vladd

Just to clarify, it's not pointless, just provides no advantage over a 150A fuse, while a 150A fuse does provide advantages over a 300A fuse....allowing less unwanted current through the circuit. Yeah my wording was a little strong. I just meant that the 300 amp fuse is not REALLY doing its job as it may allow the amplifier to exceed its limits while staying fully intact, thus defeating the purpose of fusing at all. The 300A or main fuse won't help the amp from exceeding its limits, that's what the amp fuses are for. The fuse at the battery simply serves as a fuse closest to the source of the electricity in an attempt to eliminate the chance of a short circuit. The difference is that there is zero need for this fuse to be larger than the circuit it's on dictates.

Just to clarify, it's not pointless, just provides no advantage over a 150A fuse, while a 150A fuse does provide advantages over a 300A fuse....allowing less unwanted current through the circuit.

What mids are you using? That's kinda low on the upper end for my taste(1250) but could definitely be appropriate depending on your speaker. Also keep in mind that the steepest slope is not always the best. You may find that a more shallow slope and lower/higher crossover point is much better (on the low or high end). Are you able to adjust your tweet crossover? For the upper end on your mids you may find it easier to get your initial point with no tweet at all, so you can tell when the mids break up easier, especially if you have a hearty tweet.

By that logic are you saying the size of your wire has nothing to do with amp power? No, he's saying that the fuse is there to protect the wire from meltdown. It doesn't matter what amp is connected to the other side, the wire itself has a certain ampacity that if exceeded will become a fire hazard. This is what the fuse is there to protect against. So you fuse for the wire. The wire should be properly sized for the amp, and the fuse should be properly sized for the wire. The one caveat I'll add is in the instance where the amplifier does not have any onboard fusing you would want to select a fuse size that will protect both the wire and the amplifier, but you would want to go with the most conservative of the two. This is what I was pointing out. If A depends on B and B depends on C then A does depend on C. When I fuse I fuse the circuit, not the wire. If I know my circuit shouldn't pull more than 10A i'm going to fuse for that regardless of how big the wire is, so when the circuit pulls more than it should for any reason I'm aware (like a body screw that manages to penetrate the wire insulation or old insulation cracking and rain causing a short). Headroom may be good when choosing an amp but I don't like it with my fuses, that's room for trouble. Alternatively, I cannot think of a reason to fuse higher than the circuit dictates, if there is one I'm missing feel free to enlighten me.

By that logic are you saying the size of your wire has nothing to do with amp power?

P/V = I 3000W/10V = 300A 3000W/12V = 250A 3000W/14V = 214A

In my intro class's lab we made wine as well. Man that shit was nasty.

andddd to put this where I meant to put it! sushi again tonight. Had a california roll with fuck if i remember(at least tuna, avacado, crab) but it was ok. Maki roll with cooked shrimp that was very good. And a fried roll w/tune and it was fucking awful, I tried one, spit it out, and fed one to the dog. the wasabi was still strong as shit, i actually kind of like it this way

lmfao having two windows open bites me in the ass again! that post can be found in the hop soon! yellowfin = yellow top?

sushi again tonight. Had a california roll with fuck if i remember(at least tuna, avacado, crab) but it was ok. Maki roll with cooked shrimp that was very good. And a fried roll w/tune and it was fucking awful, I tried one, spit it out, and fed one to the dog. the wasabi was still strong as shit, i actually kind of like it this way.

everyone pray for rain for me! (if it rains I don't have to work but still get paid). The radar says the chance is good.

that's why they're called kick pods!

I would send him back your bottom dollar and explain why it's infinitely better than anything he'll get for $50.

that made me lol

Now it's hidden! repetitive and catchy! Sorry to the people that have forgotten about it.

and just deleted them, there has to be a line, i'll be happy to draw it for them.

i went ahead and accepted them but put them in a group, i'm still debating deleting them.

so my sister, mother, and brother (in that order) have requested me as a friend on facebook and I've declined all three. Since when was facebook a place for family? that would be almost as bad as them checking me out on SSA!

gracias R2

any bird people here? This hawk just landed outside the window and I managed to snap a few pics before he took back off. Anyone identify him? BTW i'm in Punta Gorda, FL

extremely straightforward, of course there's 30million different ways to go about it. For large flat surfaces like valve covers I usually prefer steel wool. For complex wheels (like honeycombs) i prefer to paint the bitches because you'll spend at least a day per wheel.

the basic process is strip the old clear coat (i wouldn't be surprised if the corrosion you're seeing is the old clear coat, it can get pretty awful. steps #2-30 - sand. Start with the roughest grit necessary and step up to smoother and smoother until you achieve the finish you want. I wouldn't recommend anything but your hand for sanding, but once you get up to about 1000 grit or higher you can start polishing. You'll need an abrasive compound (there's tons) turtle wax rubbing compound will usually suffice if you've done a good enough job sanding. this is not going to be a quick and easy job, as Ryan said, it's probably going to inspire you to fork over the cash to get someone else to do it. it will be easier if the wheels are mostly flat. Also some wheels use rather porous aluminum (dodge daytona '90) and you soon realize that you're unable to get a nice finish because of the pits and it's better to leave them hazy and dull.

It was amusing while I did some paperwork. The jokes were pretty tough though. The Ryan Dunn joke was too soon. Actually it would never be time for that joke. It's a roast, there is no line.

sean that's awesome!

What kind and what finish? Most oem wheels have a clear coat that is 90% of the problem. The next question is what do you desire as an end result? Most wheels have nice enough aluminum to be polished to a near chrome finish if you want to invest the time.