Frostedflakejake

Yeah shizzzon i saw that, it's not cracked through, just a scratch on top. I mean yeah, i noticed that, but it didn't seem to be major but then again, i have no idea what i'm looking like in there...

There isn't a problem with the speaker wire or woofer impedance, or if there is, it's not what's making it go into protect mode seeing that it goes into protect without any speaker wire in it. And I didn't check those power and grounds, but i did hook up some 6 gauge ground and power wires i have set up that work on my component amp. I hooked them up just to check if my ground was bad or the power wire was bad. The 6 gauge works fine on my component amp but still sends the sundown into protect. Thanks!

So I bought a SAZ-3000d from db-r last december. I finally got to hook it up today! It turned on, sub wouldn't move, then the amp would go into protect. The btl was wired at one Ohm. So after reading the manual, I disconnected the speaker wire and the amp did fine, didn't go into protect mode. So I re-did the wiring on the sub but before dragging it out to the car, I decided to test the amp. Turned it on and the Blue power light came on and about one second later it switched over to protect. Needless to say I was astonished. The wiring is done as so: From battery plug in of amp to 300amp ANL fuse, from fuse to + battery, from + battery to another 300 amp ANL fuse, from that fuse to battery isolater, from isolater to alternator (260 amp Iraggi), both the amp and the battery (Shuriken BT-120) share a frame ground in the back. So, according to the manual, when the protection LED light illuminates: 1) Check shorts on speaker wire 2) Remove speaker wires and reset the amplifier. If the protection LED still comes on, then the amplifier is faulty. As i'm sure this is true, is there any other reason that the protection light would come on? I'm not sure what it means by resetting the amplifier, but I disconnected the ground and positive leads and reconnected them. With no speaker inputs, the amplifier still goes straight into protection. Please, all feed back is welcomed. I would like to get opinions before I contact Jacob about user error, malfunctioning merchandise, repair, warranty, ect. Thanks!! Oh, and i attached some pictures of the amps insides. I really have NO clue what to look for in the range of defects.

okay! one last question. So those male terminals on my terminal box are TINY. Finding some female terminals that will fit onto those males and have 8 gauge input will be nearly impossible. I've tried several places already.... ideas? Can i run both sets of wires to the bolts?

so definitely DON'T do coil to coil? And then do one positive and negative from the coils to the male terminals on my terminal box and then the other set of coils to the bolts on my terminal box?

How do you do directly to amp with a mono block? Just put both positives from the coils into one positive on the amp? And where do you have the wires... just coming out of the port??? And here are pictures of everything involved. No way in hell another one is fitting in there!!!

Already put terminals in my box, but thanks. And my question isn't in regard to connecting coils to the box, sorry if that was unclear. My question is connecting coil to coil. I'll go in the garage and post some pics to make things clear. thanks anyways!

Here's the story. I have an 18'' BTL dual 2 ohm. Obviously I want to run it at 1 ohm. I have 8 gauge wiring to connect the terminals in parallel, but how do I do that? I know how to wire it, but I don't know how to fit the wires in the terminals. I can fit one, but not two. Now I know tons of people on here have BTL's so someone PLEASE help. Should I connect some of the 8 gauge to a ring terminal? 2 prong terminal? It just doesn't seem like either of those options would be tight inside the BTL's terminals. Thanks to all who respond

So after hooking things up i found that i was short of speaker cable by five feet. I ran down to Mickey Shorr to see what they had. They gave me about 12 feet of 8 gauge power wire for five bucks. so it's a pretty simple question actually, Is there any difference in speaker cable and power wire? can i use power wire as speaker wire? thanks.

not necessarily directly related, but still relevant with the whole "noob" topic. A kid thinking his prefab bandpass plexi enclosure is better than my 32hz ported enclosure. Mostly due to the fact that mine uses MDF. oh, and this is fun, same guy thinking his two 12'' sony explodes will be louder than my 18 BTL. People telling my that my Sundown is crap because it's not well known.

well, if you have the budget for a sundown GO for it for sure. Their amps are of a much higher quality than hifonics. and their numbers are on a 12v so you will most likely observe higher numbers. If i were you, i would keep my eye on www.db-r.com for a refurbished saz-3000. Well, that IS what I did but our set-ups are completely different. If I were you, i would sell that HiFonics and get the sundown. But the most important question is what you're budget is.

F.Y.I. 2274 watts is definitely not the max of a BTL. so don't worry about that at all

how were your old tweeters hooked up?

ha! good story =]

just get a couple extra feet of the speaker wire just in case, it will only cost a couple extra bucks and it's better than being frustrated as hell and waiting to get more. also makes you flexible incase you decide to change location of the amp

Simple question, i'm thinking about installing my component set today (finally) and i'm about to check to see if i can make a baffle board or if i need to do rings. either way, i know i have to make the MDF waterproof and i planned on using resin. Now, when making my box, i was told not to put the speaker in the box for 24 hours because the fumes from silicon sealants are known to eat away speakers. Is this true with resin? I ask because i would really like to get them running today, but i also don't want to ruin $250 worth of speakers. Looking for a quick response!! Either way i'm letting the Resin cure, but as soon as it does, will it be safe for speakers?? Thanks to all!

wow, 4runner, that looks pretty damn good if you ask me!!

ahhh i remember the day my BTL arrived. such a glorious and joyous moment. good luck man! i hope your build goes quicker than mine! ha. i almost got that dust cap... i regret not getting it now that i see it!

update!! The ring terminals are now on their way! Thanks to bill over at knukonceptz!

i just used house paint... it worked fine.

i would love to go to some Michigan shows. I've never even really checked out a high budget system in person! I would like to see some serious stuff! keep this thread updated please!

i have no clue. ha. but thats what the original link was. he also said he knows about Iraggi and DC power, but he was just curious about that one. Maybe he answered his own question?

ha what happened? he used to have a good thread here... well he was asking about this alt 88-93 Blazer/Jimmy 4.3/5.7L 200 amp version for 164.99 for his blazer. I read his post right after he made it.

Yeah i'm feeling that. such a shitty weekend

Ha yeah the tires are for a 1953 Dodge M37 military truck. 39's. I would need about... 8 inches of lift to fit those puppies on. Onto the audio world!! I don't have much time today due to finals coming up, so my hope is to get the BTL into the box! Simple really... but it sucks because it can't stay in the box cause i'm not leaving it out in the garage... thats just asking for a screwdriver through the cone. So hopefully that will get done today and i can upload some pics!