///M5

Well let's see how about sundown told me they are great 4th order subs, how about the loudest jeep in the world/ world champion for multiple years in a row is running 4 zv4 15s in a 4th order wall and doing 160s, not saying that's what mine will do but I'm simply stating that the subs work great in a 4th. Just a simple as that. But this is my last message, so I already have a design now and I'm going to build it. You could have just said you have no clue and maybe it isn't but wanted to make it sound legit. What you cited has NOTHING to do with specs. As for the rest, well enjoy hauling dirt with your Honda.

About to go attempt to pick up the truck

Everyone who said use 3:1 was joking. Seriously. So you know it is good for a 4th BP, yet you can't state why? In other words you just want it to be because you want to try one. If you are okay with that even though it won't net you as good of results as a different alternative go ahead. If you aren't okay with having a less than optimized system then spend the time to answer the question. When you do you will finally have learned something.

Hmm, according to this: http://www.pca.state.mn.us/index.php/view-document.html?gid=4068 Since the car has over 50k miles and the factory converter is "faulty" I can put on an aftermarket one. Would be stupid IMO to only replace the converter when I can open up the whole exhaust system. Curious on grandfathering. Would assume if something was built legally then it remains legal at least for a period of time.

Pretty good buy unless you make a jump to significantly more power. Sort of a pointless question. Even if it only did 800w you wouldn't be able to hear a difference. It is also a sub amp so if it were rated at 10% distortion you wouldn't notice either. Add to that it is powered by 110vac instead of 12vdc and yep, how it looks is deceiving. PE's line of amps from 300+ are all nice and in their category great bang for the buck setups. I have a 500w one upstairs in my office atm.

Does CARB so no performance cats then too? ie, I couldn't add a turbo and new cat setup on the custom exhaust (I know stupid, but as a retrofit if MN copied CA a fucking again)

As for the boost options, no matter what I win. Just want to win the most for today and tomorrow.

SwedishKoenessigegegegeggegggege(top gear spelling) yes, bugatti, French. Originally at least.I ignored ze Germans, but run a Swede. Been driving it for the past couple days and for being a boring POS it is pretty nice. Seats are fucking great in Volvo's.

The Belgians stole the French Fries

i also think a bit out of place

Swedish

Was a shitty powerdyne s/c too.

That is the way the SHO was too Ryan. Only problem with that car though was you better fucking watch once you hit 4k as 8500 came NOW.

It is what it is and it is now. Price is all about the same, within a couple hundred bucks anyways. Turbo really depends on the exhaust $. And the diesel guys get a million miles out of theirs sometimes. Can be the cheapest if you fab, I am buying all manifold and connections off the shelf though.

Of course, it has SQ.

Since I am so rational

I am just not sure I want the complexity of buying used diesel turbo's and outfitting them to a cadillac. If I buy new though you just took another $4k away from me which I don't think is something I can rationalize on a truck.

Twin turbo with a couple tunes. ;-) 1000 HP DD that will sip gas if you have it turned down. Can get pretty close to that with a single squirrel cage, obviously won't spool as quick though. A couple cheap used Holsets as a twin setup may not even be that much more expensive. I assume I could go as small as an HX35/40 if there were a pair of them.

Another reason for an intercooler build for me. Have to add some trans cooling as well.

That and the 6L80 NEEDS a temp gauge. When she is hot there are problems if you continue.

Also figure that the Turbo will be the most fuel efficient when not deep into boost.

Just relaying deductions from the technologies and internet bullshit though so please correct/lead me the right direction. I am buying one of the three for sure. I would suck too much at filling the NOS to make that a solution for me and I drive aggressive all the time, not just when I flip a switch.

As for FI: Roots style - power now, best for moving the heavy ass beast off the line, CARB approved, hardest on the tranny and least overall power potential. Centrifugal - a little lag, but more potential, a little easier on the tranny but with a boost controller I can have 2 profiles in tune, whiny as fuck. Turbo - all the benefits of the Centrifugal without the extra load on the engine to power the charger. Most overall power potential. More lag although I am pretty sure I can size on with that engine to bring me way up in power without lag that extends too far.

Read above your quote here. It's all about the exhaust. They COULD be CARB legal, but the money and time would make the kits too expensive and would never sell, so it's pointless. Any time you make any part of the exhaust different from OEM, you are in violation. Depends on the exhaust system. An esky goes 2 into one, but it does run 2 cats. So it must feed exhaust thought both cats before the turbo. While not impossible, it is a nightmare. FWIW a Turbo is not optimal for towing. A turbo (particularly intercooled) requires engine RPM and exhaust flow. You can compensate by using a loose converter, but you build heat. This heat buildup is an extremely bad thing when yanking weight behind you. IMO, while I am not a big supercharger fan (sorry, I owned a built to fuck GN), an SC makes more sense in Sean's case. I tow a 2,000lb trailer for 99% of my towing. Stock it has plenty of power for towing it. Figure a turbo does make sense for the economy of it and lack of extra load on the rest of the engine to compensate for spinning the charger. If I were towing I would go SC. No question. A turbo is my preference, but in all honesty I think you would be happier with an SC, just based on what I have read about your driving preference and requirements. Perhaps I wasn't clear. I don't care about towing performance. If it is worse than stock that is ok. Actually more worried about the brakes in that regard. Here is what I figure: Stock 378ci = 403hp/417ft lb Mine* 427ci with bigger valves, lower compression, and a turbo cam. Without the FI, the power difference shouldn't be a big deal and I bet it will be fine towing stock. *what I am contemplating atm Also has the stock 6L80 which I would suspect won't like 800hp if it is NOW. A little lag would extend it's life, wouldn't it? Towing and boost from idle I'd imagine to be extra hard on it. What I've gathered is that the clutch packs fail first usually with FI and a poor tune. I could be absolutely stupid and backwards though...