I have the CS60.4 and I am buying the sundown Friday.

My car is only 70 amps with its alternator.. Can it fully support both of those amps?

eh.. put them in and see. you haven't told us what car, how old it is or what ohm load everything will be running at.

Those all play pretty key factors on whether or not the alt will be able to cope.

Oh.

It will be a 2002 Honda Civic SI.

The CS60.4 will be running '07 Type R Comps in front and coax in back both @ 4ohms (60wrmsx4).

The substage will be two 10'' TC-7 subs dual 4's wired to 1ohm.

I'm gonna go with no.

You'll have heavy dimming and chances are the alt is going to fail pretty quick.

What electrical upgrades have you looked into doing? At the very least you're going to need to do the Big 3 and an upgraded under the hood battery.

A better plan would be to do both of those and then buy a high outout alternator somewhere in the neighborhood of 150a.

The only thing I was thinking was....

http://www.lowcostbatteries.com/product_p/34r.htm

The only thing I was thinking was....

http://www.lowcostbatteries.com/product_p/34r.htm

You should look into a deep cycle battery instead of a starting battery. A lot of users here swear by Kinetik batteries.

http://www.kinetikaudio.com/hc1400.asp

You also need to complete the Big 3 upgrade

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...p?showtopic=200

I would run at least 1/0awg to a distro in the rear of your car and then split it to 4awg to each amp.

current alternator (70)amps supply voltage (13.8) total system power (535)watts RMS

current alternator (70)amps supply voltage (14.4) total system power (558)watts RMS

The only thing I was thinking was....

http://www.lowcostbatteries.com/product_p/34r.htm

You should look into a deep cycle battery instead of a starting battery. A lot of users here swear by Kinetik batteries.

http://www.kinetikaudio.com/hc1400.asp

You also need to complete the Big 3 upgrade

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...p?showtopic=200

I would run at least 1/0awg to a distro in the rear of your car and then split it to 4awg to each amp.

I cant shell out that much for a battery.

As for the big 3, I honestly dont think I could do it correctly lol.

The only thing I was thinking was....

http://www.lowcostbatteries.com/product_p/34r.htm

You should look into a deep cycle battery instead of a starting battery. A lot of users here swear by Kinetik batteries.

http://www.kinetikaudio.com/hc1400.asp

You also need to complete the Big 3 upgrade

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...p?showtopic=200

I would run at least 1/0awg to a distro in the rear of your car and then split it to 4awg to each amp.

I cant shell out that much for a battery.

As for the big 3, I honestly dont think I could do it correctly lol.

w/o the right electrical system, you wont use your amps to thier full potential. I upgraded to an odyssey batt, and my voltage became much more stable. im still downsizing my system tho. 65a alt sux

The only thing I was thinking was....

http://www.lowcostbatteries.com/product_p/34r.htm

You should look into a deep cycle battery instead of a starting battery. A lot of users here swear by Kinetik batteries.

http://www.kinetikaudio.com/hc1400.asp

You also need to complete the Big 3 upgrade

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...p?showtopic=200

I would run at least 1/0awg to a distro in the rear of your car and then split it to 4awg to each amp.

I cant shell out that much for a battery.

As for the big 3, I honestly dont think I could do it correctly lol.

I'd wait until you can shell out that much then. Or find a yellow top used.

why the hesitation to do the Big 3? Its no different than hooking up an amp, and it sounds like you'll be doing that yourself.

If you don't plan for this now, all you're doing is shooting yourself in the foot. The alt will fail eventually, and I can guarantee a new one is going to be more expensive than the battery.

your alternator will support a maximum of:

current alternator (70)amps supply voltage (13.8) total system power (535)watts RMS

current alternator (70)amps supply voltage (14.4) total system power (558)watts RMS

Batteries after this point will only be a temp fix without a HO alternator.

your alternator will support a maximum of:

current alternator (70)amps supply voltage (13.8) total system power (535)watts RMS

current alternator (70)amps supply voltage (14.4) total system power (558)watts RMS

Batteries after this point will only be a temp fix without a HO alternator.

