Shogen

I'm only unsure of the " # of Common Port Walls " ... someone? anyone?

So here is the deal fellas.... I don't have the best room to work with and I'd like to maybe get this done sooner rather later Would I be okay with this:

That's too long.. What is in there right now???

No you ain't!! And hurry it up!

FINE! be like that.... !!

How much did you pay if you don't mind me asking????

The actual wait is the month or so depending on the steel... Sucks but worth the wait... Those subwoofers get crazy reviews...

Forgot to say.. I hate Dipset... So that would be why I didn't know who he was... Love Das-efx... Bone Thugs was my shit back in the day... lol

To answer your original question, the only difference is the output, 20 amps on top, ~10 or so on bottom. You made the right choice and got the best bang for the buck, use the other $80 on teh audios or have some fun with it. That said, because I know we have 270's in stock (250's are usually built to order) and that's what you'll get shipped, and it will get shipped tomorrow (Friday).. Thanks again for the order and I look forward to a (hopefully) positive review.. Rob Just fcking awesome right there... Now I just wish I could afford that alternator for my Camry and since they discontinued the HP line for my car I'm stuck in the XP category which is good and badd... Let us know how it works out OP...

NICE!! Def should take some photos of it installed and what not....

amazing man... love it... can't wait to get my Xcon in a damn box already...

Plugging in the dimensions from the SSA design into the Torres Calculator shows 3.90 cubes and a tuning of 32.68hz ...unless I did something wrong... Who is correct?

oh and they're box IS too big.. It won't fit... Max dim for me is 16.5H x 33W ... depth not an issue TBH... So you CAN just do a L-port with 90 degree turns? Thought that hindered some sound or added port noise or something to that affect ...

nah... if you look at all those designs simple at first glance but then... How do you get all the bends done? You can't just do 90 degrees turns... 45s are used and then to join them smoothly you need to angle the cuts... That I CANNOT do and without equipment for it, I WILL NOT try to...

So I may understand better... The optimal port area needed should be around what number? 30- 40 or 40-50 or something like 80in??? Even if I don't do this myself I'd like to know.. There is now a thirst for this knowledge..

I guess it's more because I can probably build an enclosure with aeros easier compared to a slot port to be honest.. I have no way to make the cuts that it would require.. But with aeros, I'm just making a sealed box with a hole or holes in it and a tube that goes through it.. basically... Does that make sense??

I don't get it Stef??? IB??? I'm kinda old please explain... lol

Oh missed that part... I read too fast maybe... But just a last thing, I work in computers and no 2 chips or boards are alike... Maybe just OP's cuts out past 14.7v??? Most do 15v? But if that's the case then they should change the site range to 14.5v or something like that....

No there is no way and why would you wanna do that ????? you only will damage your batteries and also you wont get more power outta the amplifier 14 volts is the best voltage for the amplifier our amplifier they make power in low voltage you dont need do that here is a article about batteries, that goes to almost every brand Proper Way to charger your battery Yep yep yep. I personally wouldn't mess raising the voltage using a diode to the stock alt, I'd use a aftermarket HO alt with either an internal regulator or vcm. But either way, some stock vehicles charge past what Jefferson just said. And even my older car does sometimes... So is the website correct with the 9v-15v operating voltage, or is Jefferson correct, and the website wrong? Not trying to call anyone out, but it has to be one way or another, and the website makes more sense... I don't think he contradicted himself... He stated 14v was best.. But the amplifier has a range in which it can operate... Just like if he stated 2ohms was the best to run the amplifier at but it is rated at output for 1-4ohms.... Just saying...

15" Xcon .... Was thinking about going sealed but then the idea of aero ports was brought up and I saw Stef's and loved the look and thought ... "Hey, a sealed enclosure is just a big box.. and a ported with aeros is just some tubing thrown inside of it and cut to the right length for tuning... I can do that.." Should I just do this? I was looking at PrecisionSoundProducts and said I could do this... Not much more work that building a sealed enclosure... Right??? So I looked up on their site for ports calculations and realized after understanding it a bit better that the Torres calculator does it as well... Here is what I come up with and it seem correct... Let me know what's up fellas... Seem off by a bit.... Which is correct??? Or any one of those is close enough??? This is from Torres' Calculator: This is from PrecisionSoundProducts:

I don't think he meant steady output voltage.. I read it as having a system dedicated to 16v+ .... Most alternators output 14v or more... At least that's what I thought...

Vado, never heard of him... but chea and hmmph during or at the end of lines annoys me when done frequently... I love the Big L clips... One of my favorites was L .. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26QI9QB1SEA Off topic but liked this dubstep mix lol:

Sorry.. I'm gonna have to leave Rittz alone and not listen to more than a minute.. I usually give everyone a fair listen... But I think his flow is not what I enjoy listening... this is waaaaaay better and worlds apart...

gotcha.. I mean when I do the alternator positive to the battery positive I will make sure to maybe spark it with the stock wire first? maybe that will be good enough... lol .. But I thought that it didn't spark for me if I have the negative terminal disconnected... Could be wrong though