///M5

Something I rarely share, but have some that I finally can. Work pics to follow.

Gotcha, my comment was only because you added a lot of variables on top of alot of variables...or so it sounded. Working out what changes what & where and teaching your ear is the most important thing. I would also recommend that you absolutely IGNORE staging at the moment. There is always a compromise between FR & staging in any install and the staging cues are easy for anyone to hear, training your ear to listen to FR is much more difficult. There is somewhat of a saying in music, if you can't sing it you can't play it. And that doesn't mean anything about words. I spent too many years running a sound board though, can whistle/hum nearly any 1/3 octave band on cue...the really high ones I can't actually voice, but they "sing" in my head. Collectively though between different instruments and voice I have an amalgamated > 35 years of private lessons. I will add that ear training is by far the most important part of playing anything.

Your door cards are shot, cut em up. If your car were a restored cherry it'd be different. Putting a 4 down there won't work for shit. If it has to stay stock just forego the stereo completely.

Alton i'd spend more time with settings on one set of drivers instead of swapping drivers so fast. It takes weeks to nail things down not hours. Glad you are listening

simple if statement

Mixing 4's and another size driver makes no sense. Put your drivers in the middle and you will have mono more or less. You need an acoustic barrier more than deadening, but a package of course is the best. As for the space, I realize there isn't much room. I did mistype above though, i didn't mean to imply an enclosure but just an elevated baffle to move the driver away from the door to increase clearance. Add a little map pocket to it and it can even look nice and be close enough to stock.

This could be easily fixed

When I picture old school dually it is more like this:

The problem IS the crossover, you need a different one. I'd recommend an active capable headunit.

take off the extender

go outside

That car needs deadening. Some weight won't kill it. It will be WAY easier to make it quieter to improve the stereo than to make the stereo louder so you can hear it. WAY. There has to be some room behind that door card. If not perhaps you build out an enclosure from the door. It is flat so it'd be easy.

Duh, timer

That isn't a 3 way crossover that will work for what you are trying to do. That is a 3 way crossover meant to crossover components that already have a crossover but no low frequency protection. No way to use it to run a 2 way active set.

Use the 3 way crossover. Perhaps I read the question wrong, but you state you want to do a 2 way active with a 3 way crossover and your amps have no crossovers...to me that is a benefit, I would much prefer up front controls. Your crossover points sound a bit strange, more information would be helpful.

Depends completely on speaker layout...and of course if home theater is truly a priority. Most diy builds do not have very optimized center channels which is a bummer for HT when 70% of the information if not more comes from it. Super critical to have the center and mains match.

What does that mean? Depending on the answer above there may be some way better choices.

There is a sigma 17-50 2.8 OS on CL for $350 said they'd take 325. Thinking about picking it up, taking it to asia, returning and then selling it when my Canon returns. Noisy focus so it isn't great for video, but otherwise extremely comparable to the Canon.

Slap it on the 70d and weigh it up even more. Effin' heavy.

The vs is because it is never enlightening and no poster ever gives enough information to actually answer the question. In many case, it isn't even possible. Same here, no one can answer can this sub handle Xwatts at 20Hz. Bottom line is it is ALWAYS a terrible idea and really shouldn't be at all part of your buying decision. If it is, then just by a 5000w sub for a 500w amp and have an inefficient pointless setup.

Corrected

Thanks Matt, that is what I was thinking,but wanted some opinions. That is what most of my pics are. I never do any portrait shooting. 16-50 for sure. Indoors longer than that is only good for head shots.

and power compression, thermal and mechanical limits alobg with two dubious amplifier brands. Not where I'd recommend spending money first

I generally prefer solder though as there are no questions. After using a cheap crimped years ago I question even good crimps. Figure using uninsulated ones wouuld be better too. Obviously I will insulate myself.

Errm, do weatherpacks fit ? I had planned on using some if I NEED to add quick releases anywhere. Do they make single crimp connectors? I have always soldered but high heat and high vibe I've read on snow forums can fail.