I don't even want to know how bad I am beating the piss out of my battery.

Total rms wattage available on 14.4 volts (unlimited current) is a little over 4300 watts.

Actual current available: 85 ampere alt (30% = 25 amperes) actual voltage at rest (car on 13.9)....

My system is living but an alt is in my very near future with a kinetik hc2400

i was told that kinetik batteries are not deep cycle batteries.

i was told that kinetik batteries are not deep cycle batteries.

Correct, they are AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries.

Read their FAQ for more info on why most people consider them better.

your alternator will support a maximum of:

current alternator (70)amps supply voltage (13.8) total system power (535)watts RMS

current alternator (70)amps supply voltage (14.4) total system power (558)watts RMS

Batteries after this point will only be a temp fix without a HO alternator.

I don't even want to know how bad I am beating the piss out of my battery.

Total rms wattage available on 14.4 volts (unlimited current) is a little over 4300 watts.

Actual current available: 85 ampere alt (30% = 25 amperes) actual voltage at rest (car on 13.9)....

My system is living but an alt is in my very near future with a kinetik hc2400

Well at 4300RMS at 13.9v you need a 312amp alternator. At 14.4v you need a 303amp alternator. heh ummm ya your killing your system

Edited July 19, 200718 yr by crunch1

your alternator will support a maximum of:

current alternator (70)amps supply voltage (13.8) total system power (535)watts RMS

current alternator (70)amps supply voltage (14.4) total system power (558)watts RMS

Batteries after this point will only be a temp fix without a HO alternator.

I don't even want to know how bad I am beating the piss out of my battery.

Total rms wattage available on 14.4 volts (unlimited current) is a little over 4300 watts.

Actual current available: 85 ampere alt (30% = 25 amperes) actual voltage at rest (car on 13.9)....

My system is living but an alt is in my very near future with a kinetik hc2400

Well at 4300RMS at 13.9v you need a 312amp alternator. At 14.4v you need a 303amp alternator. heh ummm ya your killing your system

I am killing my car as well. Some of my exhaust heat shielding has come undone from my under body, my mirror has fallen off soo many times I have given up, and my shifter no matter how many times I tighten the allen bolt will come off every 2-3 days. Ohh and need I say that my batteries static with the car off is 12.2 volts and is only 3 months old. I can stall my car with a test tone at full tilt, so yea my car is dying.

LOL damn man stalling your car with a test tone. Sounds like you should buy a five gallon bucket of lock tite and hose down your car to keep it from shaking apart.

velcro is your friend Audio lol

Crunch quick test since you like to crunch numbers where i don't

Saz-1500D 2 of them @ 1ohm 14 volts what is the amp draw

test 2

saz-3000D @ 1ohm 14 volts what's the amp draw ?

thanks buddy

I'd wait until you can shell out that much then. Or find a yellow top used.

why the hesitation to do the Big 3? Its no different than hooking up an amp, and it sounds like you'll be doing that yourself.

If you don't plan for this now, all you're doing is shooting yourself in the foot. The alt will fail eventually, and I can guarantee a new one is going to be more expensive than the battery.

Well on my ephatch.com forum someone said this.. and he knows his stuff

Yellow-top for deep cycling and car-off use

Red-top- for big instantaneous current and fast, turning over large high compression engines, etc. Don't like to be deep cycled.

It's a toss-up for car audio, if you like to sit and jam with the car off then the answer is un-disputably the yellow-top. For daily use I recommend the red-top due to it's uber low internal resistance, HUGE peak current capacity, etc.

so i was thinking the red top would do fine for what i need.

I'd wait until you can shell out that much then. Or find a yellow top used.

why the hesitation to do the Big 3? Its no different than hooking up an amp, and it sounds like you'll be doing that yourself.

