Shogen

Yea so I have it sitting in my closet and I know it works... I just need the opinions and seems like getting a box for the L7 might be a good idea....

lol... sorry but what are you listening to? Is someone beatboxing???

oddly this box on woofersetc is exact spec for the street bass that Kicker suggests...

http://kicker.com/sites/default/files/SoloBaricL72004TechManual.pdf Page 6 - Sealed Enclosure Page 10 - Ported Enclosure

Teehe.... You can't not plan to go louder if you really enjoy your car audio... Right? Well, I am also running an amp for interiors but yea, there is a chance that I will be going louder later... the alternator is in the back of my mind...... But I'm glad you said that... I will be doing the BIG 3 before I go into the HO alternator. So if I do the L7 which seems like most people are telling me to do... Should I go sealed or ported? I already know that ported allows better output or at least increases output somewhat... Taken from the Kicker support manuals, the SQ setup for this driver is sealed in about 6 cubes and a decent(street bass) setup is a ported enclosure at 4.5 cubes... Apparently the Kicker output it louder at the 40-50 frequency range .... In the sealed seems to be louder at 50-80 frequency range....

Okay. The sub system is powered off of 1 JL 500/1. I have already asked you guys about a Dcon setup.. I figure these are my options: 1. I can install my 04S15L7 which is a 2 ohm DVC which I would wire to 4 ohm. This would require that I get an enclosure for it, which would run me in the $200 range. 2. Next is a 12" Dcon in a ported enclosure to spec which would run me about $300-$350. 3. Lastly, I was thinking dual 12" Dcons in a sealed/ported enclosure which would run me about $405-$500. Add another $400 on top of that because their is a big chance I will be get a DC Power alternator during this process. What do you guys think?

I really wish I could trust that site, I think that in itself makes the advert worse... When I first stumbled on woofersetc I thought it was amazing but then you see how they sell all the "high end" popular brands at lower cost and then they take what seems like a small "cares about quality" company and sell their product at higher brackets that are available everywhere else... But the advert is just trying to sell, I just think the site might be somewhere most people might try to avoid...

Nice... Been grabbing a lot of dubstep since a friend introduced it to me about 7 months ago..

This is pretty intense... guy wants to sell a JL Audio sub but advertises it as Nike Air Force... http://newjersey.craigslist.org/mob/1954489667.html

So back on topic... I say if anything you should just go for the SAZ-1500D v.2 .... If I come into some monies before Christmas I think I am going to splurge on 2 SSA 12' Dcons and SAZ-1500D .... I have a hard time saying "no" to my old lady's wants but now that she will be in England for about 2 weeks I figured I might buy some things before she comes back and sees the packages.... lol

Yea that sounds about right, I have a similar radio... BT610U .... Should be what your issue is....

Where can this be bought?

Just share it with your next random text customer. Or should I say sext???

I must say what everyone HAS to be thinking on here... Will you hook up my stereo and have my babies? This install is a dream that I wish I could make come true inside my Toyota Camry... Although handy, not time and no tools means that I just order a box and deaden the trunk... call it a day....

Well all amps have heatsinks... This is an explanation of it... The purpose of changing a heatsink in the manner that they did was to create more surface area... This basically exposes more of the amp "heatsink" to the air to allow it to cool better....

If I looked at everything correctly then they are the same amplifiers.. Just newer revisions with better heatsinks just to increase cooling capacity which in turn helps with efficiency.... Understand?

My issue is that my setup could be technically simpler if I go for the JL amp but if I save a few and get the Soundstream Ref amp then I can make a more elaborate front stage... Since it can handle a 2 ohm load and it would actually increase output.... I will be mixing and matching midbass woofers and tweeters... just have to find out which amp is the more trusted and true plus I want all the opinions I can get on it.... If you guys mostly pick the JL then my life, setup and install are gonna be easier.. On top of that my wallet won't go so thin...lol

Hey guys... It's me again... This time wondering if I should pick this one up... Can get the JL Audio 300/2 for about $175.. I would be using it for my front stage... I would also like to get some recommendations for the front stage.... I will be removing the rear deck speakers to make subwoofer sound easier to travel into the cabin... Should I pull the trigger or are there other options out there? I have 4 amps that interest me and are within a reasonable price range... I don't think I want to be that close to the $300 mark... So help me out again guys... I just threw a reference Soundstream in there, although I know its over my apparent budget...lol

or go here???? http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

nice nice nice....

Just out of curiosity, any of you fellas located in the NJ, NY, or PA areas? When I say "you" I mean the regulars....

ahh I see... Anyway, I think if you really wanted you could strap another SAZ-1200D and bump it as one, I know Sundown has that capability just not sure if the 1200D offers it... If not for 100 beans more you can go for the SAZ-1500D v.2 which is about 300watts more at 1 ohm and call it a day.... Regardless of power handling on the SSD I wouldn't want to ride around with my daily pumping it at full tilt all the time unless you're not a real bass head....

I have a curious dog. And I sometimes find things from the top shelf in the closets on the floor... Usually harmless stuff... I probably should just sell this crapacitor to someone who thinks they need it....

funny I watched that one as well.... okay guys... guess Imma electrocute myself.... lol

Okay guys.... Your assistance is needed once again... I had my equipment installed by a buddy and since I had planned at the time to run my Kenwood amp at 1 ohm with a 15" Kicker L7 my buddy dropped in a RF 1 farad capacitor while we hooked this all up... I already know this negatives here and so I would like to remove this while I do my amplifier swap hopefullly this weekend.... Here is the big $100k question: How do I discharge the capacitor? I will disconnect the power from the battery and then remove the capacitor fully as I understand it... But I don't want this light bomb sitting in my apartment with energy being stored... only found this link .... Should I just do this with say a household light bulb? I have some 60watt bulbs sitting around the crib maybe a 100watt somewhere... Quick reply means I will hug you... Do you guys take payments in hugs? lol