hdrox88

Looking for saz-3500, bc-3500, aa-3800 or similar power/quality amp. Looking to see what you guys have laying around. Must be in perfect working condition, good cosmetic condition is a plus.

I sent a pm about this a little while ago but never heard anything back. Still available?

It is pretty difficult to tell how attitude comes across on the internet. JUst stating my observation. At any rate, if you are happy with the price to performance ratio, that is what matters.

Most the people on this site don't say stuff just for the hell of it. You are quickly coming off with a know-it-all attitude, at least to me, and are likely to not get the help you are looking for on this site. No one can know the extent or credibility of your knowledge in the audio world, so they start with the basics. There is a wealth of knowledge here, take advantage of it. I know I am, I contribute when I can too.

It sounds like they will be using the factory location which fires straight up and is all the way forward to the glass.

I'm not sure if you have been in the doors of one of these cars, but the panel is a major pita. If you don't have a panel tool, I suggest getting one for this job. I broke several push clips in my 08 charger I had. They aren't the typical Xmas tree style, they have a receiving end in the door itself as well. They are very brittle too.

Just ordered a set of the CA variety. I figure starting with a well known, easy to tune speaker is better for me so I can get a good grasp on what I am doing. Thanks to all for the help and patience. My build log will get an update once they show up.

Have you tried pulling it out of the dash and physically holding it in your hands? Might let you know if it's the shaking/vibration or just the pressure alone that is doing it. Is building extra bracing in the dash an option?

Could it be the iPod itself being disrupted? Sit on it so the seat and your rump can protect it, or use a long cable out of the vehicle. Could the source button be sensitive combined with a unique vibration in your dash? Maybe hold the hu in your hands while playing? Just tossing out random ideas as I have no experience with my 80prs doing this. I'm nowhere near 150db so can't say for sure.

Lol, I hear ya. When I pulled the factory speakers out of mine at 147k miles the cone and surround we're completely separated 100% on both sides. Half the surround was gone, dust in the wind. Had to be the second worse sounding stereo I've ever heard.

Scotch guard should work, so long as it doesn't break down the cone material, lol. It seems like a pretty foolproof remedy. I read somewhere about people stretching pantyhose over the back of the speaker and scotch guarding that. I would think that they would shred pretty soon and become useless.

That's what I figured. The only thing mentioned about the ER is "edge coated" so I am unsure of the durability when exposed to the environment in a door.

When you say they were treated, does that mean there was actually a coating on them to help? I am not sure about the ER in question here.

Would you happen to recall if there was any type of coating on the back of the ER? If they are anything better than the midbass of the XS65 I am pretty much sold on them. I am just worried about them falling apart quickly if they aren't protected in the door.

My list has changed and narrowed slightly. I removed some for price and lack of availability concerns and added another that I stumbled onto. New list in order of interest according to reading specs and reviews: 1. Seas ER18RNX - This has my attention right now after everything I have been reading about them. Only concern with this driver is dealing with the elements as I don't think it has any coating. AZ heat can get extreme in the car, and monsoon season is upon us. Buckets of water can be flowing through a door in a flash storm here. Scotchguard spray may be useful here? 2. Seas L18RNX - Needing LPed at 2khz isn't an issue with my XS28s. The low-mid and mid-bass detail people praise these for is pulling at me considering the amount of rock I listen to. 3. Seas CA18RNX - Pulling a close 3rd on the list due to wide range and neutral, easy to tune characteristics. 4. Aurum Cantus AC165/50CK - Chinese made has me a little worried. Larger voice coil and higher power handling is promising, as well as zaph testing on this driver.

Where did you do the splicing? At the rear speaker? Or behind the HU? All you did was tap into the wires, or did anything get cut? GM does some funny things sometimes with their stereo integration. I had to just through a few hoops myself at one point in my tahoe.

You lost me at enclosure, but hey, there is a first time for everything. 3" coil in a 6" mid? Holy hell...

I think I may hold out to see the sample results. If they are anything like the ethos that are getting so much praise, then these should be worth the wait.

Damn it, I am in the market at the moment too. Don't know if I can hold out that long.

That site is a gold mine if you have a halfway decent understanding of what you are looking at. The in-depth review on the L18 was great and has me considering a driver I probably would have overlooked.

I've read through the two links to zaph to the best of my abilities and there are several drivers that stand out in that review group. I'll list them here in hopes of narrowing them down or getting other suggestions in places to look. I'm not afraid of spending time tuning, just so long as I have slim-to-none of that harmonic distortion to deal with. 1. Seas CA18RNX - Initial suggestion and looks like a great bang for the buck with a pretty wide response range. 2. Seas ER18RNX - Seems like a possible slight upgrade to the CA18. 3. Seas L18RNX - Considering the metal cone after reading this review: http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker17.html and I'm pairing with a tweet that can play fairly low. 4. Seas W18NX - Most expensive in the group, but seems like a really nice driver if it's truly a "get what you pay for" situation. 5. ScanSpeak 18W8531G - Pricey, but looks like a very well rounded driver with "very low HD." 6. 18Sound 6ND430 - Midbass seems a pinch lacking compared to the others, though that may be the compromise for the output I'm looking for. 7. Usher 8945P - Looks great for the price if you can find it available.

I've just been looking through the first link that J just posted and recognized the scanspeak. I didn't spend much time with music at 1.25khz on the xover. When I was playing with tones, 800hz and 1250hz really made the irritation stand out big time. It was actually slightly painful. I can hear it in some of the nearby frequencies as well, but that is where it got really bad. Ha, I just realized I used 1.25khz and 1250hz, don't mind me.

Patience is a virtue...sorry I couldn't help myself. I've had stuff show up before the tracking number ever showed anything. Sometimes it is out of the vendors hands and in fact the shipping company is missing a scan somewhere or their system is slow to update.

Lets see how close I can get, lol 1. Seas CA? 2. Seas U? 3. ? 4. Alpine SPX? 5. Seas W? I only looked up the U. J, I think you are on to something. What you just described makes me feel like you nailed it on the head. At first, I was blown away by these things. As time went on and up til now I get more and more disgusted with them. More-so in the last few weeks. Apparently, harmonic distortion is plaguing me here as no matter what I do I can't get rid of the irritation. I would say that is probably my only real complaint at this point. Every time a voice hits a higher note, I wince. Sometimes mid to high notes on elec guitar will have a strange sound, almost like an echo to it, or as if it were two of them trying to play the same thing at the same time. It makes rock music less than enjoyable when I hear it. What does one look for at this point? I've been surfing the Madisound site and majority of the response plots look fairly close to one another to me. Some interesting stuff on parts express, though I have no idea what I am really looking at.

One of the phase plugs was rolling around in the box when I got them and one of the cones got a small, almost unnoticeable dent. I never thought anything of it. Not sure about warping, but when looking at the driver straight on it looks as if something is misaligned. The phase plug does not look centered compared to the cone/coil.