Frostedflakejake

I had almost the same exact set up in my explorer with the big battery in the back running a sundown 3000 for 3 years and it performed fine. Big 3 and make sure you have good contact with the grounds and hopefully you'll be okay.

Any news?

+1. All their "premium" ratchets are american made. Some of the really common tools they offer made in USA as well as China.

I would model the enclosure to figure a port diameter that would keep port velocity down. I would try to stay below 15 m/s. Flared ports are supposed to allow a higher port velocity without getting turbulent air. My modeling states that I have a max port velocity of 9 m/s and I personally can't notice any kind of port noise or any other behavior that would cause me to think my port area is too small. I could do this modeling for you if I felt so inclined, as could just about everyone involved in this thread. I would have to know the speaker and the box size and the tuning.

It's a lovely night to make rounds gentlemen! Too bad the ultrasonic cleaner is annoying as hell

Then you have to pick a compromise.

A subsonic filter. It's used to stop lower frequencies from getting to the sub. Frequencies that are lower than the box tuning will increase sub travel drastically, causing the speaker to reach it's physical limits very quickly. If you don't use a SSF on a ported enclosure expect the subwoofer to break. Especially during movies.

I ended up having two subwoofers. One for music, one for movies. I use a MiniDSP for processing.

Those are two drastically different applications. Most people tune in the mid teens for movies whereas tuning for music is more often in the low 30's. I did this with a JL 15W0V3 and the info can be seen here: http://www.homeaudioforum.net/topic/664-jl-15w0v3-and-bash-500w-plate-amplifier/

I pulled the trigger on one this past summer They are just good ol' fashioned fun.

Hopefully you've also come to learn/contribute

Doing that here will get you kicked as a moderator. If I recall correctly that's why DSS is no longer here under the manufactures section. Only time posts are edited/deleted is for spam. I've been here posting and mostly lurking for....7 years now? I've seen one individual get banned for being continually destructive and aggressive towards the forum and its members. That's about it. A lot of extremely intelligent and experienced people here. It seems like almost every new person gets butthurt at least once. But if they listen to what they're being told they come out more knowledgeable in the end.

Yeah that's what I'm finding all over the interwebs. There are so many damn holsters out there too... This is just really far down my priority list. But when I move back to the city in May It'll probably move itself up.

I should say I've never concealed carry, only open. And I don't imagine i'll be doing it that often to be honest, which is partly why I'm considering the 3.5" range instead of 3.25".

Any of you guys have experience with carrying HK's? Got my CPL a few months ago and I want to replace my G17 with a suitable carry gun. I was looking at P2000 and USPC.

99% of the issues in this hobby are user error.

Any reason you're thinking of getting a more powerful amp?

samsnowboardjump by frostedflakejake1, on Flickr

For power I would recommend copper cabling. I can see an argument for the benefits when a cable is carrying 200+ amps. But specifically for signal from amp to sub, I don't think it matters. I've used copper, silver coated copper, and CCA and i've noticed no difference. Hell, the maths simple enough. 5ft of 10awg copper = .004925 ohms. 5ft of 10awg aluminum= .007823 ohms. Regrettably I still haven't looked back to see what how much power you're running. Lets say you're amp is outputting 2000 watts to a perfect 1 ohm load. The pure copper wire would have ~10 watts of loss. The pure aluminum wire would have ~ 15.5 watts of loss. I'm not a signals guy so I can't comment on anything about signal degradation between the two but I would imagine it wouldn't matter; especially for a substage.

No, but since the distance between your amp and sub is so short it doesn't matter. conductivity by frostedflakejake1, on Flickr

Bologna. I bet you could go to those people and switch it back to CCA and if you didn't tell them they wouldn't notice a damn thing.

That's kinda relative. The issue is that the human ear is pretty complicated and everyone has one that's a little bit different. It also depends what the 3db increase is from. At higher volumes the increase in DB will be less distinguishable. Meaning that going from 120 to 123 will be more noticeable than going from 160 to 163. From what I hear most people notice a difference but that it's not too significant. But I dunno whether or not that's placebo effect...

By definition, a 3db increase would be a double of power, and vice versa. Assuming the speaker has uniform efficiency across the power band, doubling the power to the speaker should yield a 3db increase in output. So I didn't read all the pages here, but if you're running currently running 500 watts then yes, a 500 watt increase of power will yield a maximum of a 3db increase.

To get felony probation you must be convicted of a felony, therefore he is a felon unfortunately. Took me about 45 seconds worth of googling......

One good reason to use a greenlee punch. It can also sometimes be difficult to get a drill along with a bit to physically fit in a location to allow drilling.