resonance it is going to hump!!