If you don't plan for this now, all you're doing is shooting yourself in the foot. The alt will fail eventually, and I can guarantee a new one is going to be more expensive than the battery.

Well on my ephatch.com forum someone said this.. and he knows his stuff

Yellow-top for deep cycling and car-off use

Red-top- for big instantaneous current and fast, turning over large high compression engines, etc. Don't like to be deep cycled.

It's a toss-up for car audio, if you like to sit and jam with the car off then the answer is un-disputably the yellow-top. For daily use I recommend the red-top due to it's uber low internal resistance, HUGE peak current capacity, etc.

so i was thinking the red top would do fine for what i need.

dont know much about batteries, but from the reading ive done, the Red top is a good starter battery, and the yellow is a good backup battery.

velcro is your friend Audio lol

Crunch quick test since you like to crunch numbers where i don't

Saz-1500D 2 of them @ 1ohm 14 volts what is the amp draw

test 2

saz-3000D @ 1ohm 14 volts what's the amp draw ?

thanks buddy

Right now it has been a combo of velcro, second skin and duct tape. Oh but the main reason why my car is still driving is my majority of listening is classical music, not rap.

I'd wait until you can shell out that much then. Or find a yellow top used.

why the hesitation to do the Big 3? Its no different than hooking up an amp, and it sounds like you'll be doing that yourself.

If you don't plan for this now, all you're doing is shooting yourself in the foot. The alt will fail eventually, and I can guarantee a new one is going to be more expensive than the battery.

Well on my ephatch.com forum someone said this.. and he knows his stuff

Yellow-top for deep cycling and car-off use

Red-top- for big instantaneous current and fast, turning over large high compression engines, etc. Don't like to be deep cycled.

It's a toss-up for car audio, if you like to sit and jam with the car off then the answer is un-disputably the yellow-top. For daily use I recommend the red-top due to it's uber low internal resistance, HUGE peak current capacity, etc.

so i was thinking the red top would do fine for what i need.

hardly.

While the red top is exactly as he put it, its not ment to have the strain of a stereo system on it constantly draining the current.

A yellow top is. A yellow top also can provide perfectly good current to turn over a V8 (so it should be fine turning over your little K20A3).

A better option, like I mentioned before is the Kinetik.

velcro is your friend Audio lol

Crunch quick test since you like to crunch numbers where i don't

Saz-1500D 2 of them @ 1ohm 14 volts what is the amp draw

test 2

saz-3000D @ 1ohm 14 volts what's the amp draw ?

thanks buddy

Didnt think I would have to take a exam to post in this thread, but beings your wanting to test me lol I will do one better how about I give you the simple equation and you track down the info on the Sundowns lol o here goes are ya ready. Watts/Volts=amps now figure in for the efficiency %

Actually crunch i know the equation I'm just so damn lazy and thought I'd try to get you to do the work damn it...

chit i might as well do

3,000 x .2 (since sundown amps are about 80% effecient) 3,600/13 (I'm lazy i hate decimals) = about a 266 amp draw.... I believe the amp draw for music is less though about 1/2 so in actuality i think you can take 266 and divide by 2 for a 133 amp draw on music and 266 on burps at full rated power on test tones I could be wrong...

Actually crunch i know the equation I'm just so damn lazy and thought I'd try to get you to do the work damn it...

chit i might as well do

3,000 x .2 (since sundown amps are about 80% effecient) 3,600/13 (I'm lazy i hate decimals) = about a 266 amp draw.... I believe the amp draw for music is less though about 1/2 so in actuality i think you can take 266 and divide by 2 for a 133 amp draw on music and 266 on burps at full rated power on test tones I could be wrong...

Ok, I'm foncused . Why do you add the 600 to 3000? If they're 80% efficient, wouldn't you subtract it? Please don't think I'm trying to be a know-it-all, because I honestly have no idea. I'm just trying to understand is all.