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Featured Replies

Posted

Hey what would you choose for the best 10" SQ sub for $75 or less? I know that's not much to work with but those are my limitations right now so that's life. I can feed it up to 800 watts RMS. It will be run sealed in an 11" cube...so like .5 ft^3. Lemme know what you guys think. Thanks.

EDIT: Go to second page....entire goal changed due to increased finances.

Edited by redrum

  • Author

i looked at those but they only had 10mm xmax....is that gonna affect performance? what about an eD 11kv.2? i can get that for 75...

You're not allowed to say the E word in here.

If you want SQ don't worry about xmax.

Have you thought about an 8" sub? that might do a little better in such a small box.

  • Author

my bad on the E word....i take it you guys hate that one.

with regards to an 8"....i was under the impression a 10" would go deeper..whats your opinion though?

in my opinion, save up your money and get a nicer driver. For that kind of money i can't think of a setup that won't leave you wanting more.

my bad on the E word....i take it you guys hate that one.

with regards to an 8"....i was under the impression a 10" would go deeper..whats your opinion though?

Completely driver dependent on what "will go lower". Also box dependant.

  • Author

i might be able to get a good deal on a TC 10" OEM...what do you guys think of this driver?

  • Author

they'd be more likely to unglue from like 1100-1200 watts than from 800 right? or would they unglue either way you go? what in particular causes something like that to happen, and how easy is it to fix? i really dont wanna deal with TC Sounds cust. svc.......ive seen enough stuff about them to get scared away real quick.

Try some 10" phoenix gold rsds they is suppose to be great in a .5 cuft box. It will not take 800 watts though. If you can do 1 cuft I would grab 2. I am planning on running 3 sealed off of 1000+ watts.

Edited by allenzo

800w is really a lot for a $75 driver, even if you bought it used. The Mach is a stellar deal for the price but the power you are talking about could create issues if you aren't smart about it. When properly setup it will be fine though.

  • Author

im not talking about the money anymore....ive got that all squared away...im specifically referring to the TC OEM 10" driver as i can get a real good deal on it....how would the wattage affect how the surround, etc, and what do you guys think of the driver?

it probably has next to nothing to do with power if the surround is coming unglued. The surround/cone joint sees stress regardless of how much power. Now if you're nearing mechanical limits that stress is far greater, but with 800W if it's going to separate, it'll separate.

i hear great things about jacobs new subs and how nice the sq is. they are like 100 i believe here on teamssaudio.com's store.

should work nicely with 250 - 300 going to them. only 200 prob needed to get them going nicely i think.

Mike-

i recommend the OEM 10" i just got mine and its amazing, seems structurally sound and the only reason i could think that the surround would come loose from the cone is the glue not adhering to the fiberglass as well as it should. As for the performance, i ran a 15" AB DX in a ported and put this in a ported and by ear its not as loud, but somehow its building more pressure to the point of its shaking my hat off my head where the DX could barely move my wipers.

  • Author

i ended up buying the oem 10 before i heard any of the glue stuff....i just wanted to see what everyone would have to say without knowing i had bought it....regardless, i think i might turn around and sell it when i get it.....i sold an amp today so ive upped my budget entirely. i dont feel confident in the sub holding up and i dont want to deal with TC's customer service if it breaks...ive heard they're pretty atrocious.

i'm now looking to spend up to 300ish bucks on a dual 10 setup. they have to be 10's due to size restraints on the box. ive come up with a few ideas for 10's on my own, but please pitch in anything else that you can think of. i dont know if all of these are SQ oriented or SPL oriented so if im mistaken on any of them plz let me know. my goal was to avoid name brand stuff....JL, Arc, Kicker, Phoenix Gold, Memphis, Arc, etc. also im willing to go with a single 10 setup too. i dont need something that can be heard blocks away. just some tight SQ.

AA Assassin 10" x2

AA Arsenal 10" x2 (is there enough difference to merit another 100 bucks between this and the assassins?)

SoundSplinter RL-I 10" x2

Fi Q 10" (1 Sub Only due to price)

SSA Icon 10" (1 Sub Only due to price)

Please pitch in more ideas if you have any and let me know what you think. Thanks, and sorry to completely change the direction of this thread.

some1's gotta have some opinions here

if you can divy out enough space to fit two 10's in the proper sized enclosures then you will have enough room to run a single 15 in a sealed box. it'll have that nice punchy bass you seek from the 10's, go lower, and probably be just as loud for less $ value. (thats my opinion) if you have roughly 300 bucks there are plenty of good 15's on the market. THe FI Q 15 is $279. same price for an RL-P 15. go big or go home :P lol. these are probably your better options in the 15 inch market.

someone else may have some ideas with smaller drivers, but not me :P

  • Author

sry but i cant fit anything more than 10s.....deal is that im buying 2 subs but they're gonna be getting transferred between different enclosures. one enclosure will be able to hold a single 10 only....itll be an 11 or 12" cube. that has to fit in a tight spot. the other doesnt have to fit in a tight spot. it will hold both subs without any problems. so 10s are necessary.

i was just thinkin about some stuff today.....the subs dont have to go extremely low. i listen to a lot of classic rock and country. rap is behind both of those in terms of how much time i spend listening to it. so a sub thats not a low end monster is fine with me. something that goes higher up is actually fine too because of that. do any of those subs fill that role? regardless....what should i look at for SQ with a 10?

lastly, due to an amp rearrangement....i will have 1600 watts at 1 ohm on tap for power. so no more 800 watt thingy.

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