pherz1er

techflex and heat shrink- The color I picked is called carbon which is half black and half clear. heres some pics. Wire,techflex and my cheapo hot knife. Cut(flexo recomends the use of a hot knife so this stuff does not fray. Mine sucks BTW). Shrink Done I finished most of my power wire(ran out of heat shrink). Now I just have to do the rca's and speaker wire. I plan to manage all of the wire with cable tie mounting pads atached with both the adhesive backing and trim screws. btw:Sorry for posting every small detail that most could care less about. Just trying to make the thread as complete as possible

I had a scrap piece of aluminum laying around so I decided to use it to make a little shelf to hold up my under hood fuse. It still needs some sanding/finishing work and haven't made brackets yet, but here's some pics just to give you the idea.

I removed all of my interior and old wiring so I could start on the deadening. I finished 3 layers on the fire wall, floor pan and under the rear seats but the trunk and roof still need to be done. I also laid down some 1/2" foam(the same stuff I used on the doors). I made sure to test fit the carpet, seats and panels before I glued it down so I would know where to leave the foam out to avoid fitment problems (This is why it looks patchy). I wasn't really happy with the way the foam turned out, but I'm sure it will do the job just fine. my old wires. I plan to reuse most of the wiring with the exception of a few things. fyi...The center chanel is from the previous system and will not be staying. foam prep spray adhesive The seat is back in because this is my daily driver and I will not have time to finish today.

subs: First, I taped off the the top plate of the motor to avoid anything getting in the VC gap. Then I went to town on the back of the motor. (This started out rough.kind of like FI motors). I sanded it smooth then hit it with 400 grit before I applied the metal etching primer. painted the motor black and sanded all 12 spokes with 120,220,320,400,600,1000,and 2000 grit sand paper. After the 2000 grit wet sand I polished them with mothers aluminum polish and a dremel tool. Then instead of masking the spokes I applied a very thin coat of hand soap to the polished areas and let it dry. This is so the paint will wash off those areas after the paint has dried.(see pics). Here's pics of the finished product after a coat of wax. One down... One more to go. And yes...they will be mounted inverted. I got all the glue off of the surround and spider landings. [/

3 layers of deadening some clay and 1/2" foam on the back of the door panel.

Passenger side. knu Konceptz 12 ga. wire 4 lbs. of black non-drying clay The little nylon spacers are to keep the dust cap from hitting the door panel.(for some reason it sticks out a little further than the mounting flange I also added some 1/2" foam to the inside of the door panels (sorry no pics). So far the doors seem pretty solid.

The amp rack was finished before I decided to post this stuff up so the best I can do is show how it is constructed.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my system and figured why not post a few pics. Any reasonable suggestions would be most appreciated. my system will be installed in my P.O.S. 02 cavalier and will consist of 1-An audiocontrol eqx 1- set hertz hsk 165 comps 1 pair of 10" peerless sls (for midbass) 3- rockford fosgate 25th anniversary punch 150's and a pair of Custom SSA Icon 15's(awaiting recones at the momment.) So far I have made some mounting brackets for the hertz mids and my amp rack. more pics and updates will follow but I don't have alot of time to work on my car so finishing this will be slow going. Here is how I made my brackets. The green marks the angle I want cut from the bracket here's the comps.

So I need to build some sort of custom door pods for the hsk mids??

I have hertz hsk 165 comps in the doors the tweeters are a little further than I would like from the mid (due to using holes from a previous owners install) and the 6.5's are silghtly tilted towards the drivers seat. The 10's can be mounted completely on axis if need be. what would you recomend???

I have some peerless sls 10's I wanted to use for midbass in my next three way set up. But there is no way they are going into the doors of my car like I wanted. If I had power windows it would be no problem because the shaft for the window handle would not be in my way. So, instead I came up with an Idea to do some large kick pods that open up into a shallow false floor up front. Which brings us to my question????? Has anyone else heard of and or done something this drastic to get the proper air space for their speakers up front??? If so...Is it even worth it?? Thanks in advanced

Thanks man, Glad you like it.

Here it is with the "p" fixed and in the burnt orange color. And heres a screen shot so you can compare the colors(I put it in the only blank spot I could find).

Thanks man!! here it is colored.

Cleaned it up a little so you could see the letters a bit better.

Yeah, if it ends up getting picked I can change anything up he wants. I kept it black and white because it will save $$$.(only one screen needs to be used for tee shirts and what not.) Also by "definition" do you mean losing those spike shaped cuts that are in the letters???

Here what I came up with... Those are just quick ones btw and can be changed/cleaned up if need be.

Looks great so far!!! I think you should try satin black. it will look 10x better than gloss. just my opinion though...

I will be getting my ssa icon 15's reconed soon(hopfully)and thought I would give them a few personal touches. The question I have is. Should I polish the front of the spokes??(already tried one.. see pic) or go all black? thanks in advance, btw: before anyone asks,Yes.. I have posted this on another forum already.

NM: how much for ssa to recone it?

does that include return shipping???

How much would it cost to recone an ssa icon 15"???? thanks in advance

Every thing but the front baffle(its 1.50") I also have a 1.2cf sealed box I can use if that would work better. BTW There is a chance I can use the xenon amp in my car and buy my wife something better suited for the Rl-p. what do you recomend????

Sorry I took so long to reply. I was waiting for subzero to get back to me with the specs.(which they still have not done.) I did manage to get some dimensions though. 31.50" w x 15.00" h x 10.00" td x 18.00" bd The inside dimensions of the ports. 6.25"w x 2.00" h x 16.00" d Thanks for your help guys.