///M5

Have a whole shelf of things that are pickled. Crazy what happens when you clean the fridge.

Doh, here is how I use "leftovers". Greek pitas being toasted into "naan", the one red snapper I didn't cook when we had Mexican with some leftover san marzano tomatoes and Mexican crema "makhani" and some leftover crab turned into California rolls.

Nice

Seriously? Sweet. Any "chains" that carry it? Pretty sure the O'reilly (hey it is 3min away) near me doesn't have it.

And that decision determines the space...

Huge sealed box required and I wouldn't spend the money on the wood to house those things. If you have to use them as it has already been said do it IB. Wasting money on the drivers is bad, but even worse to waste it on the enclosure too as nothing worth a shit for Home Audio will work in the same box.

Wedge, square, sphere whatever it doesn't matter. As for depth, no way in hell you are multiple inches short.

I sold my Ranger, this is in a wakeboard boat. Definitely start with your max space....should do that before even shopping for drivers IMO.

No way you are going to have any benefit doing what you propose. Just going to be a mess. 150Hz is not sub-bass realm either, that is midbass. Sure you can have a sub play up there and sometimes it makes sense, but not the way you are proposing going about it.

Depends on your purpose with WinISD. You are looking at a transfer function which in general shows a shape, but isn't all that useful. I basically never use that screen for anything. As for ported and 15 Xcon - YES. I ported the 15" Xcon in my boat and it is sweet.

You need to start out more simple. If you want crossovers buying a comp set is stupid. Running a midbass with a comp set makes no sense as well. Asking for "eq" doesn't clear anything up. I'd rethink everything else first.

Because there are about 800 different ways to do it and the one that is best is what you need. If you don't know why you need an eq it won't make your system sound better. Sounds to me like you don't need anything atm.

Perhaps re-reading would help. What processing do you need?

Options are endless, but pc's are WAY easier, better & cheaper than a mac. I'd personally never buy a 360.3. First step is to decide what processing you need. Can't shop until you know that.

Cdt and midbass aren't normally something I'd say together.

Going out solo in Monday. If I ride the rush I am putting on at least 200 as I have some frustration to burn.

So I drank a bottle of roederer with some homemade pork sausage instead of a night time rip.

They better not screw up first ascent or I will seriously cry. Half my shirts are eb fa stuff as their large tall bias wide shoulders and a narrow waist

Watching it this morning I thought you would be happy.Get to play in any of it? Sled running yet? spent 3.hrs in the garage today. Cleaned the carbs, redid some wiring. Fired it up and idle was fine. Give it a little gas and ny gauges went blank and then popped back on. They run on dc everything else ac. Stator, regulator ir wiring has to be duckies. Need a spare hand to measure voltage off the stator. Resistance measured pretty close. Should have run fine with a shifty reg but not with a scrapping stator. Cdi perhaps but I am unsure.

Almost white out here! THank god!

Jealous. We haven't had snow in 3 weeks. Have more on the ground than that but it is hard

So now you care about parameters? Before you claimed all trial and error was better. Waffle around some more. Not saying anything about avoiding Chinese crap, that is a no brainer. Btw, it is rather easy to measure drivers...

Unless you're taking the acoustic properties of the cabin of the car into consideration, the enclosure will have an entirely different response once in the car.Which is rudimentary 101 in modelling. Trial and error is stupid without modelling.

You are forgetting acoustics my friend.The post wasn't meant to be entirely technical. But touche. 1w SPL means nothing, though, since all subs react differently to varying amounts of power. Umm, wrong. It means exactly what it is, efficiency is related to output per watt. Doesn't mean manufacturers measure it appropriately for the task at hand. Todd, the answer is really rather simple. Box size & cheap power. PA drivers need a ton of space and while they run with less power, power is cheap so why waste all the space. I have an awesome car audio errr pro audio driver in my basement. The first "beast" subs were pro audio subs that were slightly massaged for car audio applications, but this is when a 1000w amp was rare so you just dealt with the needed box size since it was the best choice. Actually, different loudspeakers react differently to different power levels. I'm sure you've heard of power compression. The efficiency rating is nothing more than the output at 1w/1m. It does not always tell how the loudspeaker will perform with more power. Nice way to try to spin that lol. Ignore it all you like. I am very aware of power compression.

Looking seriously at gutting my kitchen and doing all new cabinets. Sort of have to if I take down a wall.