hi, i have 2 questions: one how can a person determine how many and which kind of battery's a person needs ( like CCA Ah, etc) for around 2.5k rms and also do you have to fuse a ground run?

Edited September 28, 200717 yr by SouthPole1989

hi, i have 2 questions: one how can a person determine how many and which kind of battery ( like CCA Ah, etc) and also do you have to fuse a ground run?

You don't need to fuse a ground, no need for it. And you didn't really finish your battery question.

Four around 2.5k RMS? What alt, amps and speakers will you be running?

2 sax 100.2 @ 4 ohm

sax100.2 @ 2 ohm

Saz3000d @ 2 ohm for 2 12" Icon

190 amp alt ( biggest alt)

big 3 done in 1/0

Something around the size and capacity of a Kinetic HC1400 should be fine.

Have you beefed up your starting battery at all? You might want to just consider putting a somewhat largish battery under the hood instead of running two (one front, one rear).

i honestly don't have that much room. i have 8 inch's high be for it hits the hood and i can't lower the battery tray because the tranny's valve body is right below it the biggest for the starting battery is a powermaster d1200 that i could find. but in the morning i will post all the measure meants that i have for under the hood. kinetik says to put a hc1400 up front then 2 hc1400 in the back.

Edited September 28, 200717 yr by SouthPole1989

i honestly don't have that much room. i have 8 inch's high be for it hits the hood and i can't lower the battery tray because the tranny's valve body is right below it the biggest for the starting battery is a powermaster d1200 that i could find. but in the morning i will post all the measure meants that i have for under the hood. kinetik says to put a hc1400 up front then 2 hc1400 in the back.

Of course they do. They want to sell batteries. They also don't know about your new alt.

true. but when looking for batterys for cars with systems how can you tell if it is enough.

You can never really tell (lotta variables). You just hope you have enough, and if you don't, then you buy more.

Buy a better starting battery. Something just a little better than what you have under there now.. and then something of HC1400 standards and you should be set.

ok cool. which would make a better starting battery optima 34/78 or a powermaster d1200? also would it be bad to get the starter battery then like in a month get the second battery with out running an isolator.

Edited September 28, 200717 yr by SouthPole1989

An isolator is only truly useful if you leave the car off for long periods of time (see, weeks). Or.. if you plan on running the system with the car off.

Other than that, on a daily driven vehicle, I wouldn't worry about an Iso. As far as what's going under the hood, both of those batts have proven performance, but I would just vote for whichever is cheapest. It's just to better maintain the voltage at that point, and give you a little more powa up front. Your real stabalizer comes with the rear/secondary battery.

thanks for the good info john, ive had the same thoughts on secondary batteries but this is pretty helpful.

SouthPole.... what are you running off the third 100.2 @ 2 ohm?

re audio XXX midrange/ midbass driver. ( i am doing active)

re audio XXX midrange/ midbass driver. ( i am doing active)

i was just curious as to the reason for wanting to run your front stage drivers at 2 ohm but i see thats the only configuration the XXX's come with.

Good luck with the setup!

should i do 2 postive runsof 1/0 from front to back since i can't fit that big of a battery of front.

You should be ok with just a single run of 0/1 gauge, it won't hurt to add another one but I don't think it's going to be necessary. The battery in the rear will be supplying almost all the poweer needed for your system, the front will just give it a little extra in case you run low.